Old issues
Vol. 19  No. 3 - October  2005
  Swarovski Fashion Rocks for the Prince's Trust to Glitz Up Monaco
  Crowning Glories of Royal and Historic Jewels to be...
Russian Imperial Traesure and Collection of Prestigious...
     
     
Swarovski Fashion Rocks for the Prince's Trust to Glitz Up Monaco
     
     One of the most glamorous social events of the years is due to take place on October 17, In the Grimaldi forum in Monaco. The world famous playground off the rich and famous, the principality will glitter even more than usual as Swarovski Fashion Rocks for the Prices's Trust event to celebrate the icons of fashion and music white simultaneously raising much needed funds for the worthwhile cause of supporting youth in need for The Prince's Trust (HRH the Prince of Wales).

           Nadja Swarovski, Vice President of International Communications for Swarovski said, "Swarovski is delighted to support this incredible event that not only celebrates the icons of fashion and music, but also raises much needed funds for the worthwhile cause of supporfina youth in need. As Swarovski crystals have been an integral part of both the fashion and music industries since the beginning of the last century, from the early creations of Chanel and Dior, to album covers and tours by Tina Turner and Beyonca, this event has particular relevance to Swarovski."
      1) Swarovski mini Ray 2) Stephen Webster pendant for Swarovski 3) Diamond Nepal Ring.

     World renowned model turned West-End star Jerry Hall will host the show during which the most talented international musicians and artistes will be paired with the world's most influential and directional fashion designers. This unique, dynamic combination will be staged as a spectacular extravaganza, quite unlike any fashion show held thus far. The show will be choreographed by one of the most talented show producers in the world, Alex de Betak, who had already made his claim to international fame on both sides of the Atlantic with his catwalk productions on the fashion frontlines for Dior, John Galliano, Donna Karan, Hussein Chalayan, and Viktor & Rolf.

          The show will bring together an incredible artistic fusion between designers of the calibre of Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Cavalli, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Viktor & Rolf, Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Burberry and Alexander McQueen with stars of the music world like Bon Jovi, Mariah Carey, Kasabian, Earth Wind and Fire, Craig David, Skin, Roisin Murphy, Jamie Cullum, The Kills and Amerie. A host of celebrities including Sharon and Kelly Osbourne will put in an appearance on the night of the show.
     
     The evening will begin with a champagne reception at the Grimaldi Forum followed by the spectacular Swarovski Fashion Rocks show itself. More than one tonne of Swarovski crystals have been used to create the ultimate stage design: a crystal catwalk, set against a draped crystal background, revelling in glamour and light. The evening's splendid conclusion will be a magnificent dinner by culinary legend French chef Alain Ducasse for two thousand guests who will be entertained by Jamie Cullum. The dramatic dinner setting, designed by Tord Boontje, features crystal ice branch chandeliers specially created for this evening of enchantment.

          To mark this momentous occasion as well as to raise the much needed funds for The Prince's Trust, Swarovski invited each of the designers to create a one of a kind crystal extravaganza, or to donate a vintage design that will be auctioned in aid of The Prince's Trust at The Prince's Trust Hedge Fund Gala Dinner on November 23 in the presence of HRH Prince Charles in London. The designers who will participate in creating items for the auction are Armani, Prada, Cavalli, Tommy Hillfiger, Calvin Klein, Julien Macdonald, Viktor & Rolf, Versace, Vivienne Westwood, and Burberry. Renowned photographer David Sljiper has photographed Liberty Ross wearing the dramatic creations that are destined to come under the hammer at the Gala Dinner.
     Swarovski has also created special products inspired by the Swarovski Fashion Rocks concept. Mini Ray is a limited edition, multi faceted crystal objet d'art that refracts light and colour with an extraordinary mirror or mercury effect 'satin' coating - a Fashion Rocks version of the humble paperweight. The Diamond Nepal Ring, designed by Daniel Swarovski Paris exclusively for this social event is an exquisite rock of a ring that displays Swarovski's commitment to innovation. Here crystal is used as a sculptable material, teamed with a diamond. It is the first time that a diamond (2.55mm) has been set in crystal, thanks to a revolutionary new technique called pre setting developed at Swarovski's research facility in Austria. It allows for diamonds and gemstones to be set into materials like wood, crystal, plastic and even fossils that were previously thought to be thoroughly incompatible with these precious stones. The ring combines the look of fine jewellery with a bold fashion edge, and comes in four colours - champagne, jet, crystal clear, and black diamond. 

         Then there is the Stephen Webster Pendant. Fine jewellery designer Stephen Webster is a superstar of sorts. He has collaborated with DTC sightholders, South Sea pearl producers and among the lay public is best known perhaps for having designed Madonna and Guy Ritchie's wedding bands. In terms of attention grabbing design Stephen Webster just doesn't know how to disappoint. For Swarovski Fashion Rocks, he has come up with a marvellous pendant in a gothic design that will be available in a limited edition of just 40 pieces. The pendant, in what is known as the "Navette" shape, is a mix of Swarovski crystal and synthetic jet pave cubic zirconia stone.
     
 
    Swarovski has always been something of a legend itself when it comes to crystal. In 1895, during the Belle Epoque era, its famous "Tyrolean cut" stones became all the rage when they were used by the much sought after royal dressmaker Charles Frederick Worth, who is acknowledged as being the father of couture. His creations were worn by Empress Eugenie.

          In the 1920's Jazz Age, leading couturiers like Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli began to explore the endless light filled possibilities of crystal in fashion and jewellery. Soon crystal flowed from cabaret to couture and Swarovski" kept pace with a tempting repertoire of crystal jewellery stones and beads.

          By 1931, crystal couture was all the rage and leading embroidery atelier Maison Lesage interpreted couturier's visions using Swarovski's newly developed and innovative products for trimmings on cocktail dresses, shoes, belts, bridal gowns, extra vagant evening wear and cabaret costumes. The first innovation was a ready made band of crystal stones set into metal or plastic. Swarovski worked hand in hand with the fashion industry, always strengthening its ties to couture. During this period Elsa Schiaparelli visited the Swarovski factory in Wattens, Austria to explore the possibility of using crystal in fashion jewellery.
     
     In 1955, in close collaboration with Christian Dior, Swarovski created the famous Aurora Borealis stone -a crystal shot through with glinting, rainbow coloured light. The Aurora Borealis was a massive success, one of the most distinctive ingredients of 1950's style, a milestone Swarovski product that has maintained its versatility and popularity even till the present time.

          In 1956, it was the bridal jewellery from "Tosca", which famed opera star Maria Callas wore at the Metropolitan Opera in New York in 1956. The ornate, elaborate pieces have countless white crystal stones that capture the light and reflect it in all the colours of the rainbow.

          In 1962, Swarovski was back in the news when Marilyn Monroe wore the "Happy Birthday Mr. President" gown designed by Jean Louis, which sparkled with more than 10,000 Swarovski crystals. In 1975, Swarovski unveiled 'its 'not fix technique, for permanently fixing crystals to glamour for the masses and bringing a new level of excitement to everyday casual clothes.

         In the 1980's designers like Christian Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld and Valentine piled crystal onto the catwalks and sparked a resurgence in fake costume jewellery that became one of the wittiest and most forceful fashion expressions of that decade.
     
    In 1998, Swarovski launched its famous Crystal Tattoo, transferring the glitter from cloth to skin. Alexander McQueen introduced his exclusive custom design at his fashion show in New York.

         In 2000, Swarovski was back centre stage adorning the lavish sets of the Oscar winning film Moulin Rouge and ornamenting its tras delicious star Nicole Kidman's costumes.

         Australian sensation Kylie Minogue's 2005 Showgirl tour acintillated and seduced Yrr& audience with show stopping costumes for the star and her dancers all sparkling with Swarovski crystals. And with the ceaseless innovation that carries on at its factory in Wattens, which produces more than a hundred million crystals every working day, the Swarovski legend lives on.
Crowning Glories of Royal and Historic Jewels to be Highlight of Chrislie's Magnificent Jewels Sale in Geneva
 
    Christie's Magnificent Jewels Sale in Geneva is one of the most important events on the calendar of any serious collector of important jewellery items and this November, the highlight of the auction will be the Crowning Glories of Royal and Historic Jewels both old and new and n/ill include one of the world's most magnificent natural pearls -La Re'gente. La Re'gente is an exceptionally big historic pearl from the French Crown Jewels and is the fifth largest natural pearl known to exist. It was presented by Emperor Napoleon I (1769-1821) to his second wife Marie-Louise in 1811, and was originally set in a tiara.

The highlight of Christie's Magnificent Jewels Sale , this crown contains more than 1000 carats of white and yellow diamonds. The centre stone alone weighs 45.27 carats.
     
    Once part of the French Crown Jewels, this highly important egg shaped pearl weighs 302.68 grains. In 1853, Emperor Napoleon III (1808-1873) ordered the pearl to be taken out of the tiara and mounted into a corsage as a wedding present to his future Empress and bride Eugenie de Montijo. In 1887, when the French Crown Jewels were sold at a public auction in Paris, the Administration of State Properties gave it the name La Regente. It was purchased for resale by Faberge of St. Petersburg for Princess Zenaide Youssoupov (1861 -1939), heir to a fabulous Russian fortune. She often wore it as a pendant to a pearl sautoir or as a hair ornament surmounting the smaller La Pelegrina pearl (which was formerly part of the Spanish Crown Jewels and sold by Christies Geneva in 1987). Princess Youssoupov was the mother of Felix Youssoupov who became famous for his involvement in the murder of Grigo/i Rasputin in 1916 just before the-Russian Revolution that toppled the monarchy and heraldedmthe-era of communism. The pearl was sold by Christie's Geneva in May 1988 when it fetched $860,000. The present estimated price for La Regente is between $500,000-800,000.
   
    The pearl is part of a fantastic collection epitomising luxury and splendour. The collection also includes a superb modern natural pearl necklace of two parts, suspending a grand sapphire, diamond and pearl breast-piece covering the entire bodice, which was created to set off La Regente at its centre. This unique jewel includes more than 2,500 carats of pearls as well as 1,000 carats of diamonds and sapphires and is estimated at $1,500,000-2,000,000.

         Another highlight of the collection is one of the most imposing diamond crowns ever to be sold at auction. This impressive example of modern jewellery is set with no less than 1,000 carats of white and yellow diamonds. Nine diamonds each weigh over 20 carats and the central stone is 45,27 carats. There are also another 100 carats of rubies and over 40 drop shaped pearls, reflecting an exuberance and opulence that seems to come right out of an Arabian Nights fantasy. Such grandness is estimated at a mere $3,600,000-5,200,000.    ( LA Regente   ,   Empress Siss's Tiara )
    Adding to the historic items on offer is a tiara that was formerly the property of Austrian Empress Sissi's favourite daughter. This exquisite diamond and pearl tiara was created by Kochert, Imperial jewellers to the Austrian court in 1913 for Archduchess Marie-Valerie, daughter of Empress Elisabeth of Bavaria (1837-1898) nicknamed "Sissi", Marie-Valerie, who was the Empress's favourite child flatly refused to be part of a dynastic engagement and chose to marry for love instead. Her beloved was her close cousin Franz Salvator, Archduke of Austria-Tuscany and together they had ten children. An original drawing and photograph of the tiara still survives in the Kochert archives. The tiara is estimated at $40,000-60,000.

         What is a Magnificent Jewels sale without an imposing diamond? Included in the auction is an exception round D colour diamond weighing 50.00 carats estimated at $2,000,000-2,500,000. Adding to the rarity of the size and colour of the diamond is the early twentieth century style of cutting that placed emphasis on maximising the brilliance of the stone.

         Christie's sale of Magnificent Jewels will be held on November 16 at the Hotel Richemond in Geneva and will comprise of approximately 350 diamond and gem set jewels of all periods, ranging in price from just a few thousand dollars to serious money like more than $4 million, Other highlights include a rare Art Deco Tutti Frutti bracelet by Cartier circa 1930 that is estimated at $200,000-400,000; an elegant diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1950 estimated at $200,000-300,000; and a pair of coloured diamond earrings by JAR estimated at $40,000-60,000.
Russian Imperial Treasure and Collection of Prestigious Jewels to be Highlights of Sotheby's Geneva Auction
 
One of the most historically important jewels to surface in the market in recent years will be up for auction at Sotheby's Geneva on November 17, 2005. It is a diamond necklace from the collection of the ill fated Russian Imperial family and it will be the star attraction of the Magnificent Jewels sale in Geneva, where it is expected to fetch between CHF1,500,000 -2,500,000 ($ 1,176,000-1,960,000).

This magnificent diamind neckalce with detachable bow clasp (above & below left) is a rare surviur uj 10 century nussiun imperial and is the highlight of the sale.
What makes the stunning diamond necklace with a detachable diamond bow clasp so special is that it is a rare survivor of the 18th century, when it was generally the norm to break up old jewellery and have it remade in the latest styles of the day. Its survival in its original state therefore, outside of royal or museum collections therefore, is extraordinary to say the least. Daniela Mascetti, Head of Sotheby's jewellery department in London said, "We are delighted to have this unique opportunity to present-not only such an impressive jewel in its own right - but one that encapsulates the luxury and grandeur of the Russian royal court. Its history, survival, beauty and quality, make this a truly exceptional piece."
In 1719, Peter I (1682-1725), also known as Peter the Great, created The Russian State Diamond Fund to house a collection of jewels that would belong to the Russian State for the permanent glory of the Russian Empire. He demanded that each Emperor or Empress bequeath a certain number of pieces to the Fund during the course of their reign. The Russian Tsars were famous for the vast quantity of splendid jewellery that they accumulated and although PetertheGreatwas known to practice restraint, he nevertheless acquired many jewelsforhisconsorr, Catherine I and his daughter Elizabeth,
 
During the reign of Catherine II (1762-1796), also known as Catherine the Great, the extravagance of the Russian royals reached levels achieved neither before nor since and employing the skills of the finest French and Swiss jewellers, she added a great many pieces to the Imperial collection in the Russian State Diamond Fund,

The collection was housed in the "Diamond Room" in the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg. According to Peter the Great's decree, no piece in the collection could be sold, given away or for that matter even changed. The collection was under the protection of a "Keeper" and no jewel could leave the room without a written sealed order and then too, only in the presence of a trustee especially appointed by His Imperial Majesty.
 
It was the fear of a German invasion at the outbreak of World War I that instigated the decision to move the collection to Moscow. This was done under the supervision of a Mr. Bentichev of His Imperial Majesty's Wardrobe Service. Due to the tense atmosphere prevailing and the urgency of the task at hand, the strong boxes were carried out in such haste that no inventory was taken on the collection's departure from St. Petersburg.


When the jewels arrived in Moscow, they were confiscated and stored away until after the war. It was then that Agathon Faberge was persuaded to oversee a valuation of the jewels, a job that lasted from 1921 -1923 and each piece was photographed and each stone weighed. Acatalogue entitled "Russia'sTreasure of Diamonds and Precious Stones" was published in 1925, in Russian, English, French and German, under the supervision of Professor A. E.Fersman. This suggested that the Soviets (by then the Imperial Family had met its end and Russia had become the USSR) wished to sell the collection. The decision was later retracted, as was the catalogue. The first public exhibition of the jewels took place in Moscow the same year.

 
Soon after the publication of the catalogue, a number of the jewels were sold to a syndicate of British and American buyers whose identity is unknown. The Soviet State retained the more valuable items of the collection as part of Russia's national heritagethough. A large portion of the collection was then brought to London and offered at auction in a sale entitled "The Russian State Jewels", which was conducted by Christie Manson & Wood on March 16, 1927. The items in the sale thus went from a single unified collection that was representative of the glory of an empire to a widely dispersed number of individual pieces that would become the pride of many different collections with nothing in common to connect them.
 
Some of those items have resurfaced recently, most notably The Nuptial Crown, which was sold by Sotheby's Parke Bernet in 1966; a collection of ten flower ornaments, fashioned together to from a necklace, by the firm La Vielle Russie in New York, which sold at Sotheby's New York in April 1998; a floral brooch that sold atSotheby's in London in December 2004 and a pair of floral ornaments that sold at Sotheby's London in May 2005.

This present necklace being offered for auction in Geneva is one of the jewels offered in the 1927 auction, where it was purchased by a London jeweller who subsequently sold it to a collector and it remained in private hands ever since.
 
The necklace consists of a beautiful row of 27 large cushion shaped diamonds within a border of stylised foliate motifs close set with smaller similarly cut stones, embellished with a ribbon bow clasp, which can be worn separately. This beautiful jewel not only represents fine ornamentation but an important slice of the history of Russia's Imperial past.


 
Also on offer are some exceptional diamonds and signed pieces by some of the most prestigious jewellers including Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany, and Sterle, among others one of the highlights of which is a stunning pair of emerald and diamond bracelets that once belonged to Daisy Fellowes, reckoned to be among the most glamorous women of the twentieth century. Of American and French origin, she was born in 1890, and throughout the first half of the twentieth century, she was one of the uncrowned queens of the social scene in the western hemisphere. Daisy Fellowes was renowned for her collection of jewels as much as for her glamorous personality and the international press and fashion magazines of the day kept a watchful eye on which jewel she would wear next.
 
Daisy Fellowes patronised the leading jewellers of her time such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boivin, and Jean Schlumberger. While Sotheby's has offered jewels from her collection for sale in 1991, the pieces coming on the block at the Beau Rivage Hotel in Geneva this November have never come up for sale before. The collection is highlighted by an extremely important pair of emerald and diamond fringe bracelets by Van Cleef & Arpels, which can also be worn as a choker. Dating from 1926 and 1928, they are estimated to fetch CHF800,000- 1,000,000 ($630,000-790,000). A superb emerald and diamond necklace,
 
unsigned, but remarkable in its design and execution, isestimated at CHF200,000-250,000 ($ 160,000-200,000), and there is an excellent emerald and diamond ring attributed to Boivin, which is estimated at CHF50,000-70,000(340,000-55,000).


Other highlights of the sale include a rare and exceptional fancy vivid pink diamond weighing 10.31 carats (C H F3,750,000-5,000,000/S 3,000,000-4,000,000), an important 17.44 carat round brilliant cut D colour diamond mounted as a ring by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1970's, this exceptional stone is expected to fetch CHF700,000-l,000,000($550,000-850,000).Amagnificent Kashmir sapphire weighing 36.38 carats, set in a ring between triangular shaped diamonds is estimated at CHF315,000-385,000 ($240,000-320,000) and a fine Colombian emerald of 9.02 carats set in a ring by Van Cleef & Arpels is estimated to fetch CHF110,000-160,000 ($85,000-125,000).


There are other stunning and beautiful pieces of exquisitely Grafted jewellery that are extraordinary in terms of design and conception and that is what makes the Magnificent Jewels collection so important to the connoisseur. A selection of highlights from the forthcoming sale will be presented in New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Abu Dhabi, Singapore, Bangkok, Taipei, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Monaco before their sale in Geneva.

A pair of emerald bracelets from the Daisy Fellowes Collection. They can be joined and worn as a choker
 
 

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