Last issues
Vol. 27 No. 10 - May 2014
Richline in 11th Annual May is Gold Month
Bonhams to auction Rare Minerals

IGI Launches Enhanced Website
Banks Slash Diamond Credit
Rio Tinto Rough Tender a Success
UN Experts Report Smuggling
Zimbabwe to Reduce Diamond Miners
Payment Slow for Diamonds
Christie's Geneva Magnificent Jewels
G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Trade Show
The Artist's Touch

   
     


Richline in 11th Annual May is Gold Month
 
 
     Richline Group Inc. announces the eleventh annual May is Gold Month TM event., This annual online and in-store intiative brings many of the finest jewellery retailers in the world together to celebrate the love of gold karat gold. For 2014, May is Gold Month has been reimagined to share the largest gold trends, while also introducing all new contests and sweepstakes. This includes ways for fashion-savvy shoppers to share their love of gold on both and Pinterest and instagram.

     "In May we look to celebrate our love for mothers, graduations, weddings and mark these moments and relationships with something that will last forever, said Lindsey Woodruff, Richline’s vice president of marketing “This year, as gold makes a triumphant comeback in fashion, we explore our personal experiences with gold, how we give, why we remember and what we love about this extraordinary precious metal.”
 
    The May is Gold Month websife, brings together 14 of the largest jewellery retailers in The U.S., including Amazon.corn, BJ’s, Fred Meyer Jewelers, Helzberg Diamonds, HSN, JCPenney, Kay Jewelers, Kmart, Kohl's, Macy’s, QVC, Sam's Club, Walmart. In addition To The unveiling of many partners will be also be own May is Gold Month events and media promotions online, in Their own stores and, In the case of QVC and HSN, with televised events. Links to the gold landing pages for partners can be found at MayisGoldMonth.com

    For the first time ever, Richline is is adding weekly emall reports as part of this annual in initiative. Subscibers will receive gold trend inferviews from up industry experts as well as weekly reports that share the latest looks from many of the world's finest retailers. Subscribers to this list will also be eligible to win a $1,000 jewellery shopping spree from The participating retail partner of their choice.

    Mark Hanna, Richline’s chief marketing officer, said, May is Gold Month has become an event that both our retail partners and gold shoppers alike look forward to, it's a great opportunity to show off the latesr trends and is a celebration of the current resurgence of gold that the jewellery industry has experienced over the past few years."
 
 
Bonhams to auction Rare Minerals
 

     A number of mineral specimens from estate sources will be up for sale at Bonhams “Gems, Minerals, Lapidary Works of Art and Natural History” auction scheduled to take place on May 20 in Los Angeles.

     The Top lot of the sale is a collection of 27 rhodochrosites, commonly known as “red gold,” ranging in hue from a light rosy colour to the rare cherry-red shade. The group is expected to fetch between $200,000 and $250,000. The rhodochrosites were mined from the Kaldhari Mangdnese Field in South Africa, representing a collection gathered over many years from a region that is no longer producing.

 
     
 
     The Bonhams sale also will offer a large group of varied mineral specimens from the estate of Carey A. Parshall of Stamford, Conn., obtained mostly on buying Trips from the 1950s through The 1980s to Morocco, Mexico, Japan, Brazil, and lndia. The collection features vanadinite, smithsonite, azurite, stibnite and zeolite.

     It will also include a 228,000- carat ruby crystal in zoisite — making it the largest ruby crystal to be offered at public auction - expected to fetch, between $100,000 and $150,000.

     Other highlights of the sale includes an exceptionally rare and large demantoid garnet, expected to go for between $130,000 and $180,000, and a life-size obsidian carving of a bald eagle, expected to garner from $80,000 to $100,000.

     Additionally, The auction will offer a multi- gemstone gold and drusy onyx necklace known as “The American |ngenuity Necklace,” designed and fabricated by Jeffrey E. Abpling with an exbected sale price in the range of $60,000 To $80,000.

     ln addition to the fine minerals, the 431-lot Bonhams auction also includes mammal, dinosaur and plant fossils; loose and rare faceted gemstones labidary carvings by German masters,' Jewelry; amber; be petrified wood; meteorites; gold nuggets; and rare, natural pearls.
 

 
 
 
IGI Launches Enhanced Website
 
 
 
 
   The lnternational Gemoiogical lnstitute (IGT) has reieased an updated version of its wepsite. The lap said the changes were made to be more user-friendly and visually appealing for visitors.

    The site has rotating homepage banners highlighting new photography, as well as revamped pages depicting the |nstitute’s range of report options.

    It also provides a comprehensive overview or lGi's gemmological education, including course detaiis and supporting illustrations.

    The wepsite's certification rerrieval process has been improved as well to aliow users worldwide To simply enter their report numbers in the search field to verify.
 
 
 
 
Banks Slash Diamond Credit
 
     
 

 
   Two major banks providing financing to the diamond industry are reducing credit to ciients due to concerns that rough diamond prices are rising too fast.

   AnTwerp Diamond Bank and ABN Amro Group NV, two of the biggest lenders to the industry, have reduced the amount to 70 percent of rough diamond purchases from 100 percent, demanding that buyers of the stones front up more of their own cash.

   "It relates to concerns that we have about the industry, " Bruno Nelemans, executive vice president for stategy and communication at Antwerp Diamond Bank, said. "The bank was not feeling happy about the pricing of rough diamonds compared to polished prices and diamond jewellery."


 
 
    Rough prices have risen strongly in the first quarter of this year as producers such as De Beers have identified robust demand for polished stones. "Speculation hurts us as much as anyone," said

    Rough diamond prices rose in 2012 on the back of a continuing U.S. economic recovery and demand in China. “They've pushed up prices to unreasonable levels," Nelemans said. “The manufacturing and Trading indusTry is less profitable Than it used to be and we feel it is affecting The quality of our lending, The quality of our assets and the quolity of our balance sheet.

    "ABN Amro said it reduced the ratio of its loans to better spread The risk between the bank and diamantaires to try to entice new lenders to the industry. “Clients should have more skin in the game Themselves," sald Erik Jens, CEO of The InTernational Diamonds and Jewelry Group at ABN Amro. “We want to balance the risk and reward for all stakeholders in The industry.”

    ABN Amro say that while they've slighily reduced the size of their total loan book to The industry, That wasn't the objective of their new terms. Antwerp Diamond Bank have reduced the ratio of funding for individual transations while their total loan book has remained about the same size, according to reports.

    “The stronger companies that have responded to these changes will survive,” Jens said. “lf margins are eroding there will be companies that won’t able to step up to these standards, and some companies will indeed go bust. Others will leave business.”
 
 

 
Rio Tinto Rough Tender a Success
 
 
    Rio Tinto has reported on the success of its first rough diamond tender of 2014, describing “strong result amidst unprecedenled parlicipation and a record number of successful bidders."

    Antwerp-based tender comprised 124 lots of rough diamonds from Rio Tinto's Argyle mine in Austrolia, The Diavik mine in Canada and ils Zimbabwean mines at Murowa. The lots included while and fancy coloured rough diamonds, wilh companies successful in Their bids for The siones.

    Patirick Coppens, general manager for the sale of Rio Tinto diamond products, said: “We were delighted wilh The bidding, lhe global nature of the successful bidders and the final result. It speaks to the strong demand for our diverse diamond portfiolio."

    Along The lots was on exceplional 70ct white diamond from lhe Diavik mine, said to be the most valuable diamond in total dollors. The mining company also reported “unprecedenied bidding" for its fancy coloured rough diamonds from these mines, with yellow, champagne, cognac pink purple diamonds sold to diamond specialists from around the world.

    Israeli diamond manufacturer L & N Diamonds. a signaficant winner at the tender said: "It was great to see the tender in both Antwerp and the highway competitive Israel diamond industry. Whlist we were delighted with our diamonds the ultimate beneficiary will be the consumer when these diamonds will be transformed into beautiful jewellery for the major consumer markets around the world."

Rio Tinto's nest tender, known as an invitation sale. will feature a varietuy of rough diamonds from the Diavik mine, it will be held in Antwerp in May.
 

 
 
 
UN Experts Report Smuggling
 
 
 
 
    Rough diamond from Ivory oriirirmis from ivory Coast assumed to illegally flow into the global market, despite the embargo introduced in 2005. Rough supplier are carried out under the auspices of senior military officials.

    Several European media reports that the above statement was made by UN experts charged with checking and veification of effectiveness of the embargo.

    According to experts, diamonds mined in northern part of ivory Coast are exported to the neighbouring countries through a dealers network. Diamond purchases are paid exclusive by cash, and the money is supposed directed to purchase weapons. UN experts say that rough diamonds are partially "exported" directly through the airport in Abidijan, where police and customs officers are bribed.

'UN experts pubiished their findings at the time when Ivory Coast was preparing to join the Kimberiey Process Certiticaition Schemes, what would enable the Atrican country to resume rough diamonds exports. According to the data by Europeon Union, annuai diamond production in ivory Coast ranges from 50000 to 300,000 carats.
 
 
 
 
Zimbabwe to Reduce Diamond Miners  
     
 
     The Zimbabwe government has formally informed diamond componies in Marange that only one or two of them wili be left to mine in the area. state-owned media reports.

     There are seven diamond miners currently operating in Marange: Anjin Investments Mining Company, Gye Nyame, Jinan, Kusena Mirange Resources and Mbada diamonds. The Herald newspaper quoted mines minister Walter Chidhakwa as saying that he had met the diamond miners and intormed them that the changes were imminent. “V\/e have invited the mining companies to discuss policy direction and to deal with the issue of consolidating financial and human resource issues,” said Chidakwa “We also discussed policy direction issues and the issue of equipment.

     “We are currently waiting for the Chinese (Anjin) to come because they said their chaiman has to come from China and we are rneeting in the second week of May”

     The miners were accused of failiing to properly account for revenue reolised trom their operations. They also come under fire recentiy tor not honouring their obligations to the Marange-Zimunya Community Share Ownership Trust.

     The Herald reports that the remaining one ot two firms would operate as joint ventures with the government, However, it was not clear which two companies would remain.
 
 
 
 
     The Zimbabwe government wholly owns Marange Resources through the Zimbabwe Mining Development Corporation and Speculation was high that it would likely survive the chop.

     A parlismentary committee last year reported that tens of millions of dollars of revenue due to the government never arrived. The committee said the government received just $41 million in revenue in 2012.

     Zimbabwe is expected to mine 16.9$ million carats of diamonds this year, according to Mines Ministry estimates. Last year, the country produced 8 million carats, generating $685 million in sales.

     NGOs, such as Partnership Africa Canada, have accused the ruling Zanu PF party of looting about $2 billion from Marange, party to finance the country's military. The party denies the claims, saying the European Union's decision last September to lift sanctions on diamond exports showed that operations were above board.
 
 
 


 
     
Payment Slow for Diamonds  
 
     Zimbabwe has waited one month to recent paymenf for diamonds sold in Dubai in March reportedly causing problems for diamond firms operations, and leading to some calls for Zimbabwe to conduct auctions in Zimbabwe.

     Zimbdbwe held its first Tender of 380,626.24 carats of The Dubai Diamond Exchange Centre March 24, with sales of $29.3 million. But The facilitator of The sale, Global Diamond Tenders, problems Tronsferring The money To Zimbabwe, According to state~owned newspaper The Herald with proof of cash Tronsfer only being received April 24. Mines and Mining Development Minister \/\/alter Chidhokwa confirmed the delay saying; “They were supposed to have Transferred them before Easter; maybe due To inefficiency on the part of the facilitator hence the delay, "the nespaper reported.
 
 
   Marange Resources acting chief executive Mark Mabhudhu said, "It has taken long for the payment to come through. We do not know the logistical problems the facilitator had, but he has just sent proof of transfer on April 24. "Mabhudhu said the facillator did not explain the reason for the delays.

     Sources said diamond mining firms that sent their consigments to Dubai were now facing operational challenges with most of them struggling to settle debts and pay salaries as a result of the delay, "This delay has had a negative effect on companies because they were expecting payment should come after a few days like what happened with the Antwerp (Belgium) tenders, but this one took a month."

     Zimbdbwe held a tender in Antwerp in December 2013 and one in Februbary this year, earning $79.8 million from 1,237,734 carats sold.
 

 
     
 
 
Christie's Geneva Magnificent Jewels  
   
 
   Christie's announces The sale of The Blue, the largest flawless vivid blue didmond in The world. Weighing 13.22 carats, This sensational stone will lead Christie's auction of Magnificent Jewels To be held in Geneva on 14 May 2014 at The Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, Just six months earlier, ChrisTie’s Geneva sold The Orange, The largest fancy vivid orange diamond in The world for US$355 million, a world record for an orange diamond and a world auction record price per carat for any diamond at US$2.11 million. The Blue is estimated to fetch US$21,000,000 — 25,000,000 and is the leading gem of The 250 lot strong sale which is estimated to fetch a toal in the region of US$80 million.

   The sale will feature many important coloured and colourless diamonds such as the Ocean Dream, at 5.50 carats The largest fancy vivid blue— green diamond in The world to come to auction. with an estimate of US$7,500 .00 —9,500 .000. The combination of its size, natural origin, hue, and saturated colour makes it an extremely unusual occurrence. The Light Pink square-cut diamond of 76.51 carats set as necklace centre piece by Leviev, estimate: US$7,000,000-10,000,000, is another rare coloured diamond in The sale. A pear-shaped D-coloured Flawless diamond of 75.97 carats, estimated at US$13,500,000 — 15,500,000 will be in The large offering of perfect diamonds.
 
 
 
 
   
   The cushion-shaped alexandrite 21.41 carats is accompdnied by report of the Swiss Gemmological lnstitute stating That the alexandrite is of Russian origin with no indications of treatment and a distinct colour-change from green to purple and on appendix letter indicating That "a natural alexandrite from Russia of This size and quality is and exceptional and thus can be considered very exceptional Treasure of nature (Estimated US$500,000 — 700,000)

   Considered as The greatest contempory jeweller, Joel Arthur Rosenthal, JAR is synonymous of exceptional craftsmanship. Passion for perfecttionism are team freely used in a world that revolves around exaggereated sensation, but these two words seem to perfectly sum up the extraordinary creativity and drive of this unique creator, JAR jewels are extremely and whenever They come up for auction They acctract the interest of The world's most demanding collectors. The spring sale in Geneva will offer an elegant three rectangular-cut diamond ring, estimated at US$330,000 — 460,000 wiih proceeds to benefit "Ospendale Pediairico Bambino Gesu' in Rome and the Pediairio department of The Ospedale Sao Paolo’ in Milan.
 
 
 
       
 
 
 
 
 
 
G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Trade Show  
 
 
     G.L.D.A - Gem & Jewelry Show - Las Vegas Z014 is a leading event in the USA. This event will start on 26 May 2014 all and it will end on 29 May 2014. G.L.D.A - Gem & Jewellery Show - Las Vegas 2014 will take place at Mirage Events Center in Las \/egas Nevada. This important trade event is being organical by G.L.D.A.

   G.L.D.A. - Gem & Jewelry Show-Las Vegas 2014 is one of the most important events related to the gems. jewellery and head sector. The event presents the participating exhibitors with a great chance to not only interact with prospective buyers hut also engage in high level networking sessions and forge valuable deals and propositions. Hundreds of dealers and buyers are expected to converge at the event venue in order to further their business interests. The event rides upon the success of the previous year editions and is expected to be a major success.

 
 
 
 

   The G.L.D.A. Shows are unique in the industry with at least 50% of their exhibitors being direct source loose gemstone companies and the remaining exhibitors being the highest quality finished goods manufacturers,suppliers mountings and equipment companies.

   The 15th Annual GLDA Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry trade show will be held in the 90,000 square foot $120 million dollar Mirage Events Center. The Mirage Events as Center. The Mirage Casino-Hotel is located on the in Las Vegas across from the Convention & Expo Center.

 
   
 

   Thousands ot dealers in every imaginable gemstone. one-of-a- jewellery creations. estate jewellery. accessories. and products for everyone from the rock-hound to the amateur jeweller. can be found a the G.L.D.A. Show. Deep discount and the infinite variety attract the public to the dealers from :corner of the world: China, Indonesia. South Africa. West Australia. Poland, Russia, Canada. the American Southwest and more.

   G.L.D.A - Gem & Jewelry Show- Las Vegas 2014 will be presenting an exhibitor profile with hundredes of dealers, suppliers and manufacturers. The exhibitor profile will include professionals from direct source loose gemstone companies. manufacturers. whole- salers. suppliers of gemstones and jewellery products. amateur jewellers. manufacturers of jewellery and gemstone cutting and designing equipments. Some of the gemstone varieties found in the exhibition are diamond. pearl. ruby, sapphire, gold, antique jewellery, silver, emerald. opal and platinum. Some other product exhibits at the event are estate jewellery, accessories, tools used in jewellery making, jade and opals. et|uipment used in the cutting of gems apart from semi precious stones. branded clocks and watches. packaging and display materials. cut and uncut gemstones and branded costume jewellery.
 
 
 
     
The Artist's Touch
by Amber Michelle
 
   
    "It was a classic case of necessity breeds ingenuity,” says Ron Rizzo, creative director, Pleve, which is both the name of the new diamond-setting technique that he invented and the company that sells the jewellery made using this method. Rizzo began developing the new setting shortly after the U.S. was hit with the Great Recession.

   Rizzo looked at his inventory of loose diamonds and wanted to use what he already had because he didn’t want to buy any new stones. “I spilled the diamonds on to the table and I had rounds in different sizes and I had all kinds of different shapes and I couldn't calibrate them. Then I patted a few stones down and I thought. ‘Wouldn’t it be great if l could use them in a random pattern‘.

   Following through on his idea, and after a lot of trial and error, Rizzo developed a high-tech, clear ceramic in which he could set the diamonds. In terms of construction, Pleve is similar to a mosaic. “I started by pouring the diamonds into the ceramic, then I flattened them so that there were no gaps between the stones. The challenge is to lay in the stones with no gaps. They need to be girdle to girdle. The ceramic acts as a bond,” explains Rizzo. "When you look at the finished piece. it is like looking at a painting."
 
   
  Made in New York
   The pieces are all handmade by artisans in New York City. "There is no metal in the setting. Pleve breaks all the rules of building jewellery, from diamond sorting to setting says Rizzo, "The key is mixed shapes and sizes. We have artisans who build a piece of Pleve. We have art students , illustrators, and a graduate gemmologist from the gemmologist from Institute of America. There needs to be creativity. I teach the artists how to diamonds and they look at and shape tor the piece that they are working on."

   The process starts with an assortment of stones and a layout for the pattern. One of the benefits of this technique is that it doesn’t require a particular shape or size of diamond, so a broader range of stones can be used. Rizzo notes that there is a very mathematical formula for creating a piece of Pleve jewellery. He likens the technique to playing with a Rubik’s Cube — it’s challenging to the mind to put a piece together. “We have a palette of stones and a pattern that we use and then we build the individual piece for that pattern. We have certain anchor stones so that we can replicate the pattern; there is a formula with repetitive stone weights. The New York City workshop currently is comprised of four Pleve artists and three jewellers who work using traditional jewellery-making techniques. The traditional jewellers will add a diamond frame around a piece or put on ring shanks. earring backs or other findings.
 
 
 
 
Patent
  Once Rizzo had the formula for the ceramic perfected. he started working on the U. S. patent process.It was around that same time that he was introduced to the Antwerp- based diamond sightholder the Pluc/enik Group. The company is interested in developing new ideas and bringing new brands to market. Pluczenik Group was interested in Pleve. so they partnered with Rizzo and invested in a worldwide patent for the technique. Since that time. the Pluczcnik Group has been instrumental in latinching Pleve. which was introduced at Baselworld in 2011. The collection is currently being sold by a number of independent retailers and in select Saks Fifth Avenue stores.

  “When we met Ron, Pleve was essentially at a seed level,” comments Gadi Cohen. general manager and chief operating officer of Pleve and Pluczenik USA. “We immediately recognized Ron’s unique artistic approach to setting diamonds in jewellery. We believed that if we joined forces we could turn Pleve into the most innovative diamond jewellery concept that the industry has seen in a long time.”

  The name Pleve came about when Rizzo was doing research to find a name for what he was doing. "We weren't naming a technique, " he says "I was researching names and I came across the French enameling technique ‘champleve" l liked the sound of Pleve. I googled it and it didn’t exist as a word. so I trademarked it. l also liked the Way Pleve looked on paper. We created our own font for the name."
 
   
     A finished piece of Pleve intriguing. with a texture and patta that is not generally seen in diamotj jewellery. Because Pleve is a surfaé design, the pieces tend to be biggéi “Because the pieces are bigger, it allows the design to breathe," concludes Rizzo. "That is whenl appreciate what Pleve is about. The technique brings out the magic and allows the vision to come alive."  
 


 

 
 
 
     
   
     

 

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