Last issues
Vol. 25 No. 4  - NOVEMBER  2011
   
Queen Elizabeth II Diamond Jubilee display
2012 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Award Winners
Jewels at Christie's London in November
 
   
     
  Queen Elizabeth II Diamond Jubilee display  
 
    
     The staterooms of Buckingham Palace in London will open to visitors next summer with a special exhibition of diamonds. Called Diamonds: a Jubilee Celebration, it one of the events marking Queen Elizabeth's 60 years on the throne. Visitors will see an unprecedented display of a number of personal jewels inherited by the queen or acquired during her reign.

     The exhibition will show the many ways in which diamonds have been used by British monarchs over the last 200 years. The exhibition will reveal how many of these extraordinary stones have been recut or incorporated into new settings during their history.

     The display will run from August 1 to September 30, with extra dates to be added.
 
    
     The 60th anniversary display during Buckingham Palace's summer opening to the public next year will feature Queen Victoria's Fringe Brooch, made in 1856 for the only British monarch to celebrate a Diamond Jubilee. The emerald and diamond brooch, designed to be worn along the top of the fashionably low-cut bodices of the mid-19th century, was last seen in public when the Queen Mother wore it to her daughter's coronation in 1953.

     
      Other jewellery items will include a miniature crown worn by Victoria for her official Diamond Jubilee portrait in 1897 which is set with 1,187 diamonds.

     The Williamson Diamond Brooch will be on exhibition as part of the Queen's Diamond Jubilee in 2012. The pin features a 23.6 carat pink diamond, which was found in Tanzania by Canadian geologist, John Williamson. The original 54 carat rough diamond was given to Princess Elizabeth in 1947 and was later cut into a round brilliant. Cartier designed the pin in the shape of an alpine rose with the pink gem as the centrepiece.
 
A) Queen Elizabeth II
B) An alpine rose, the pin features a remarkable 23.6 carat pink diamond. Williamson Diamond Brooch and the Queen's Diamond Jubilee
C) Among more modern pieces in the exhibition are the South Africa Necklacem, presented to Princess Elizabeth on her 21st birthday in 1947.
D) Diamond crown. Diamonds: A Jubilee Celebration. The Royal Collection © 2011, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.
E) Snuff box made for King Frederick the Great of Prussia, c.1770-75. Diamonds: A Jubilee Celebration. The Royal Collection © 2011, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.
 
 
 
 
2012 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Award Winners
 
 
     
      Winners and other entries of the 2012 American Gem Trade Association Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards were on show last month. The annual event, now in its 28th year, helps many entrants - not just winners - earn industry-wide recognition.

     The American Gem Trade Association received 454 entries this year - a slight increase from 2010's 450. According to AGTA president Doug Hucker, trends among this year's entries included Ethiopian opal, red stones, and less oxidized metal and rough diamond petals. "In Hong Kong, there was a lot of red, too,"he observes. "From red spinel to tourmaline, to quality ruby - either estate or Windsor rubies - re is hot," Also of note: an increase in the number of two-finger rings.
 
 
  1. Best use of Colour:Deirdre Featherstone, Featherstone design platinum earrings featuring removable opal enhancers (15.64 cts. t.w.) accented with blue zircons (3.27 cts. t.w.), tanzanites (3.53 cts. t.w.), Paraiba tourmalines (0.40 cts. t.w.), and diamonds (5.79 cts. t.w.)
2-3. Best of show: Tode Reed, Todd Reed Inc. Palladium and 22k yellow gold locket featuring blue moonstones, grey diamonds (24.51 cts. t.w.), blue sapphires (17.34 cts. t.w.) and white diamonds (5.10 cts. t.w.), opening to reveal a 76.03 ct. moldavite Buddha image.
 
x       Judges for the 2011 competition included klaus Burgel, master goldsmith; Sylvain CHervin of Carvin French; Cindy Edelstein of the Jewelers Resource Bureau; Patricia Faber of Aaron Faber Gallery; and Clay Zava of Zava Master Cuts.

     Award winners will be deted during the AGTA Dinner Dance and Awards Gala on Feb. 4 in Tucson, Arizona, during the 2012 AGTA GemFair Tucson, which runs January 31-February 5.
x
   
  4) Best use of Palladium and colour: Dennis de Jonghe Palladium pendent featuring a 16.39 ct. Aquamarine accented with a 2.09 ct. Moonstone, Diamonds (.26 ctw) and Pearls.
5) Best use of Pearls : Anil Maloo, Baggins Inc. 18K white gold and black rhodium-plated earrings encrusted with light cognac diamonds (8.16 cts. t.w.) and 13.3 mm cultured South Seas pearls
6) Classical - 1st Place: James Currens, J.W. Currens Inc. Ring in platinum featuring a 14.25 ct. unheated ruby cabochon accented with diamonds (7.97 cts. t.w)
7) Best use of Platinum and Colour: Michael Endlich, Pave Fine Jewelry Platinum ring featuring a 19.05 ct. cushion-cut aquamarine with pave-set diamonds (0.41 ct. t.w.).
8) Evening Wear -1 st Place: Ion Ionescu Design Inc. Pillow for dreaming ring in Palladium and black rhodium featuring a 36 ct. carved labradorite accented with Paraiba tourmalines (1.50 cts. t.w.)
 
   
 
     
  Jewels at Christie's London in November    
 
     Christie’s sale of important Jewels on Tuesday 29 November 2011 features over 400 stellar lots, with Royal and historic jewels offered from The Property of HM Queen Elena of Italy and Her Descendants, classic Art Deco, Art Nouveau and signed jewels by Boivin, Bvlgari, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. With estimates ranging from €1,000 to €250,000, the sale is expected to realise in the region of €5 million.

 
   
  A) An attractive emerald and diamond bracelet, mounted by Cartier of foliate design, composed of a series of fourteen rectangular-shaped emeralds to the wide band mounted with rectangular, square and pear-shaped diamonds, accented by baguette-cut diamond detail, 1950s, 20.5 cm long. US$120,000-150,000
B) An Art Deco diamond bracelet, by Cartier Designed as seven graduated circular-cut diamonds weighting 6.24, 4.77, 4.03, 3.97, 3.33, 3.31 and 3.01 carats each, to the rectangular-shaped openwork panel band mounted with circular and baguette-cut diamonds, each joined by a pierced diamond coller buckle-link, 1930s, 185 cm long, several small diamonds deficent. US$76,000-110,000
C) An early 20th century diamond bracelet, by Alfredo Ravasco of floral design, the wide band decorated with a pierced diamond-set foliate motif, mounted with six pierced flowerheads with circular-cut diamond centres to the rose-cut diamond petals, the border enhanced by a pierced wavy line, early 1920s, 23.0 cm long. US$38,000-53,000
 
 
    The Property of HM Queen Elena of Italy and Her Descendants comprises 27 lots (lot 207-233) and is led by a finely pierced 1920s diamond bracelet, with a stunning floral motif, by Alfredo Ravasco. Ravasco created jewellery for the Royal House of Savoy, including presentation brooches for the Princess of Piedmont, later Queen Maria Jose of Italy. He was one of the few Italian jewellers to exhibit at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.

    Always a highlight of the sale, the regular Cartier section features over 50 lots, from jewels and cufflinks to watches, clocks and accessories. Jewellery highlights include a bold Art Deco panelled bracelet set with large circular cut diamonds, which epitomises the strong geometric design so sought after from this period, an attractive emerald and diamond bracelet mounted by Cartier in the 1950s, and a modern 'C' necklace, which is sold to benefit Iran's Children's charity.

    The finesse of Cartier cufflinks is demonstrated by a pair which is diamond-set and semi-circular in design; those featured in a refined emerald dress-set and a pair of emerald semi-circular gold cufflinks from the Property of HM Queen Elena of Italy and Her Descendants. Providing a veritable treasure trove of options for the discerning entleman, the selection of cufflinks-by other houses - continues throughout the sale, and includes an antique pair made of rock crystal and decorated with game bird paintings.
 
 
 
  D) An Art Nouveau diamond, pearl and plique a jour enamel pendant/brooch Depicting a sculpted gold classical maiden tipping an amphora of diamond-set 'water' into a similarly-set stream inset within an enamelled landscape surround, with circular-cut diamond floral detail accented by enamel, suspending an articulated diamond collet and pearl drop, circa 1905, 8.1 cm long US$120,000-150,000.
E) A diamond-set powder compact, by cartier Of textured rectangular form, the case mounted with a brilliant-cut diamond thumbpiece, opening to reveal a bevelled mirror with powder compartment, circa 1960, 5.8 cm wide, 8.cm long, with French assay marks for gold, with fitted leather outer sleeve. US$4,600-7,500.
F) A 'Mystery-set' ruby, emerald and diamond 'Deux Fleurs' clip brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels The twin flowerheads mounted with mystery-set ruy petals and brilliant-cut diamond pistils to the emerald leaves with baguette-cut diamond detal, 7.1 cm long, with French assay marks for gold, in Van Cleef & Arpels grey suede case. US$120,000-180,000.
G) Russia's Treasure of Diamonds and Precious Stones, Fersman Catalogue of the Russian crown jewels, The People's Commissariant of Finances, Moscow, 1925, parts I-IV, folio, 100 plates unbound as issued in original wrappers, original porfolio. US$31,000-45,000.
H) A 'Mystery-set' sapphire and diamond 'campanule' brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels The three calyxes mounted with mystery-set sapphires and baguette-cut diamonds, to the diamond-set stems, 5.4 cm high,with French assay marks for gold, in Van Cleef & Arpels grey suede case. US$110,000-150,000.
 
   
 
 

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