Old issues
Vol. 19  No. 2  - September  2005
  Signity's Thermal Colour Fusion Process Infuses Passion in Genuine Topaz
  Shibuki
Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers Fair Has Big Plans for second Edition in June 2006
    Timeless Jewellery
     
 
Signity's Thermal Colour Fusion Process Infuses Passion in Genuine Topaz

          Signity is launching a hot new range of genuine topaz in "Passion" colours to complement the company's trend forecast for 2006. The colours include some fascinating shades like Paraiba Blue that mimics the colour of the famous Paraiba tourmaline, Infinity Blue (a slightly greyish blue), Poppy (bright orange), Pink (which is one of the most difficult colours to achieve in topaz), Buick (green/ bluish), and Complexion (light yellow/brownish) are all part of a growing line of fresh, exciting and happening colours that are all new to the gemstone Topaz.

          Generally, topaz comes out of the ground in a colourless state and is coloured different shades of blue mainly by irradiation. Signity's line of Passion Topaz are coloured through an innovative enhancement process known as Thermal Colour Fusion process (TGF™), developed by Signity's parent company Swarovski. Signity is a marketing joint venture between Swarovski and Golay.

          TGF is a special chemical heat treatment patented in Austria and has a patent pending in the United States of America. The process is stable and permanent and offers many more exciting colour possibilities for jewellery manufacturers at very affordable prices.
     
          "Special standard tests have been applied to ensure our products are fulfilling the requirements critical to manufacturers," says product manager Hubert Salvenmoser. "Unlike irradiated or electron treated products, our Passion Topaz have proven to sustain cast-in place methods

 
and cleaning processes like ultra sonic, magnetic pin, and acid bath when pre defined parameters are maintained. In addition to its durability, our treatment contains no radiation, and is therefore safe and environmentally friendly. Based on these physical properties, creating jewellery with trendy, innovative colours will be a simple and attractive task for our customers," he concludes. Certainly, Passion Topaz is going to infuse a lot of emotional expression into jewellery and is worth looking out for.
 
Shibuki
A Second Aqua Inspired Platinum Necklace Highlights the Extreme Elegance of the White Metal


          Platinum Guild International has done it again, commissioned a superlatively beautiful platinum necklace to follow in the footsteps of last year's sensation "Aqua". Featuring 158 gms of platinum and 5.52 carats of diamonds, the "Shibuki" (meaning Splash in Japanese) is the second jewel commissioned by PGI to take its inspiration from water - the very substance of life.

 
         Created by Yuka Kobayashi of the Kuwayama Corporation in Japan, the delicate strands of platinum rise up to represent water gushing out of the ocean. The use of diamonds adds to the feel of fluidity, reflecting in the light to look like brilliant droplets of water. This truly unique piece has been specially designed thus to convey platinum's values of purity, rarity and eternity.

         James Courage, CEO of PGI says, " The Platinum Guild International aims to inspire both consumers and trade and foster creativity with new, one of a kind, designs. Kuwayama was one of a number of designers from around the world we approached to
create a new masterpiece that would reinforce the association between platinum and water and we felt that their response to the brief was the most creative and the most exciting."

           Designer Yuka Kobayashi said, "It is very exciting to be involved in the platinum Aqua collection. The splashes shining from the reflected light of the sun were expressed by setting diamonds amongst the platinum to create a sense of different textures,"

           This one of a kind piece, worth US$100,000 follows on the heels of last Year's, Aafja necklace created by famed Italian designer Orlando Orlandini, which has since graced the necks of A list celebrities and magazine covers across the world.

 
A) Shibuki, a platinum necklace with diamonds is the second in the Aqua Series. It was designed by Kuwayama Corporation, Japan, for Platinum Guild International.
B) Platinum ornament with aquamarines and diamonds set in platinum, on a clip choker covered in blue goat's fur. Designed by Max Kemper, Detmold, Germany
C) Platinum necklace with bayonet clasp made of platinum and platinum pendant with aquamarine and Tahitian pearl; platinum ring with aquamarine and Tahitian pearl. Designed by Kurt Kubik, Heidelberg, Germany
D) Platinum cufflinks, each with a pink and a blue Ceylon sapphire cabochon. Design by Spranger, Schwdbisch Gmiind, Germany
A) Platinum cufflinks, each with a pink and a blue Ceylon sapphire cabochon. Design by Spranger, Schwdbisch Gmiind, Germany
B) Butterfly-shaped platinum brooches: the larger butterfly is made of platinum with 22 diamonds and 76 coloured precious stones; the two smaller butterflies are made of platinum with a mandarin garnet or an aquamarine. Designed by Georg Spreng, Heubach, Germany
C) Combined platinum brooch and platinum pendant with pink tourmaline and 42 diamonds; platinum ring with pink tourmaline and 18 diamonds. Designed by Siegfried Becker, Pforzheim, Germany
   
      However Shibuki is not the only exciting thing happening in the world of platinum jewellery. The Heinrich & Denzel manufactory created "Circolom" is certainly eye catching to say the least. A long, lavish platinum necklace with 245 diamonds, it guarantees to draw attention to the wearer's decollete. Its volume reduced platinum rings are arranged side by side in surprising proportions to create an impressive choreography.

      Then there is another attention grabbing jewel that has been designed by the Max Kemper manufactory. An elegant blue goatskin necklace set with platinum ornaments together with aquamarines and diamonds in platinum settings. It gives the word magnificent a new dimension altogether.

      For those who are less ostentatious in their taste foi jewellery, Atelier Kubic has created a platinum necklac ring on which a Tahitian pe and an aquamarine join or another in a stylish symbiosi Elements borrowed frc nature form the main desigt focus of rings, pendants arn brooches. Designer Georg Spreng's platinum butterfly brooch with 22 diamonds c coloured stones and a sma platinum butterfly with an aquamarine or mandarin g almost match nature's origi creations for delicacy and beauty and show that platii can go beyond diamonds make an excellent match for coloured stones as well.
 A) Combination platinum and yellow gold ring with a navette-cut tanzanite; platinum ring with a baguette-cut aquamarine. Designed by U.E. Ebert, Schwdbisch Gmiind, Germany
B) Platinum brooch with diamonds, Art Deco, around 1925. Design by Boucheron, Paris, through Ernst Farber, Munich, Germany
C) "Circolom" platinum necklace with 245 diamonds. Designed by Henrich & Denzel, Radolfzelt, Germany
D) "Backdrops" platinum jewellery for tl Commmendation in the 2005 Platinm Design Competition of Platinum Guih International Germany. Designed by i Armitter, Bielefeld, Germany
E) Platinum earrings with diamonds. Di by Niessing, Vreden, Gernany

Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers Fair Has Big Plans for second Edition in June 2006

     
The success of the inaugural edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers Fair this June has evoked a lot of interest among exhibitors and the gemstone booths in particular have been selling like hot cakes and are almost completely sold out. The Plenary Hall, which houses the large gold and silver jewellery booths is also almost sold out.

      Following the wonderful response that the inaugural edition got, the organisers have decided to add a special SME (Small and Medium Enterprise) Section as one of their missions when launching this event was to promote this sector of the Thai industry. Talks have been going on with the Ministry of Industry for ways to give the SME's more international exposure via the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers Fair.


      The organisers meanwhile are leaving no stone unturned to ensure that the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers Fair is being promoted at all the international industry events by exhibiting there and thus creating greater awareness of the event among the international buyers. Some of the fairs where the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers Fair will have its booth include the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, the Hong Kong Fair, VicenzaOro, BaselWorld, JA New York, the GLDA and JCK Las Vegas Shows, World Jewellery Dubai, International Jewellery Tokyo, and many more.
      Apart from exhibiting at the international trade events, the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers Fair will also be iieavily promoted through the offices of the Thai Trade Centers aid The Office of Commercial Affairs in all the key international Markets thanks to the co-operation of the Ministry of Commerce in promoting the fair. Also, the fair's Official Carrier, Thai Airways International will promote the show tough its overseas offices as well.
      A well orchestrated media Campaign utilising coverage in the international press via paid Jadvertisements and editorial coverage as well as coverage in the local media using advertisements newspapers, radio programmes, television channels and mega killboards at strategic commercial junctions in the city will advertise fair to large segments of the domestic urban population as well among other measures taken to ensure that the fledgling event gets adequate publicity amongst its target audience.
 

     
Positioned as the major summer sourcing event, the second edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers Fair will be held from June 14-18, 2006 at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center. Visitors to the inaugural event of the fair especially appreciated these two aspects of the event: the timing and the location. Most buyers were very pleased to be able to place their Christmas orders early on in the buying season and the fair, with its concentration mainly on manufacturers of all sizes provided them with an excellent opportunity to do so. Also the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center with its downtown location right in the heart of the city centre makes it easily accessible by a wide variety of transport choices and for visitors to the fair, that is a very big plus point. The Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers Fair features gold and silver jewellery, diamonds, pearls, precious and semi precious stones, accessories, raw materials, machinery, equipments, supplies and tools and all sorts of industry related products and services at very competitive prices making it one sourcing event no serious buyer can afford to miss.

 
To Book Exhibition Space contact :

Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Magazine at Booth No. LB41-42 in the Lobby at the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair from September 14-19, and Yoo Lim Silver Co., Ltd. at Booth No. 3C38, 3C40, 3C42 at the Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Fair from September 21-25
 
Timeless Jewellery
Antwerp Diamond Museum Hosts Special Exhibition of Watches with Diamonds

     
The Antwerp Diamond Museum will be hosting a very special exhibition of Timeless Jewellery - Watches with Diamonds, from September 23 - December 4, 2005. The focus of the exhibition is but naturally on the art of watchmaking with a special emphasis on the use of diamonds in different ways in adorning timepieces and making them more ornamental than merely functional and thus elevating them to the level of fine jewellery.

      Time and the measurement of the passage of time, whether it is the hours that slowly tick by or the one thousandth of a second that decides the difference between who came first and who didn't in the highly competitive world of sports, has fascinated human beings since the beginning of recorded history.


      Initially created as an amusement for the rich and powerful, watches have evolved from the showy pocket pieces to the elegant bands that are worn on almost every wrist today available and affordable to almost all segments of the urban populace. However, what hasn't changed is that watches still remain objects of desire and are still symbols of wealth, especially when the big brand names are involved and even more so if they are encrusted with diamonds.

A) TISSOT "Fleur", 1960, white gold, mother-of-pearl, containing 58 diamonds. copyright: Diamantmuseum/Swatch Group Belgium N.V.
B) Watch with insect motif (scarab), 1880-1900, Switzerland, gold, enamel, diamonds, emeralds, steel and rubies. Copyright: Diamantmuseum/Munson Williams-Proctor Arts Institute.
C) Fair-Case watch and chatelaine, 1725-1750, fold, old mine diamonds, silver, rubies, agate md enamel. Copyright: Diamantmuseum Munson-Williams-Proctor Arts Institute
D) Breguet, "Small" medallion 'horloge a tact' (Bre'guet n" 1009-745), 1801, gold, enamel, diamonds. Copyright: Diamantmuseum/ Swatch Group Belgium N.V.

      Even the humble Swatch elevates itself to a jewellery item with the addition of diamonds to the watch face. The Swatch Lustrous. Bliss, SFZ 106, made in 1990. Made I of leather, plastic and diamonds, this masterpiece is the only Swatch Skin in existence to be studded will diamonds in a flashy reflection of the legendary Hollywood Drearo, making it an ultimate collector's item.

      The highlight of the show though, is a watch with an in motif (scarab) made with gold enamel, diamonds, emeralds, rubies and steel, circa 1800-1900 Switzerland. It is an amusing to operate. When the lever at fit back of the insect is pressed, the scarab's wings, each set with eight diamonds, fly open to reveal a watch dial set into its body.

      Jewellery with insect motifs have been popular throughout history and the first known use of such ornaments was during the Egyptian Middle Kingdom (2000-1785 BC), when scarab amulets were worn for protection.

A) Pair-case watch with "repousse" on the outer case, Watch 1702; outer case ca. 1730 gold, enamel. Copyright: Diamantmuseum/ Munson-Williams-Proctor Arts Institute
B) OMEGA, Automatic, "Mille et Une Nuits" Joaillerie Homme (nr. 3308), 1978, gold, diamonds. Copyright: Diamantmuseum/ Swatch Group Belgium N.V.
C) OMEGA, Joiallerie Dame Omega a Secret (nr.3719) - is missing for the moment 1959, gold, silver, rubies, brilliant-cut diamonds. Copyright: Diamantmuseum/Swatch Group Belgium N.V. (American Production, Creation by Norman morris, General Agent Omega N.Y., USA)

D) Peter Quijo, Qui Moments Pave White and Pave Degrade, 2005, diamonds. Copyright: Diamantmuseum/Peter Quijo
      This practice carried on into the 18th century when a romantic interest in naturalism made insects particularly desirable as design inspiration. However, unlike the Egyptians, instead of using real (dried) scarab beetles, imitations of the insects were made in gold, silver or horn and were further ornamented with gemstones and the art of enamelling. This high art timepiece belongs to the Munson-Williams-Proctor Arts Institute's Collection. Also from the Munson-Williams-Proctor Arts Institute's Collection is a Pair-case watch and chatelaine in gold, old mine diamonds, silver, rubies, agate and enamel, circa 1725-1750. The chatelaine, a precursor of the modern handbag is a waist hung article, and is a form that is said to have existed since the Bronze Age.

      Consisting of a waist plaque with a tongue shaped hook that loops over a belt or waistband, a chatelaine was the logical accoutrement from which to suspend a variety of useful articles, and both its utilitarian and decorative features made it an essential fashion accessory. Until 1828, chatelaines were known as equipages, the French word for equipment or gear. Today, all forms of these articles are called chatelaines whether they were made before or after this date.

      Women began to wear watches at the waist, looped over the belt by a chain in the 17th century and chatelaines became the most important daytime jewellery during the rococo era (18th century). By then, watches suspended from chatelaines tended to be enclosed with a second, outer case in order to protect the movement from dust.

      Pair-case watches were often made of silver and gold was generally reserved for fine watches made by renowned watchmakers like Jacques Debaufre (who was active between 1712-1750). Thomas Proctor purchased this watch and chatelaine just after the year 1900 from Tiffany & Co., which at that time retailed antique jewellery. The watch and chatelaine come with its fitted box still bearing the Tiffany imprint.

      Then there is a pair-case watch in gold and enamel with repousse work on the outer case. The watch itself dates back to 1702, while the outer case was made much later around 1730. Repousse work first emerged as a decorative treatment on watchcases, primarily English ones, in the first decade of the 18th century. It quickly eclipsed engraving as the most popular form of ornamentation for watches.


      Repousse is a technique that entails the hammering of a thin, pliable sheet of gold or silver against a base of pitch to produce figures in relief either above or below the original surface. The technique became so popular that by the middle of the 18th century repousse came to dominate British watch design. On pair-cases, repousse work was generally confined to the outer case. This particular specimen on display at the Antwerp Diamond Museum has an outer case that is repousse chased with a pastoral scene of a woman playing a lute.

      A very unusual watch displayed at the exhibition is Breguet's "Small" medallion horloge a tact in gold, enamel and diamonds, dating back to 1801. The "Tact" watch was one of the many innovations of A.L. Breguet, who is often considered the father of the watchmaking art. The Tact watch allows you to read the time by the senses (tactile) making it very practical for telling time in the dad before LED. Another reason foi calling it Tact is that you can tell thi time discreetly, without having t( look at the watch. The Tact was commercialised in 1799 and ha always been richly decorated will enamel, gold and diamonds. "Small" medallion horloge a was sold to the Ambassador ofj Naples in 1802.

      The inclusion of the Ratli VI Ok is due to its functional use of high tech diamonds to make most durable watch on the face of the earth. The use of high tecli ceramics and nanocrystal diamond germs of this very contemporarj space age watch rounds off exhibition very nicely will representations of diamonds in watches from the very earliest times to the present day.



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