Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Magazine

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Vol. 18 No. 8 -- March 2005

Tourmaline In Every Color, At Every Price

Innovations from Swiss Brands Show A highly Promising Year Ahead for the Watch Industry

Innovations from Swiss Brands Show A highly Promising Year Ahead for the Watch Industry
The first new models announced for BASELWORLD 2005 show that, with their combination movation and quality, the Swiss brands have everything it takes to stay right on course for success. There is an almost palpable vitality exuded both by the technical developments and by the design and exteriors of the models. Diversity is the order of the day. The Swiss brands have a vast selection of creations on offer, responding to discerning wishes and needs. Already, however, a number of key points are in evidence amongst this broad range of creations which are set to feature among the trends for 2005. Subtly decorated, with components in yellow or pink gold - or black metal even - the movements of sophisticated timepieces reveal their true splendour to the experienced eye. At times, a sapphire crystal positioned on the case-middle allows them to be glimpsed directly, while the tourbillons or double tourbillons show off their fascinating and increasingly prized mechanics in expert fashion.

1 CHOPARD - Collection Xtravaganza a horizontal oval dial, graced with three large Roman numerals: Chopard highlights geometiy and the sparkle of precious stones in a charming and fanciful jewellery-watch. Case in 18K white gold, paved with 195 white diamonds (5.33 cts). Dial paved with 359 diamonds (2.10 cts), Roman numerals set with 111 sapphires (0.93 cts).Strap in Pink Acqualino (sea snake leather) 18k white gold buckle set with 46 white diamonds (0.74 ct). 2 ALFEX - Smartline The new wristwatch from ALFEX, looks casual., fJfjyint., xfjismtiiuial. - with ijist a- timrJi of playfulness that perfectly rounds off the chic Bohemian impression. Charms, some tiny, some large, strung along a delicate bracelet of polished stainless steel, to dangle lightly from the wrist. The watch's brightly colored dial, available in red, green, purple, bright blue, and pink, glows in the middle - a splash of colour contrasting with the silvery glitter surrounding it. 3 CHOPARD - Bague "Collection Haute Joaillerie" Chopard sublimates diamonds in the new entirely gem-set Haute Joaillerie ring. The large emerald-cut diamond with its exceptional sparkle and clarity, is mounted in accordance to the "Venetian mirror" technique, surrounded by 206 small white brilliant-cut diamonds. 4 CHOPARD - Collier "Collection Haute Joaillerie" Offering a magical sublimation of femininity, this chain necklace is a delicate, voluptuous and sparkling ornament inlSK (750) white gold Pear-cut E-S/1 diamond (50.09 cts) surround set with diamonds. Indian-style gem-set chain (6.28 cts) Cadence of navette-cut diamonds. The art and the passion of its designer Caroline Gruosi- Scheufele combine in this piece to reveal the singular nature of each gem.
The "vintage" trend is unchecked in both movements and exteriors. Vintage calibres are taking on new life in elegant models, to truly delight the connoisseur. Designs that have made their mark in the past are being realigned to current tastes, while technical advances ensure that these reconquered treasures of earlier days come hand in hand with new developments; innovative modules embellish their vintage movements, while shapes and volumes are remodelled in a contemporary spirit. And a number of limited editions, moreover, highlight the feel of rarity, of something ixceptional, or celebrate nemorable events.
	CORUM - Golden Bridge In celebration of CORUM's 50th Anniversary, a new rendition of a revolutionary concept introduced 25 years ago is brought back to life, the world-renowned Golden Bridge. Originally created in 1980, the new Golden Bridge is a modern interpretation of the instant classic with an entirely re-engineered movement that captures the purity and emotions of the original. The unique miniature baguette movement with golden bridges was developed in cooperation with the Swiss manufacturer Voucher in Fleurier, Switzerland, a company known in watchmaking circles as one of the finest design engineers of complex high-precision movements. The Golden Bridge comes in several yellow, pink or white gold variations with a matching gold movement, or in platinum with a pink gold movement. It is fitted with a crocodile leather strap with an 18 karat gold buckle or an 18 karat gold bracelet. There are also brilliant-set jewellery versions available. A 50th Anniversary Special Limited Edition is offered in 50 watches in platinum, 50 in yellow gold, 50 in pink gold, and 50 in white gold, each numbered 1 to 50.
	HALDIMANN - HI Flying Constituting a remarkable technical and aesthetic success, this model with central flying tourbillon houses a remarkable movement developed and manufactured by watch designer Beat Haldimann. The dial features a lyre-shaped tourbillon carriage and the case is crafted by hand in (750) I8K yellow, pink or white gold, or platinum with domed sapphire crystal and sapphire back. Black, silver or rhodium-plated dial and hand-sewn alligator leather strap with gold pin buckle or folding clasp.
	DEWITT ALMA COLLECTION - Utopia Utopia salutes today's woman, who is constantly concerned about organising the a of her time, a woman who is able to keep ha appointments. It offers her a new way of reading the day of the month using two different retrograde hands. One at the top of the dial shows the double digits; the other at the bottom of the dial marks the single digits. This "fancy" feature is a complexity that tout a talented team of Swiss designers many ham of work to develop, an exclusive module tlial, combined with an automatic winding mechanical movement, lets the double digits and single digits of the date be displayed separately.
	CONCORD SARATOGA ® SR The original Concord Saratoga ® stands as one of the most innovative and successful sport luxury timepieces ever created. Taking its inspiration from the original design, today's updated Saratoga reveals a new streamlined sophistication and casual elegance that transcend fashion. Distinguished by Swiss hand-craftsmanship and precision, Saratoga features a signature eight-sided bezel and a sleekly sculpted woven-link bracelet that offers an exceptionally comfortable fit. Its unique, patented crown protector latches shut, assuring distinctive style and water resistance. The case is crafted in solid stainless steel or steel finished with a dramatic black PVD finish while its bezel is brilliant with diamonds. The white mother-of-pearl dial is detailed with three chronograph subdials and diamond markers.
The innovations revel in a i/onderful mix of types, Bold narriages of colour and mother-)f-pearl dials adorn masculine ind feminine models indiscriminately. Yellow gold, already very much in evidence last year, has conquered both cases and bracelets on classical and highly contemporary timepieces alike. Technology is making a move into the feminine world, as is confirmed by the growing number of ladies watches, at times bedecked with sparkling, precious settings, which boast a chronograph or a striking movement. In 2005, time is more precious than ever before. To make sure that not even a single second is lost, wherever the wearer happens to be, dials display a second, and even a third, time zone. The date figures majestically in big windows or on highly legible counters. And, to ensure reliable operation of the watch overtime, the power reserve now holds pride of place, offering an enhanced performance derived from new inventions. The materials used on the sports models have been selected with an eye to comfort and lightness. Titanium and silicone feature alongside rubber, which pairs up once again with metal on structured and textured bracelets.
	HARRY WINSTON - Excenter Biretro a magnificent combination of the highest jeweller and watchmaker craftsmanship (in itsd iamond-set version), the new Excenter Biretro from Harry Winston, the fourth model in this line, is an eloquent illustration of a concept dear to the House: "Rare Diamonds & Rare Movements". It powerfully expresses the brand values in the most beautiful possible way: peerless jewellery and watchmaking know-how, teamed with a constant quest for innovation. Don't be deceived by the relatively small size of its case - 34 mm — since it houses nothing less than a world first: a movement combining retrograde indications of the seconds and the day of the week (at 8 o 'clock and 4 o'clock respectively), with the off-centred hour and minute display (at 12 'clock), while the date appears in a window at 6 o 'clock. The beauty and originality of the rose gold rotor weight specially developed for Harry Winston also deserve a special mention: graced with the "HW" brand signature visible through a cut-out, it is hand-bevelled and features diamond-polished toothing, the better to reflect the light. The case, crafted exclusively in white gold, is entirely set with diamonds from bezel to sides and through to the lugs. While the crown is adorned with a diamond, the dial comes in two ver-sions: genuine white or black mother-of-pearl with diamond-set white gold brackets and engine-turned counters.
	CHOPARD - Montre "Collection Haute Joaillerie" Like each Haute Joaillerie watch by Chopard, this entirely hand-crafted model testifies to a level of know-how verging on perfection. An exceptional creation for those wishing to combine the functionality of a timepiece with the pleasure of a jewel. 18K (750) white gold case, bezel and lugs entirely set with diamonds. Sapphire crystal. Dial in the left-hand model: engine-turned, 4 Arabic numerals. Right-hand model: mother-of-pearl, paved with 70 diamonds, Roman numerals. Black satin strap with 1SK (750) white gold clasp set with 16 diamonds.
	HERMES - Clipper Diver Watch Designed by Henri d'Origny and launched by Hermes in 1981, the Clipper watch is immediately recognisable because of its porthole-shaped bezel. The Clipper family includes the diver chronograph, a model which, for 2005, sports a new rubber strap in blue or Hermes red. These innovatively designed straps consist of eight independent rubber links covering steel inserts. The same materials also cover the revolving, unidirectional bezel. The hands, numerals and dots surrounding them are covered with white Super-LumiNova®. The three counters stand out against the polished lacquered dial: the seconds counter is at 6 o'clock and the tenths-of-seconds counter at 2 o'clock, while at 10 o 'clock there is either an hour counter (men's model) or a minute counter (ladies' model). The date is at 4 o'clock.
The fashion models, offered in pasfel shades, celebrate spring with a touch of mischievousness and a welcome freshness. Lightness is also the key feature in innovations combining a watch and jewel with chain bracelets boasting highly original links, and adorned with pendants to signify a relaxed chic. All this technical and aesthetic creativity augurs well for Swiss watchmaking, following the excellent year it already experienced in 2004. Exports of Swiss watches have reached a new high in value terms, exceeding the CHF 11 billion mark for the first time and achieving the highest values ever recorded in the months of Octoberand November.
	JEAN-MAIRET & GILLMAN - Horn Mundi This precious timepiece by Jean-Mairet & Gillman stands out for more than just its undeniable elegance; its indication of the time in various parts of the world and its alarm function are particularly appreciable when travelling for business or pleasure. 41 mm case in 18K (750) pink gold. Black lacquered dial, rhodium-plated city surface with date window at 6 o'clock. Hand-sewn crocodile leather strap with gold folding clasp.
	REYNAUD GENEVE - Sunshine SUNSHINE is both a jewellery watch distinguished by its refined elegance, and a truly unique model thanks to its originality and its innovative shape. This daring association makes this watch creation an entrancingly rare object that is bound to appeal to those in search of the exceptional.	SUNSHINE WHITE & BLACK DIAMONDS Limited to 18 pieces.
	SUNSHINE "MISS LIBERTY" Case set with 232 brilliant-cut diamonds I Dial paved with 69 brilliant-cut diamonds. Pin buckle carrying the "R" brand logo and set with 20 brilliant-cut diamonds. Moire satin strap in a choice of several colours Model available with white, black diamonds. or pink, blue, yellow sapphire, or rubies. Limited to 9 pieces.
	MONDAINE - Glacier Express The "official Swiss railways watch" comes in a special 2005 edition christened "Glacier Express". The exclusive gift box contains aset of postcards as well as a piece of rock crystal from the Swiss Alps. Case in polished steel comes in two sizes (26 mm and 35 mm). Domed mineral glass. White dial with raised hour markers.Embossed leather strap with folding clasp.
	TISSOT - Secret Love With this exquisitely delicate jewellery-watch, Tissot reinterprets the ancient theme of the woven ornament. The precious bracelet, composed of interwoven metal wires, opens to reveal the face of the watch. The cover may be adorned with a personalised engraving, a secret declaration or a token of affection beyond the passing of time. Case in 750 (18K) yellow gold fitted with a personalised cover. Sapphire crystal. Silvered, sunburst effect dial. Yellow gold or yellow gold/steel bracelet; or leather strap
	MOVADO - Rondiro® Movado Rondiro® is an alluring women's timepiece defined by smooth, circular shapes and soft, sensuous curves. Grafted of stainless steel, its unique bracelet is composed of polished C-links that lie elegantly on the wrist like fine jewellery. The Rondiro's round stainless steel case is available with a black Museum dial, or with a white mother-of-pearl Museum dial encircled by a bezel brilliant with diamonds. Both dials are detailed with silvertone dauphine hands and concave dot at 12 o'clock.
	M-WATCH - Glitter M-Watch places luxury and glamour within reach of every budget with this new extremely refined model, enhanced by the shimmering radiance of mother-of-pearl and strass by way of diamonds. Polished steel case, bezel set with Swarovski crystal strass. Mother-of-pearl dial with transferred Arabic numerals. Black or white crocodile-look leather strap.
	I LOUIS ERARD - Heritage 92256 This Louis Erard watch from the Heritage line is particularly appealing thanks to its extremely innovative design: all the functions are united on an off-centred subdial at 3 o'clock. Strap in crocodile-look leather.
	TISSOT PEARL FISHERS COLLECTION A new innovation for Tissot this year comes with the Tissot Pearl Fishers Collection, offering a range of teardrop pendant watches on a gold chain or leather cord adorned with fine Oriental freshwater pearls. A truly individual timepiece as unique as the person who wears it. The Tissot Pearl Fishers collection comprises two separate lines. The first line, available in all ivory and grey, ivory and pink and light grey, or ivory and gold, is a gold chain link bracelet of thirty pearl drops with, as the largest pearl of all, a gold watch pendant with mother of pearl dial, which can be detached from the bracelet, enabling the bracelet to be worn alone. The second model comprises a single leather cord which, as if thrown into the water returns dotted with ten pearl drops, the number of completeness, each on a golden strand. The cord can be worn as a double bracelet with the pendant pearl watch or as a single cord around the neck, offering resolutely modern dimension to an item of traditional beauty.

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