While it is relatively unknown to the general gemstone trade, the most important show of all for the the high -end houses is quite possibly the Biennale des Antiquaries in Paris, which provides them a chance to showcase what they do before a very sophisticated audience. Now in its 27th edition, the 2014 Biennale was held in September in the Grand Palais, which was tranformed into the gardens of Palace of Versailles.

     Fifteen established and emerging jewellers participated, including Bulgari, Chanel, Chaumet, Dior, Piaget and Cartier, which had one of the largest stands at the show.

     Returning to the Bienna after a 12-year absence was Lawrence Graff, who brought with him a brooch featuring two of word's most celebrated diamonds. Called the Royal Sar of Pari, it included the Graff Sunflower, a 107.46 carat Fancy Yellow cushion-cut diamond, which is framed by a fan of pear and brilliant-cut diamonds, and the 160.09 carat Graff Perfection, which is suspended below.

      Among the designers on display was Wallace Chan, who is the first Chinese jeweller ever to be invited to the Biennales. Among the pieces that Chan showed this year in Paris was the Gabriella Rose necklace, which features what is described as the world's largest flawless violet sapphire. Weighting 169.39 carats, Chan says it symbolized femininity, harmony and tranqulity

 

     Also for the first time, two different models will wear the bras and body pieces. Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio will walk the runway in them for the 2014 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show.

     Mouaward also designed last year's Fantasy bra and matching belt, which were adorned with more than 4,200 precious gems, including rubies diamonds, and yellow sapphires. The 18 karat gold bra, valued at $10 million, also featured a 52-carat pear-shaped ruby.

   A massive blue diamond that was unearthed earlier this year at the Cullinan mine in South Africa has been sold for $27.6 million. British-based Petra Diamonds extracted the stone weighting 122.52 carats in June and has sold it to a film which will polish it. The firm's ownership structure is 15% owned by Petra, so it recives 85% of the $27.6 million sale price, meaning $23.5 million, and will also receive an additional 15% of the value of the polished diamond once it is polished and sold.

   The film that owns 85% of the cutting and polishing company and actually carries out the manufacturing wishes for its identity to remain unreported. Petra chief executive officer Johan Dippenaar said the transaction represented "excelent sales value for the rough stone"

   In Febrauary, Petra sold a 29.6 carat blue diamond from Cullnan for $25.6 million and in 2013 it sold a 25.5 carat blue diamond from cullian for $16.9 million. However, it made even more money from the sale of a white diamond from Cullinan in 2010, $35.3 million, althuough that gem was for larger : 507 carats.

     Gems and jewellery are fashion items; as well as conformingwith current fashions, they must be capable of adjusting quickly in line with thedirections that fashions are taking.

     In addition to the designs which must follow, of the release of collections which reflect the individual identities of the brands themselves, the gems and jewellery business must conform.

    Pantone, the authority on colour, has released the new colour trends for 2015. The trend for 2014, flowing as an orchid purple, or "Radiant Orchid," Is acknowledged by every category of fashion through the release of collections which show elements of this colour, letting it be seen in everyproduct line: garments, leather goods, and cosmetics.

     The 2015 colour tones will be more gentle and more mid than previously. The colour declared by Pantone as the colours for next spring are Aquamarine, Scuba Blue, Lucite Green, Classic Blue, Toasted Almond, Strawberry Ice, Tangerine, Custard, Marsala and Glacier Gray. In addition, there are the colour trends for gentlemen's fashions; Dusk Blue, Glacier Gray, Treetop, Classic Blue, Toastsed Almond, Woodbine, Sandstone, Tittanium, Marsala and Lavender Herb.

     Pantone will issue formal and full colour trends at the end of the year. Right now, Thai gem and Jewellery manufacturers should get ready and prepare designs/make new collections, to confirm with the trends - by the Gem and Jewelry information Center, the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization)

.   At an  early age every child in France encounters Charles Perrault's magical fairy tale Peau d'Ane (Donkey Skin), the story of a princess who flees her home for the forest when a strange madness grips her father following the death of her mother. Originally published in 1694, the tale was made into a movie in 1970 by Jacques Demy Starring Catherine Deneuve as the princess, and has became the inspiration behind Van Cleef & Arpels 'atest haute joiaillerie collection.

.    "We thought it was time to go back in history to discover the art, peotry,literature and architecture of the early 16th century when the beautiful castle of Chambord was commissioned," said Bos. "We wanted to give another, 21st century interpretation using our own art: exceptional stones and the magic of our workmanship, to recreate the magic and poetry of that fairy tale".

   As guests were treated to a Renaissance feast, pageant and fireworks, Jacques Demy's daughter Rosalie Varda Demy commended' "even judged agaiinst what other jewellery houses do to launch their collections in France, there has never been anything like this".

    "The scale of the event depend on how the collection has inspired us," says Geoffroy Medinger, managing director of UK, Switzerland and Italy. "We are a house that is all about creating beautiful inspiring jewellery that are not accessories but become part of people's live."

    In the Peau d' Ane collection the house recaptures every element of the story: the Princess's three voluminous gowns representing the sky, the moon and the sun are re-imagined as exquisite diamond brooches seemingly painted with turquoise, tourmalines anf green garnets (for the sky), blue and mauve tanzanite and sapphires (for the moon) and yellow tourmalines and sapphires (for the sun). The LIlac Fairy's ethereal dress and wand are tranformed into jewels, as is the enchanting castl, which displays a spellbinding oval-cut Brazilian emerald weighting over 39 carats, surrounded by blueand purple sapphires.

    Several of the designs are reminiscent of Van Cleef & Arpels' pretty ballerina figures as favoured by the Duchess of Cornwall. "A lot of our clients are art collectors and appreciate the artistry of our work," explains Medinger. "Many of the pieces have been sold from the gouaches (drawing) before the craftsmen started on them"

    The house is naturally very discreet about the identity of this elite group of clients from Europe, the Middle East America and Japan. The Monaco Royal fimily are known devotes but the only other names revealed are from the past such as the Dutchess of Windsor, the Shar of Iran, Maria Callas and Elizabeth Taylor. Their names all come to light inVincent Meylan's fascinating book Van Cleef & Arpels Traesures and Legends, which explores the stories behind some of their bespoke commissions.

    While exclusive jewellery launches are fairly recent, these historical figures would surely have been as captivated by the Peau d'Ane collection. As Rosalie Varda Demy says; "if my father had been here he would have been very pleased with what Van Cleef & Arpels have done, how they have taken his film to another place," Pictures courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels.

    Christie's fall auction of Magnificent Jewels will be held on 11 November at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva. Featuring over 390 lots, the auction includes top quality coloured and colourless diamonds, jewels of historical provenance, exceptionally rare gemstones, natural pearls and an important group of Jewels by JAR. The auction is estimated to fetch in excess of US$80 million.

    The auction is led by A Bulgari Masterpiece, spectacular pair of pearl-shaped coloured diamond ear - pendants, set with a6.95 carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond and a 6.79 carat Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond which carry a pre - sale estimate of US$12,000,000-15,000,000

    Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Christie's Jewelry, commended : "With one of the large stand most importants sappphires in the world from private hands, A Bulgari Masterpiece, Iconic Cartier jewels from the Duchess of Windsor, natural pearls that were once in the collection of Baroness Edouard de Rothschild, and Empress Eugennie's Feuillesde Groseillier brooch, Christie's Geneva is pround to present the fine stand best jewels in the world on November 11,"

    The sale will include the fourth largest faceted sapphire in the world, the Blue Belle of Asia, a cushion shaped Ceylon sapphire of 392.52 carats (estamate : US$7,000,000-10,000,000). This exceptional gem was discovered in 1926 at Pelmadula, Ratnapura ('The City of Gems') in Ceylon and was sold to British motor magnate Lord Nuffield in 1937. The reasons behind his purchase of the Blue Belle of Asia have remained a mystery, however, it was rumoured that the sapphire was to be presented to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, on her Coronation Day on 12 May 1937.

    An extremely rare ruby will also be offered for sale on November 11th : the Queen of Burma, an impressive Burmese ruby of 23.66 carats, mounted by Cartier (US$5,500,000-7,000,000). Purchased at Cartier in London in November 1937 by his Highness the Maharao of Cutch (1866-1942), the present example highlights once again the relationship between the European jeweller and Indian Royaltyf that time, The Queen of Burma combines all the most sought - after quallities in a ruby; an attractive vivid pinkish red colour, an excellent putty, an impressive size and the finesh origin.

Jewels by JAR
    Seven jewels by JAR will be offered at auction in Geneva, some of which were recently on displayat the 'Jewels by JAR' exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New york. The Defining characteristic of Joel Arthur Rosenthal's work is his superior craftmanship evocative of the qualiry of jewels in the 18th and 19th centuries. Bold in proportion and often resulting in sculptural objects, his propensity for incorporating unusual gemstones into his creations give the works a vivid sense of movement and light. This was the first time that the Metropolian Museum exhibited works of a contemporarry jewellery designer. Amongst the Remarkable group of jewels offered for sale are the 'Gardenia' ring, fomerly in the Collection of Ellen Barklin (US$330,000-390,000), The sculpted gold Parrot Tulip cuff (US$210,000-310,000) and a pair of diamond 'String' ear pendants (US$140,000-200,000)