Vol. 17  No. 4  --   November 2003
     
 Art Deco Jewellery on Show at Antwerp Diamond Museum
 AGTA Now Goes After Blue Sapphires
 
 
   
   
       
 

The Antwerp Diamond Museum inaugurated an exhibition about Art Deco on September 26. This is the first time that diamond jewellery from the art deco period (1920-1939), deriving from Belgain private collections has gone on show alongside top quality pieces by Belgain and French jewellery houses. Among the Belgain jewellers were Wolfers and Massaux and the French jewellery houses of Cartier, Boucheron, Fouquet and Laloche Frres were the ones who flourished during this fascinating time.

The 1920 's were an exciting time to live in. Fortunes were being made and spent with ease thanks to the prodigious industrial growth of the era. Money began to be concentrated in new hands, especially bankers and industrialists and society started to take on a whole new look. Also after World War I, which was a time of hardship, people wanted luxury and beauty, comfort and freedom.

Women were gaining emancipation. Short dresses (not minis), skirts and trousers were now being worn and they were now following new role models, the first real Hollywood stars like Mary Pickford, Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich among others. Glamourous frocks and costly jewels were the order of the day.

Diamonds were also in plentiful supply due to the discovery of the South African mines at the end of the nineteenth century. It was acceptable to flaunt one ’s wealth and the noveaux riche ruled the roost. It was a new and exciting era and design reflected it too. The flowing natural lines of Art Nouveaux were relegated to the past and instead clean lines, linear and geometric forms and contrasting colours helds sway.

 
 
Pair of Earrings, Fouquet -,Paris
Circa 1920-1925
 
 
 
 
Brooch, Belgain, Circa 1935
 
   
 


Clip, Massaux- Antwerp, circa 1935

These new stylistic elements were very much in evidence at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes which took place in Paris in 1925. It was this exhibition that lent its name to the new style : Art Deco.

The most popular items of art deco Jewellery for the daytime were the brooch and the (double) clip. Belgain firms are represented in the exhibition mainly by monochrome examples from the later art deco period (1930 - 1939), the so called " white period ". There are also many jewels in vivid constrasting colours from the early art deco period as well, which were inspired by Egyptian, Chinese and Japanese influences.

The Jewellery collection is supplemented by visual material and accessories such as an evening bag by Janesich, a powder compact and lipstick holder, a cigarette case by Cartier, etc. One of the highlights of the exhibitionis an original photo book of art deco designs from which customers made their choices. It derives from the House Massaux , which later merged with Emile Anthony and Wolfers Frères to become ANTHONY (Antwerp). All the photographs are arranged according to category and all the designs are numbered.

Accompanying it is the Massaux Design Book, which is a collage of design and sketches. Some of the sketches correspond exactly to the items that appear in the photo book. Both books are on display together with design sketches from the Wolfers Frères archives in Brussels.

 

Brooch, Boucheron - Paris, circa 1925

Cigarette holder, Cartier - Paris, circa 1920-1925
 

The Jewellery exhibition is accompanied by an exhibition that encompasses the entire era between the two World Wars and presents a picture of what life was like in Belgium at the time. The exhibit covers such diverse area like the Red Star Cruise Line, the 1930 World exhibition that was held at Kiel in Antwerp, the Imalso tunnels, which were the first to connect the right and left banks of the River Schelde as well as the graphic art of the period. It was a time for experimentation, a time for the celebration of modernism and all its symbols like trains, ships, aerodynamic aircraft and of course, the skyscraper.

 
 
 

    (1) Brooch-pendant with hidden watch, Lang - Paris     (2)  Pendant with hidden watch, Thibauli - Paris
    (3) Jabot - Brooch - inspired by the Orient, France        (4)  Pearl necklace with pendant shaped like a tassel



 
   

The American Gem Traders Association (AGTA) has just released an update regarding blue sapphires that are apparently from Sri Lanka and which appear to be treated by a new high-temperature heating technique. The report on the website says that the exact mechanism of this treatment remains uncertain, but a number of stones in sizes ranging from 2 to 17 cts. have been seen over the past several months. The major identifying feature of these stones is a blue core surrounded by a diffuse colorless or near colorless skin. This is best observed by immersion in methylene iodide (di-iodomethane) with a diffuse white plastic filter between the immersion cell and light source in the microscope.

The website however makes it a point to note that all stones placed table down in an immersion cell will show some lightening of colour at the girdle, since the stone is thinner at the girdle but the report goes on to say that the stones treated by this new process show a distinctive colourless rim that penetrates well into the gem, unlike the normal gradual lightening of colour towards the girdle in untreated stones. AGTA also says that tests do not reveal the presence of beryllium and that it is working with members of the Sri Lankan industry.
 
     
     

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