Vol. 17  No. 10  --   May 2004
     
GIA to Cerify Standard "Heat Treatment" Disclosure for Blue Sapphires with Unusual Colour Concentrations
 Hot Trends from Basel
 Stone(s) Of Heaven
 
 
 
 
 
     The GIA has announced that it will issue standard heat treatment certificates for the Sri Lanka Blue Sapphire with unusual colour concentrations. The controversy over the gem's treatment process began in early 2003 when the unusual color concentrations were brought to the trade's attention byu the GIA and AGTA .By mid 2003 ,the AGTA had already cleared the stone but the GIA continued their deliberations as they conducted extensive research into the gems' colour concentrations and heating process.
Figure 1 : In the past several months,The GIA Gem Laboratory has examined dozen of blue sapphires that showed clear evidence of high-temperature heat treament as well as unusual colour concentrations.The stone have ranged from1 to about 20carats. The face-up appearance of these two 3 carats.sample is representative of the material.
 
   
 
Figure 2 : Inimmersion,these heated blue sapphire reveal unusual ,billowy colour concentrations,a narrow near-colorless boundary follows the contours of the inner blue colour concentrations.
 
 
Figure 3 : Commonly these unusual colour concentrations also display a scalloped edge at the boundry with the colorless region. Note, however, that the parallel growth planes extend across both the inner and outer colour becomes abruptly lighter or less saturated.
 
 
Figure 4 : One hundred and eighty -seven spot analyses were taken by LA-ICP-MS to map the full chemical composition of thsi sample.No syntematic chemical variation was recorded between the inner blue color concentration and the outer decolorised region.
 
    In April 2004 ,the Institute finally gave the gems a clean chit.in a statement is a GIA siad that "As a result of this extensive research,GIA has conclude that the color phenomenon observed in these stone is a product of a specific heating regimen used by Mr. Punsiri Tenakoon of Poonsiri Gems ,Ratanapura,SriLanka . We have found no evidence of international or inadvertent diffusion of element from an outside source that would require special disclosur on our gemstone reports. Therefore, blue sapphire that have indication of heat treatment,as well as characteristics and properties similar to the stones examined during this research project , will be disclosed with the standard heat-treated comment".  

 
 
 

 
 
1.Marchak 2.CR Bruner 3.Waddy Jewelllery 4. Martin Flyer  

 
   
       Design Trends exhibited at BaselWorld point to the exuberance and optimism felt by the trade and the consumers as big sized jewels in bold design and every possible hue and shade were on display .Small pieces are dated is the message that came across lound and clear.There is a brillaint and joyously abadoned exuberance in all the dangly briolettes in candy colour that were troughout the booths at the show.Coloured diamond are hot and big exclusive diamond is all the rage .Small discreet pieces as advocated by Miss Manners,are definitely out.If you are got it - flaunt
it is the designer mantra of the day. Semi precious is getting to be hotter than precious becuase it can give size ,lustre and gulity without breaking the bank and is increasingly being seen in high end jewelery as well.
 
  
 
   
 
1.David Yurman 2.Magerit Joyas 3. H Sten 4.Magerit Joyas 5.Kan Ngai Jewellery 6.Bapalal Keshavlal 7. Manoel Bernardes  

 
 
1.Jade by Nikolai 2.Carera y Carera 3.CR Bruner 4. Rosy Blue's Tamarine diamond necklace  

 
 
1.Benchmark 2. H. Grigoire 3. Friedrich Stahl Design 4. Guy Laroche 5. Aurafin  

 
 
1.Vianna 2. Vancox 3. Bracelet Inc.Jack baguette Co. 4.Denis Hazell Int'l ltd 5. Breuning,Lawrenceville,GA  

 
 
 
   Jade, which is called the Stone of Heaven by the Chinese, is actually two different gem materails altogather,a fact which remained undiscovered until the end of the nineteenth century.In this pieces on Jade ,we will focus primarily on the differences between the two varieties of Jade  
 
 
 

    Jade is a name that was erroneously given to two separate and distinct gem materials-jadeite and nephrite - many centuries ago.it was only in 1863 that this anomaly was uncovered by scienctist.Historically though , Jade has been used by many cultures and societies such as the Chinese ,the Maya,Aztecs,Incas,Olmecs,Maoris,Turks,as well as many Neolithic peoples. It was brought to Europe by the Conquistadors who invaded South Africa .Its current names jadeite and nephrite as well as the term jade also came from the Europeans.
Historical Applications
    The Chinese and the South Americans ,though on oposite sides of the globe ,both accorded jade the utmost respect and valued it more than gold too. In fact , so revered

1. Boulders of jade are sold with a small window cut to only give an indication of what is inside.For most dealers,buying is therefore largely a gamble

 

was jade by the Chinese that they called it the Stone of Heaven.They even drank a mixture consisting of powered jade in the belief that it confered longvity.
The Europeans associated it with the curing of kidney ailments and nepphrite actually gets its name from the Greek word for kidneys.Jade itself is a European name ( the Chinese called is YU). The Spaniards called it Piedra de Hijada ( meaning the stone of lion ) and in corruption

of this term .the French called it jade and from that came the name jade. The South and Central Americans used it for ceremonial purposes and it was often buried in the tombs of thier kings. The chinese too ,followed this practice.In Japan, the use of Jade dates back 4000 years and was mostly associated with tool used by shamams.
Interestingly enough ,jade was once used as a tool by the Neolithic people also , namely tools of the hard labour variety like axes ,knives,scrapers and weapons,etc.With the coming of the Bronze Age,

 

 

Bangles such as at this one are among the hottest selling jade items in the Far East.

 

 


jade's utilitarain importance diminished but its symbolic value never dimmed .Even today, modern man,especially in the Far East , uses jade amulets as good luck charm and jade doughnuts are probably the most popular cut for this stone.

The Discovery
    The discovery that jade was acctually two separate minerals belonging to two separate families with two separate sets of physical characteristics was made in the late


1800's when the science of geology had made significant progress. At the time ,all opaque green stones were loosely classified as jade until the development of crystallography. At that time mineralogist began classifying gemstones based on the mineral they were composed from and how those minerals crystallized .In the process they discovered that despite a fairly similar appearance ,the two kinds of jade-jadeite and nephrite -accually belonged to two different mineral families Nephrite already existed as the name for the old type of jade and the other kind was termed jadeite by the scientists.

So what is thedifference?
   Well, to start with ,although both jadeite and nephrite are based on silica ,the secondary mineral in nephrite is magnesium and in jadeite is aluminium. Also nephrite gets its green colour from trace amountsof iron, while jadeite's verdure is due to chromium ,

 

the same element that colour emeralds,It must be pointed out though,that likediamonds,both varieties of jade in thier pure from are white .However ,unlike fine diamond ,jade is at best semi translucent while more commonly it is opaque . Impurities yield other colours.In nephrite these include beige,yellow,blue or black among other colours, while in jadeite, the range is blue -green,lavender,white,orange and red .Compare to nephrite ,jadeite's hues are more beatiful,the colours more vivid and this is especially true of the greens.it is mainly due to this that jewelers value jadeite more than nephrite,but of course,there nephrite,but of course,there are other more compelling reasons as well.


 One of the chief differences between nephrite and jadeite is the occurence. As with all other gemstones,rarity is one of the main factors that govern value.Nephrite and abadantly found in literally thousands of occurances and therefore nearly every ancient facts ,until the1800's , the isolationist Chinese use only nephrite as jadiite occured outside their boundaries (in Burma). Jadeite on the other hand occurs only in seven locations throughout the world .These are Myanmar (Burma),California ,Guatemala,Russia (near Lake Baikal ),japan and Switzerland. Apart from colours,there are other differences in appearance.Nephrite 's crystal pattern can be seen with the naked eye. it consist of long slender crystal stacked together to from a mat likt sheet.Jadeite's crystal pattern on the other hand ,can barely be seen as it is microcrystalline .Nephrite feels soapy or oily to the touch ,while jadeite feels pearly or satiny .Also ,jadeite always feels feels warm to the touch while nephrite feels cool.

 Nephrite gives a hollow ring when bounce together, while the same action will produce a sound akin to the clashing of billiard balls from jadeite.Also,jadite gives the impression of depth when viewed , unlike nephrite .Their mineral families are different too, nephrite belongs to the amphilbole group and jadeite is part of the pyroxene group of minerals. Speaking of minerals and mineral structure, there are two physical characticteristics,which distinguish the two minerals from each other.Jadeite is harder than nephrite and will scratch it while nephrite is together than jadeite and therefore will not shatter as easily as the letter.The surface fracture of jadeite is granular, while that of nephrite is splintery.The specific gravity of the two stones is different too with jadeite being the heavier with a specific gravity of 3.24-3.40 while nephrite is a relatively lighter 2.90-3.10 The ultimate difference though is decided by the two-

   
 
 
 

materails and the market remains the final arbitrator as to which one is the more important of the two.While nephrite can be had for just a few dollars,Jadeite can command prices that to go up to thousands of dollars per carat . In the international market, jadeite is commomtly sold by the ounce and nephrite by the pound or kilogram,and in that is encapsuled the sum of all the differences.
So which one is the real jade?
    Historically speaking,it is obviously the more abudant nephrite that could be easily mined,which was mailny used as jade but in modern times,the gem quality and precious materail is definitely jadeite and thus both minerals retain their claim to the name jade.
How does one test the differences?
    The scratch test is a destructive way in which to tell the difference.As jadeite is harder than nephrite it will scratch it.Again,the difference in specific gravity can be tested by immersing the two stones in methylene iodide,nephrite will float and jadeite will sink.A refractive index test will also point out the difference.Another destructive test to distinguish between the
two to subject them to heat with a propane or butane torch(thin silver cut out of
the materails to be tested )
.Jadeite will fuse to the point of a small biol or even
melt . X ray diffraction is a precise method but can only be undertaken in
laboratories .
     The trader who buy jadeite do not get the benifits or really knowing what they are buying.They get to see no more than a small
window cut into the boulder of jadeite to show a glimps of the stone's interprior.The buyers have no way of knowing
wether the stone will be valueabe green jadeite or inexpensive brown stained materail.The buyers have only their
instince to guide them and based on that, they literally gamble hundreds of thousands of dollars on somthing that
might either be worth a king's ransom or complete worthless.

The current center of the trade in jade
     Every year the Mynmar Gems Enterprise ( owned by the government of Myanmar ) holds the Myanmar Gems,Jade and Pearl Emporium where boulders of jadeite are sold by tender to the top jade dealers around the world and this is one of the most improtant event in the jade industry.Auctions of jade jewellery usually net top dollar in Hong Kong and the finest collection of jade artifacts is possibly in the Taipei Meseum and thus, while jade might have had a more global following in centuries past, in modern times,we can say that it is an industry that basically thrives in the Far East.

 
 
     

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