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Vol. 25 No. 11  - JUNE 2012
   
De Beers Celebrate Queen’s Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee
British Royal Collection on display
Christie's important Jewels London
Luxury Week open at Christie's New York
   
     
  De Beers Celebrate Queen’s Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee  
 
        To mark Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee, De Beers has unveiled its Talisman Crown, featuring 974 diamonds, including a 73 carat rough
diamond. According to De Beers the crown was inspired by The Talisman Wonder.

        De Beers explains that the diamonds signify achievements of the past, while the negative spaces of the unset crown signify both future aspirations and coming accomplishments. The De Beers Talisman Crown is on display at London department store Harrods between 15th May and 15th June this year. As many as 31 unique crowns created by British iconic design brands including De Beers adorn luxury retail brand Harrod’s Brompton Road windows.

        The Talisman Crown is outfitted in De Beers blue and studded with 974 diamonds, of which 797 are polished and 177 are rough.
A) Boucheron crown — The brands worked to a replica of the St. Edwards coronation crown.
B) Tiffany crown — The crowns include designs by Paul Smith, De Beers, Tiffany and Co, Boucheron, Roberto Cavalli, Prada, Mulberry, Faberge, Shu Uemura, Jo Malone and Lanvin.
C) De Beers crown — Jewellery brands including Boucheron, Tiffany, Faberge, Solange Azagury-Partridge and De Beers have taken part in the special Jubilee celebration in partnership with Harrods, creating one-off crowns.
D) Solange Azagury-Partridge crown — Each brand has made its own mark on the designs, including Solange Azagury-Partridge’s, which takes her love of rainbow gemstones and makes it a central feature of the design.
British Royal Collection on display
    
        An exhibition of royal gems being staged in London to mark Queen Elizabeth’s 60-year reign will feature jewellery made from the world’s largest diamond. The major display will reunite for the first time seven of the nine principal stones cut from the Cullinan Diamond. The gems are
set in brooches, a ring and a necklace, many of which having been worn by the Queen throughout her reign, with the remaining two stones forming part of the Crown Jewels.

       In a fitting tribute to the monarch’s Diamond Jubilee, the Royal Collection is putting on the celebration of the precious gemstones, charting their
association with British monarchs during the last 200 years. The exhibition, which will be the focal point of Buckingham Palace’s 2012 summer opening, will include an unprecedented display of some of the Sovereign’s personal jewels.

        At the heart of the display are the gems from the Cullinan Diamond, which weighed 3,106 carats in its rough state when discovered at a mine near Pretoria in South Africa in 1905. At first it was thought to be crystal, as it was three times larger than any other diamond that had been found.

 
a) The Coronation Necklace and Earrings. b) The Cullinan III and IV Brooch c) Caroline de Guitaut, curator of Royal Collections, holds the Cullinan III and IV Brooch and
the Cullinan VII Delhi Durbar Necklace and Cullinan Pendant
       Exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut said: ‘’Until 26 January 1905 no one had ever seen a diamond of this size. So incredible was its discovery that the moment it was found at the Premier mine it was thrown out of the window of the mine manager’s office because it was thought to be a worthless crystal. Now, for the first time, our visitors will be able to see seven of the nine principal stones cut from this magnificent and highly
important diamond.’’

       The clerks who had thrown the stone away were eventually persuaded it was a real gem and it was named after the chairman of the mining company, Thomas Cullinan. In 1909, after it had been cut and polished, the two largest gems hewn from the rough diamond were formally presented to Edward VII. These are the largest colourless and flawless cut diamonds in the world, with the biggest - the Great Star of Africa - set in the Sovereign’s Sceptre and the second gem - the Second Star of Africa - set in the Imperial State Crown. Both are on display at the Tower of London.

       Among the items that will go on show at the Palace will be the Girls of Great Britain Tiara which the Queen recently wore at the state banquet for the Turkish president in November. It was a wedding present to Princess Victoria Mary of Teck, later Queen Mary - the Queen’s grandmother - on behalf of the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland in 1893. Originally crafted with upright pearls around the top and a bandeau base, it was altered in 1920 by Queen Mary, who replaced the pearls with diamonds and removed the base. It is one of the Queen’s favourites and is forever known as ‘’Granny’s tiara’’, being a wedding present from her grandmother in 1947. It is said to be very light and easy to wear.
d) Queen Victoria’s Small Diamond Crown from 1870. e) The Girls of Great Britain Tiara
       Many of the pieces that will be on display at the Palace have undergone transformations through the ages - having been recut or used in new settings depending on the fashion or the preferences of the queens or princesses who used them.

       Visitors will also see the impressive necklace and earrings worn by the Queen at her coronation ceremony in Westminster Abbey in 1953. The
collet necklace is formed of 25 large graduated cushion-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds and a central drop-shaped pendant of 22.48 carats. It was created in 1858 for Queen Victoria - the only other British monarch to celebrate a Diamond Jubilee - from a Garter badge and ceremonial sword.

        The impressive detachable diamond drop, known as the Lahore stone, was originally part of the Timur ruby necklace. Over time the necklace, which was also worn at the coronations of Queen Alexandra and Queen Mary, has been modified.
    


 
  Christie's important Jewels London  
 
 
  An Exceptional Art Deco Diamond and Gem Bracelet, by Cartier
Of Oriental inspiration, the pave-set circular-cut diamond band mounted with stylised calibre onyx flowering branches, the cabochon ruby and emerald ‘blossom’ interspersed with single emerald cabochon ‘buds’, to the similarly set buckle clasp, circa 1925, 18.2cm long.
Estimate: US$160,000-230,000
 
         
       Christie’s London sale of Important Jewels on Wednesday 13 June 2012 comprises 368 lots, including stunning royal and aristocratic jewels formerly from both The Collection of Her Imperial Highness Princess Soraya Esfandiary Bakhtiary and The Property of Beatrice Countess of Granard OBE, as well as from The Collection of The Late Countess of Dudley which is led by a superb Art Deco diamond tiara by Cartier.

       The Cowdray Pearls, a rare natural pearl necklace, composed of a single row of 38 graduated natural grey pearls, lead the sale. From the collection of the late Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860-1932), these rare and beautiful coloured pearls are a testament to their owner’s discerning taste. One of 17 jewels offered from the Collection of The Late Countess of Dudley, also known as the actress Maureen Swanson, is the superb Art Deco Cartier tiara; a star lot in the sale. Leading the small group of jewels formerly from the collection of HIH Princess Soraya Esfandiary Bakhtiary is a 12.15 carat diamond circular single-stone ring. Another ring with notable provenance is an Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring, circa 1905, which was formerly in the collection of Beatrice Countess of Granard OBE.
 
   
  Left to right : 1) A Pair of platinum and diamond ear pendants, by Cartier Each composed of a graduated line of three brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a pearshaped diamond drop, 4.2cm long. Estimate: US$160,000-230,000
2) A Superb Art Deco Diamond Tiara, by Cartier Composed of five graduated shield shaped clips, each tapered brilliant and baguette-cut diamond panel raised on the similarly-set diamond frame, circa 1930, clips 1.1, 4.5, 4.5, 3.5 and 3.5cm long respectively, with five detachable clip fittings, one brooch fitting and a cuff bangle. Estimate: US$160,000-230,000
3) A Rare Natural Pearl Necklace Composed of a single row of 38 graduated natural grey pearls, measuring 11.4-6.8 mm, to the rectangular mixed-cut diamond clasp, 43.2cm long. Accompanied by report no. 05552 dated 27 April 2012 from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory, London, stating that the pearls are untreated natural salt-water. Estimate: US$438,200-547,750
4) Edwardian Sapphire and diamond ring The oval mixed-cut sapphire to the deep millegrain-set circularcut diamond gallery, pierced and engraved with scroll detailing, raised on diamond-set shoulders and a plain hoop, circa 1905 Estimate:US46,000-60,000
 
 
 
  Luxury Week open at Christie’s New York  
         Christie’s New York sale of Important Jewels in June realized US$14.5 million with strong sell-through rates of 89% by lot and 92% by value. The top
lot of the sale was a rectangularcut E-colour diamond ring of 22.46 cts by David Webb, which sold for US$1.87 million or $83,500 per carat – one of more than a dozen top-quality diamonds featured in the sale.

       Rahul Kadakia, Head of Jewelry, Christie’s Americas, commented: “Diamonds have been the flavour of the season, with top prices achieved in Geneva, Hong Kong and New York through spring 2012 as seasoned collectors and new economies went head to head for the best.”
 
 
 
  Left to right : a) A modified oval-cut light pink IF diamond of 6.77 cts. $74,800 per carat. Purchase Price: $506,500
b) A modified rectangular-cut fancy vivid yellow VS1 diamond ring of 39.83 cts, by David Webb. $35,800 per carat. Purchase Price: $1,426,500
c) A rectangular-cut E colour VS2 diamond ring of 22.46 cts, by David Webb. $83,500 per carat. Purchase Price: $1,874,500
 
 
 
  Left to right : a) A circular-cut F colour VS1 diamond of 15.65 cts. $98,300 per carat. Purchase Price: $1,538,500
b) A rectangular-cut D colour IF diamond of 10.52 cts $120,000 per carat. Purchase Price: $1,258,500
c) A pear-shaped E colour VVS2 diamond of 14.82 cts $107,500 per carat. Purchase Price: $1,594,500
d) An Art Deco Diamond Bracelet, By Cartier, circa 1930 Purchase Price: $470,500.
 
 


 
 

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