Zimbabwean opposition politician Innocent Gonese has said that Zimbabwe's rulling Zanu PF party needs to stop running the country's diamond sector "like a mafia where everyone involved in the management of the gems is a thief".

     The comments were made at a public forum organized by the Southern Afircan Political and Economic Series (SAPES Trust) in Mutare, reported in the New Zimbabwe newspaper.

     Gonese urged the Zabu PF to follow the example of countries including Botswana and Angola, which are using their natural resources to empower their citizens, "Botswana has diamonds and they have foreign currency reserved in abundance. ANgola has all and its citizenry has that in  Zimbabwe "the diamonds are gone but people are still poor,"

     Gonese criticized the government for not having instituted a clear policy to help  Zimbabwe's citizens as soon as diamonds were discovered in the country. He also criticized the lack of transparentcy and openness inherent in the system. "There has been opaqueness on the issuance of licenses to operators in Marange. There should be transparency on how the government issues out licenses to investors in the extractive sector, "The newspaper reported".

     But Gonese also critized the diamond companies, accusing them of not doing enough to help the people. He asserted that mining companies are obliged to ensure that vilages affected by their activities receive adequate compensation. "Villagers are wallowing in abject poverty. There were no proper agreements on the issue of compensation. We should desist from gentlemen's agreements and put in place appropriate laws and policies that make companies accountable," said Gonese.

     In retaliation to Gonese's accusations, the New Zimbabwe reported that Zanu PF sympathziers deflected criticism away from the ruling party and instead laid the blame on international mining companies such as De Beers.

     This was refuted by the chairperson of the Zimbabwe Environmental lawyers Association (ZELA), Shamiso Mtisi, who said De Bers was a private company and should not used as a justification by those who are looting the country resources. "Resources belong to the people. There is nothing criminal in asking for accountability. When a government is not transparent it is acting against its own interests. Mistrust will continue," said Mtisi.

     The Cullinan mine is renowned as a source of large diamonds and frequently yields diamonds larger than 10 carats. It is also known as the world's most important source of blue diamonds. Since Petra acquired the mine from De Beers in 2008. It has produced a number of exceptional blues, including a 39.9 carat diamond, which said for US$8.8 million (or US$220,551 per carat) in 2008; a 26.6 carat diamond, which yields a fancy vivid blue and internationally flawless 7-carat polished stone that sold for US$9.49 million (or US$1.35 million per carat) at a Sotheby's auction in 2009; a 25.5 carat diamond, which sold for US$16.9 million (or US$663.144 per carat) in 2013; and a 29.6 carat diamond, which sold for US$25.6 million (or US$862,780 per carat) in February 2014.

   For over a decade, Swarovski has been offering the fine and bridge jewellery sector unique access to the research from Gem Visions, its own pioneering trend and design service. Established industrywide as a highly respected resource for trend information and a coveted source of inspiration for designers and media specialists, Swarovski presents its trend directions for 2015.

   A highly qualified group of gem industry specialists have again worked with trend experts and Qwatovstils tn-house team to research and analyze the cresting social and cultural megatrends that will affect the sector in the coming months. For ease of access, they are broken down into five major trend directions that are explored in detail. Their relationships to suitable colours, materials, gemstones and cuts are defined and also explained. As always, Gem Visions strives to provide thought-provoking information and creative inspiration in line with the current shifts in global cultural dynamics.

Where we are heading

   Building on the design trends of simplicity and abstraction set in motion last year, 2015 give rise to a strong new vision of modernity. A fundamental part of this new worldview is the overarching theme of the absolute. As an antidote to the uncertainty of the transitory world of plans and animals, we are increasingly essence of our planet, the enduring miracle of raw which gemstones are the examples.

   Parallel to this desire for a infinite, a need for balance is Reacting to the increasing pace of crave equilibrium and the coming year bring together dynamic polarities. In ways in which these dualities mirror each other, a new convensation of opposites, collaborations and correspondences will be forges . This concept of correspondence has already come to life in the current return to the art of letter writing, treasured for slower, more intimate form of communication. Gem Visions anticipates a rediscovery of the storytelling power of the jewel as love letter, messenger and ultimately, as guardian of future memory.

The 5 Trend eirections for 2015
New Horizons :
   The old frontiers are dead. Today's new horizons spring from a totally new design scene emerging from Eastern Europe and the frozen lands of the north. Inspiration comes from folkloric traditions and handicrafts, as well as stories and beliefs handed down through generations. Pagan rituals are re-enacted againsts a panorama of a modern no-man's land in which time has been suspended. A lover of new horizons is attracted to the simplicity of rural life and treasures its folkloric heritage.

   The nobility of natural materials is revered with inspiration coming from craggy rugged textures such as wood, natural fibres, leather and horn. Meaning is sought in symbols, talismans and most potently, in jewels. New Horizons looks to matt metals, natural rocks, granite, marble, and marcasite combined with crisply cut, transparent gemstones, "such as citrine, rhodolite or spessartite. Colours embrace the patina of aging and cuts strive to capture the majesty of geological formations or even the shape of a grain.

Creatures: In this fantasitical design direciion. nature and the nature and the natural merge with science and the artifical. Whiie nature has provided inspiration for centuries, That Tradition is distorted in this imaginariurn by The creation of strange and exotic hybrids of fiora and fauno. These are appreciated by the “green” generation, with their enormous respect for the planet coupled with a distinctly contemporary outlook that takes an enthusiastic interest in scientific developments.

Materials inspired by biology are preferred; the fascinating effect of opals or mother of pearl shimmer next to enamelled surfaces and are combined with vibrant gemstones like peridot. citrine or topaz. Alternative materials like rubber. acrylic, and ceramics are mixed with natural materials. Colours are vibrant and acid-bright wi a fluorescent flavour. Cuts are organic and wherever possible inspired by vegetation, thus inventing new ways to reflect nature.

Inti-mate: This world of emotional design weaves intimacy, memories and feelings into on individual expression of personality. Attention is firmly focused on the intimate relationship beiwe the jewel, the body and its senses. This particulal applies to the sense of smell now that jewellery becoming more interconnected to perfume and other cosmetics, transforming into a multi-sensory experience. Intimate is a match for individuals who are introspective, listen to their feelings and trust their instincts. They appreciate fine craftmanship and the personal nature and meaning of jewels.

This trend combines translucent layers and dense opaque surfaces with a strong emphasis on thick, syrupy, resin-like textures. Influences also come from sensual fabrics and layers of perfectly cut gemstones: amethyst, pale pink sapphires, moonstones, opals, white agates, pink pearls, and champagne and pastel yellow diamonds or zirconia. The palette is a delicate meeting of nudes, pale pinks and hazy blues with just an accent of black. The movement and natural curves of the body influence the cut and shape of the gemstones fun — think oval, cushion and pear cuts — creating a dynamic fluidity.

    It started out with a television programme in Nashville, Tennessee, USA, which claimed that Israel-based EGL international gemmological laboratories had lower grading standards than its competitors. This led EGL's managing partner and CEO, Guy D. Benhamou, to issue a press release, dated May 26, 2014, refuting the accusations and assuring that “our testing is comprehensive, and among other things our equipment can detect any type of treatment, as well as synthetics, and Chemical Vapour Disposition [sic] [CVDJ stones and determine the origin of fancy colour diamonds.

    " Clearly, and quite appropriately, EGL wanted to protect its reputation.

    Lo and behold, less than a week later, on June 2, 2014, EGL international issued another press release announcing that “EGL international Finds Four Synthetic Diamonds in Parcel of 20 Stones for Grading.” EGL's “widespread investment investment in the latest technology had proven itself by uncovering the lab created stones," said the statement. The lab’s press release did not warn or caution the public; it didn't even mention whether the stones were CVD or HPHT grown. Rather, it reiterated that “as a top- quality laboratory, EGL international sees itself as a filter and the diamond trade's backstop working to identify and document synthetics that are trying to be introduced into the supply chain."

    My journalistic reaction was — and still is — to not “buy’ the story. in my opinion, there are too many coincidences involved. EGL's reputation was under attack, hence the issuance of two self-serving press releases in a week, the which, involving large stones (0.90, 0.91, 0.96 carats), l questioned. Rather publishing the release identifying the synthetic as was done by the global we started to ask affording Guy D. Benhamou all benefit of the doubt.

Rushing to Spread the News...
    l have rarely [if ever] seen a self-respecting lab issue a release about finding synthetic stones in a mixed Upon further investigation, when found out that no lsraeli trader had complained to the Diamond Exchange about being sold undisclosed synthetics, my instincts told me that somethings about this scenario didn't add up.

    Both EGL press releases referred to the standards and instructions set by the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, which obigated each and every bourse member to “lmmedlately report to their appropriate Bourse any incidence of the introduction/appearance of synthetic or tredted natural diamonds offered as natural diamonds. A member undisclosed synthetic or treated natural diamonds will report this, without delay, to their Bourse, and the Bourse will co- ordinate any subsequent actions with the member. There will be becaurse to the sdncfioning authority any case where 0 member does cooperate CIS prescribed rein.”

    Again, given The said xislence of These undisclosed nihelic stones, we couldn't ndersTdnd why no duped or efrouded bourse member hdd ornpldined To The isrdei Didmond xchange. Moreover, Guy enhdmou, himself, is d bourse ember. Benhdmou cldims ThoT ds runs d privoTely owned These obligciTions on Troders don't apply To [IDE President Shmuei Schnitzer otherwise, but This is that The disciplindry the bourse need to the 2014 explore in due Time.]

    Benhamou confirmed that The EGL press release was issued well before its examination of the stones was complete and well before the israei Diamond Exchange was informed [it still hasn’t been informed at the time of writing this article, almost three weeks after the press release was issued]. The israeli Diamond controller also hadn’t been informed about the synthetics [more about that ldter) prior to the issudance of The press release, nor had The owner of The stones.

    Generally speaking, when a lab discovers undisclosed synthetic diamonds mixed in with a parcel of natural diamonds, proper consultation with the stones’ owner —- if he is on innocent buyer of a mixed parcel — and others might give rise to suspicions of fraud, in which case either The police or customs authorities would need to be coiled in. These things must be done quietly; The very thing a lab should do is rush to the media and use the opportunity to get word out about being such a great laborotory and discovering synthetics because of its investment in good equipment. This is especially true in this case, where the submitter never declared that he believed the parcel to be DIAMONDS , natural. He may well have known that There were synthetics in his parcel, and, if so, Then nothing would have been wrong and there would have been no reason to say in the press release That someone WCIS trying to introduce These stones into the diamond pipeline.

Again. it was my opinion that somefhing wasn't right.

Submitter of Parcel Kept in the dark
    After reading The press release, we posed several written questions to Guy Benhamou on That very some that The press release was issued. No written answers were received, and we only ended up getting on interview with him on June 8, 2014, alter we had declined to publish the release [and had also suggesfed to some other websites to remove the release until more clarity was received].

    “Why didn't the submiiter of the parcel inform the bourse?" we asked, once we met with Guy Benhamou. His stortling answer, as we previously mentioned: “The poroe/’s owner doesn’t know about it. We haven’t informed him yet. Actually, we don't wont to be pressured ds we haven’t yet complefed our examlndiions.”

    Again, l found it absolutely inconceivable that a gem lab would issue a press release Telling The whole world about a twenty- stone parcel containlng undisclosed synthetics without informing the owner of goods. [As it turns out, The sold owner of the submitted parcel wasn't informed until the evening of June , but more about this ldter.]

    Even Though The EGL’s examinations had not yet been completed, The lab quickly inscribed The words “LoboroTory Grown Diamond" on The girdle of The synthetic stones. We asked EGL's gemmologist Roni Dery whether these stones were CVD or HPHT grown, and he replied: “We haven’t really defermined that yet, Though we tend to think these are CVD stones ."

    ." The lab's press release only mentioned “synthetics" — it made no references to the type of synthetics or the likely production source, which is really who is of most interest to the market.

    At that point, we suggested that they send the stones to De Beers’ Moidenhedd research centre, where There are so rnany precedents on file That The gemmologisfs There con even suggest the likely producfion source of the stones. Benhomou accepted The suggesfion and ended up ‘leading of 'Team of 'four 'To Moidenhedd! Now we know much more about the stones. But before that, There are still major issues with the conduct of EGL, as presented in its own press release. [The full reledse is published of The end of This article.]

Submitter Did Not Sign Cusfomany Decloration
    The EGL press release states that “The lab's clients sign a documenf when handing over diamonds for inspecfion and grading That to The best of The customer’s information They are natural diamonds. We rnust assume that the client did not know." Upon questioning, however, Guy Benhomou revedled That in This specific instance, The lab administration had made a mistake, and the submiter had not signed the relevont statement. IT seemed To us like a weird coincidence given That The lob's cusfomers hove signed a disclaimer on every other submitted porcel. We queried wheTher The submitter moy noT hove signed The sToTemenT becduse he knew That it was a mixed parcel and wanted to check if EGL would find out. Benhomou ruled that out. “So how can you conclude in The press release that the customer didn’t know he was sending a mixed parcel since 'he never signed 'That Dr Simon Lawson he Thought if was natural to with," we asked.

    As invesfigative become more ever to find out the idenlily submitler — as we had also previous DIB expost? only willing to say of that the cusfomer is customer (since 2010].

All The Stones have Gemesis/lla Tech Characterisfics
    Maidenhedd is the home of the De Beers research technological development in the united Kingdom. lts and engineers — specialists range of disciplines that electronics, design, mechanics imaging technology —engage in fundamental diamond research new methods for sorting diamonds. lt is Dr. Simon Lawson. These people who developed and equipment that identify synthetics and diamonds. They are the developed the cutting- verification and instruments, Diamond Sure, and Diamond Plus.


    flew to England other EGL gemmologists. how the centre's scientist, Dr. David Fisher, scientist, Dr. Brad The examinafion in question. The were u Bonhamnequivocal. The were CVD. The of all of The stones to those typically in Gemesis/llA Tech diamonds and To those from some in fact, The discovered interesting features in the stones clues as to their growlh history.

    What remains to be done is to identify the trading chain from The said submitter of the stones back to the producing source. Back to Benhamou.

Reputational Damage to lsrael and WFDB
    At the recent Diamond World Congress in Antwerp, WFDB President Ernie Blom mentioned that lsrael now also has its case of undisclosed synthetics Trading. IDE President Shmuel Schnitzer stressed that “The issue is still under investigation," but, clearly, The damage to lsrael has been done. The EGL release has put lsrael “firmly/' on The map of undisclosed Trading “infected” counTries.

    The press release stresses that the EGl followed the standing instrucions of The World Federation of Diamond Bourses by inscribing The sTones, buT clearly didn'T feel iTself bound by oTher provisions of The WFDB’s synTheTic charler.

    An inTerneT search will show ThaT EGL's release succeeded in geTTing enormous global coverage. lT also succeeded in creaTing enormous damage To Israel's repuTaTion as a clean naTural diamond center.

The Bombshell: Not in lsrael
    On June 17, 2014, our second intenview with Guy Benhamou took place. We were more determined than ever to find out what Israeli company had been deceived, had purchased the undisclosed parcel, and had not informed The lsrael Diamond Exchange management. Then came The bombshell: “The parcel was not submitted by any party in lsrael. It was shipped to us from overseas. From anofher country,” Benhamou told us.

    Both Rachel Segal, our editor, and l were stunned. Benhamou had been aware The whole Time of my repeated questions to the IDE Managing Director Moti Besser on whether a local trader had already contacted the bourse. He was aware of our repeaTed checking with lDE President Shmuel Schnitzer and the latter's deep concern about the integrity of the trading in the bourse.

    “Why didn't you tell us right from the beginning that the submitter is not in lsrael and is not an lsraeli party? Why did you suggest in the press release that someone is now ‘introducing higher-qualify, larger synthetic diamonds’ into the diamond pipeline? Why didn't you say two weeks already that The parcel came from overseas, if there was a parcel to begin with?" we asked, without really getting clear answers.

    As a journalist, l felt deceived. l had asked Benhamou several Times why no complaint by the buyer of the undisclosed parcel had been filed with the Israeli bourse's management. The answer Benhamou gave me more than once was that“ he had not yet informed the submitter of the parcel that synthetics had been discovered." Why didn't Benhomou simply say: no complaint can be made to the bourse because the owner of The goods is not in lsrael.

    lf The undisclosed mixed trading did not take place in lsrael, so who is this overseas submitier? How did the goods get there? Malca Amit, Fedex, Brinks? Benhamou doesn't remember how the parcel arrived in lsrael. He says it isn’t relevant. [He will soon find out that the lsrael Diamond ConTroller will Think otherwise.]

    So, l asked again, who is the “established customer” overseas? The EGL press release says that“ clients sign a document when handing over diamond for inspection and grading." If The parcel comes from overseas, when is the relevant disclosure staement signed? Benhamou assures us that there is on e-mail mechanism in place for foreign submitters to sign the staement. He also confirmed that this is always done by this overseas client as well, only it mistakenly didn't happen this time...

lsraeli Customs May Launch lnvestigation
    I pointed out to him that belatetedly claiming the mixed parcel come from overseas may get bourse president Shmuel Schnitzer off his back, as no undisclosed trading took place in lsrdel's bourse. But the “import story’ will only make it worse — as now he will need to explain to lsrael's Diamond Controller Shmuel Mordechai how a synthetic import wasn't declared. True, he may claim he didn't know at the time of importation that there were synthetic stones. But by the Mr Shmuel Schnitzer end of May he knew he hdd imporied synthetics. The obligation to pay the Valued Added Tax and correct the import data [and customs Tariff number] is fully upon him.

    Moreover, if These synthetics were not officially imported and the taxes were not paid, The customs may not allow their exportation — or, most likely, simply confiscate them. This is all conjecture on our part— Though we talked To Shmuel Mordechai and believe That we are right on The mark — but that seems the inevitble consequence of EGL changing its story [otherwise, The VAT payment obligion would have been imposed on the diamond trader].

    Up until now, we believed (including the bourse management, The WFDB president, The World Diamond Congress, and the Thousands of readers of diamond publications around the world) that There was a problem in The lsraeli bourse. Now The problem has been moved to some unknown overseas location, To some unknown overseas diamond Trading centre.

    l pledded with guy to at least tell me from which country the parcel originated. “l am sorry, l have a problem with that, l cannot do That," he responded.

    “ls it a country with lsrael has no diplomotic are we are war with this a something like that?” l asked “

    No," he said, “The parcel comes from a country which we have regular relations. l looks tell you more... “ Guy answered.

    When we shook hands end of The interview, I looked , The eyes and said: “Guy, " That l was suspicious undisclosed parcel press saw this as a pure publiclly stunt, that was almost three weeks ago. You sought publicity — so you must expect to have to answer to journdlists' questions. You did. Nevertheless, Guy, and l deeply regret saying so, l haven’t my mind.”
   
    Guy relterated and stressed that everyihing he has started is the truth and nothing but the truth, That, indeed, this parcel came from overseas and that the press release was not a publicity stunt.

    l concluded by saying "Guy, I will be happy if further developments prove me wrong."
Courtesy of Diamond Intelligence Briefs

.    For Paris-based Chaumet, which first catapulted to fame as Napoleon’s jeweler, excellence lies in the details. “You only appreciate something if you can compare it with something else. We should be allowed to compare. I always believe that the little details are what make you good to very good, very good to excellent, ” says Beatrice de Plinval, Chaumet museum and archive curator in charge of extemal affairs.

.    The house was founded by Marie-Etienne Nitot in 1780, and is no stranger to comparison with other houses. “The best time for Chaumet was at its begining, during the golden age of French pageant high jewellery. We were born at the top together with the First Empire in the early 19th century at the coronation of Napoleon and Josephine,” de Plinval says.

.     The museum’s collection has 85,000 drawings and more than a million photographs of jewellery. The cataloguing and conservation of these visuals has been ongoing for 17 years. None of the information ‘ available online. “Just to do a computer scan is already complicated because of the delicacy (of the files),”she emphasizes.

.    According to de Plinval, Nitot kept meticulous records for the simple reason that he did not trust his descendants to continue the business in the manner believed it should be done where “creation, fabrication and quality and clients" were priorities, "For him, the orders of the First Empire were of importance so he record of everything including a physical record. Since 1811 that has not left .Chaumet, "explains de Plinval.

.    The museum may not be open to the public but it is probably important source its creative Claire Deve-Rakoff has to take forward by linking her new the inspiring history of Chaumet. "The designers who have worked here all their work in this museum. They drawing everything. All the are in fact in the naturalistic we take pride in because they are interesting predatory of other ideas, explains de Plinval also resident of the Comite Vendome, a representative body that aims to promote the prestigious quarter while upholding its interests and values.

.    "It is more than a museum," she says "It has to be contemporary and concentrate on the history of style. The humanity and atmosphere of the house is important.

.    For insurance reasons, not all the pieces are shown at the same time but each one has a story. “You have to be strict to have a collection of antique pieces. I don’t want accumulation. Each piece is perfect and has a role to play,” she stresses.

.    A wheat-inspired tiara from 1800 is the oldest piece, yet it would pass as a contemporary fashion accessory. “That’s because it has a naturalistic inspiration so it looks modern,” says de Plinval.

.    She points to what appears to the untrained eye to be a simple diamond bracelet with three natural pearls of different colours but of the same size and luminosity. The idea for this bracelet was “three natural pearls from three oceans” — the pink conch from the Caribbean, white from the Indian Ocean and the gray from the South Pacific.

.    To a pearl aficionado, this is almost impossible to gather, but for the brand, the pursuit of perfection is par for the course.