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PGI Marks Thirty Years
of Platinum Jewellery in Austria, Germany and Switzerland |
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Precious
platinum, pure, rare, eternal - and completely taken for granted today
as a premium metal for  luxury
jewellery. This wasn't always the case though, and beyond thirty years
ago, before the formation of Platinum Guild International (PGI) Germany,
the scenario was somewhat different. More an industrial metal and less
of a choice for treasured pieces of jewellery to be handed down from one
generation to the next, platinum's role in ornamentation had nosedived
during and after World War II, when the battered economies of the Axis
powers could barely think in terms of luxuries and focused more on practicalities.
Switzerland
of course, blessedly neutral in her political affiliations and allowed
to remain so thanks to her banking system, tended to follow German design
and so by proxy, platinum lost favour there too.
It
was only after the setting up of PGI Germany in 1976 that platinum enjoyed
its renaissance as a jewellery metal and has since then evolved from being
the quirky choice of avant garde designers to its present role as the
embodiment of elegance, grace and genuine values.
The
veil of mystery over this magnificent white metal may have lifted in the
18th century, but it wasn't really until the early years of the 20th century
that its application in jewellery became popular. Louis Cartier, the legendary
Paris jeweller played a significant part in the exaltation of its status
and other important names of the day followed suit. |
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With
the waning of the Art Deco era however, platinum's fortunes too
declined and as the world was slowly drawn into the nightmarish
age of World War II, the industrial demand for platinum that was
swallowed up by the machinery of combat and the ruthless demise
of innocence sent the use of platinum in jewellery spiralling
into oblivion. Pure, rare and eternal were words that had lost
their meaning and there was no room in popular imagination for
virginal imagery.
This state of
affairs continued for decades until a group of platinum refiners,
jewellery designers and jewellers formed a consortium that baptised
their joint resources as Platinum Guild International and spelt
out its destiny as the association that would resurrect the fortunes
and values of this most precious of all metals.
Jewellery manufacturers
in Germany, Austria and Switzerland responded most enthusiastically
to this rediscovered metal and one of the first producers to concentrate
its efforts on platinum was Niessing, which ' pioneered the articulation
of the metal's characteristic look by giving a matte finish to
the surfaces of platinum jewellery.
Niessing also
succeeded in finding an appropriately visible form for platinum's
incomparable values - the tension setting. Artist and workshop
director Walter Wittek invented the Niessing Spannring® in
1979. This classic of modern jewellery design relies solely on
the inherent tension in the ring's band to firmly hold a diamond.
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1. "GENESIS II" platinum necklace, with
pendant made of platinum and sapphire crystal, a pink sapphire and brilliant-cut
diamonds, Bunz Collection, Dobel.
2. Advertising motif of Platinum Guild International Germany, 1985 platinum
necklace, by Meister, Radolfzell and Wollerau (Switzerland).
3. "Arcus" platinum bracelet, with two pave planes touching one
another and made from 268 brilliant-cut diamonds, Henrich & Denzel,
Radolfzell
4."Brillantschleife" ("Brilliant Bow") platinum necklace
with platinum pendants, and brilliant-cut diamonds, Niessing, Vreden |
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When this revolutionary
new setting debuted, no alloy and no metal besides platinum was deemed
to have the necessary strength and resilience
to securely hold a diamond in a nearly invisible setting.
Creations
like this one made a formative impression on the jewellery landscape during
the heyday of the platinum renaissance. Platinum inspired designers and
manufactories to further develop a formal idiom that would be appropriate
for the contemporary era.
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Creative minds initially focussed on the sleek geometrical basic
forms, which came to typify platinum jewellery and soon associated
the metal with minimalist design. Georg Bunz and his collections
made another important contribution, Bunz discovered platinum in
his quest for a timely and timeless style and he has cultivated
its fascination since the founding of his atelier in 1975 predating
even the formation of PGI. Bunz's passionate relationship with platinum
resulted in an elegant minimalist style and an unmistakable formal
idiom underscored by diamonds in unusual cuts, high quality coloured
gemstones and innovative settings that became his signature style.
The association
of platinum and purism dominated the 1980's - the 'decade of design'.
The art of dispensing with the inessential reigned paramount during
this period and from being a setting for precious gems, platinum
was elevated to becoming the very focal point of the piece. The
emphasis was on the material and its forms in progressively clearer,
smoothly planar, daring and aggressive designs.
The progress towards
new forms in the 1990's culminated in more serene, voluminous and
luxurious designs. The purist and minimalist approach softened and
became romantic even and slowly evolved to the current elegance
of line and design that defines the finest platinum jewellery today.
Today platinum has come full circle and represents in equal the
romance and elegance of a lost era as well the cutting edge modernity
of contemporary times. |
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5.Platinum ring, with an aquamarine, Meister,
Radolfzell and Wollerau (Switzerland)
6."Platin-Farbreigen" ("Platinum Colourful Round Dance")
necklace, with eight coloured gemstones (aquamarine, morganite, smoky quartz,
amethyst, rock crystal and three citrines), Georg Spreng, Heubach
7. Platinum brooch, with an onyx, a pink tourmaline and six brilliant-cut
diamonds, circa 1992, by Henrich & Denzel, Radolfzell
8. Nessing Spannring® made of platinum, 1979,
Niessing, Vreden |
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Gemstone
Pavilion Expanded to Accommodate Overflow of Exhibitors at Second Edition
of Bangkok June Fair
Following the success
of the inaugural edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Manufacturers
Fair, or the Bangkok June Fair as it is more popularly known, gemstone
exhibitors quickly filled up all the available space in the gems pavilion
while the demand for more space refused to abate.
Therefore the organizers
of the Bangkok June Fair have been compelled to expand the size of the
gemstone pavilion at the second edition of the show, which will be held
from June 14-18, at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center in the
heart of Bangkok.
Thailand has long been
considered the ultimate gemstone centre with every kind of coloured stone
available here in many innovative cuts and in huge quantities and the
world has acknowledged the kingdom as a one stop shop for all kinds of
gems from mines all over the world.
Naturally, the number
of visitors who attended the inaugural edition of the Bangkok June Fair
to stock up their inventories in the latest colours, cuts and shapes and
the amount of business done has encouraged past as well as new exhibitors
to rush to book space.
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The star attraction of
the Bangkok June Fair though, is slated to be the World Silver Jewelry
Expo (a special pavilion of local & international silver exhibitors)
that will be hosted in a fair within a fair format thus attracting more
buyers for this sector.
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Based on the performance of its previous edition and the marketing
savvy of the organizers, the Thai government agencies have begun
to take a keen interest in promoting the fair even though it is
a private sector event. The Department of Export Promotion has committed
to provide assistance in promoting the show and will include it
in its fair calendar on its website as well. Other relevant government
departments and ministries have also pitched in with concrete offers
of assistance in promoting the fair among the local and
international visitors and buyers.
International media and
trade publications will also be there in full force to cover the
event, which poses a counterbalance to the June Hong Kong show giving
buyers to the region more choice at better price points in time
for their Fall/Winter and Christmas orders.
Recognising the
significance of the Bangkok June Fair to the industry, gem laboratories
of the calibre of GIA, AIGS and the GIT will all be exhibiting as
will other industry related goods and services. A good selection
of local and international pearl exhibitors will be an added highlight. |
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Watch Industry to Unveil
New 2006 Collections at Baselworld |
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It has become a tradition of sorts that the international luxury watch
industry counts its new year from the opening day of the annually held
Baselworld Watch and Jewellery Show, and it is there that it will unveil
its latest collections which have till then been as closely guarded as
the crown jewels of England.
Indeed the Swiss brands,
many of whom only ever exhibit at Baselworld deeming other industry events
as inconsequential, have been tiptoeing around with the utmost discretion
in order to keep their latest innovations a tightly held secret that will
only be revealed to the world on March 30, when Baselworld opens its doors.
The Trade press is however
privileged to get a sneak preview of the goodies in store for lovers of
fine timepieces and thus we can take a shot at predicting what will be
hot and happening in watch land this year.
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A) ANDERSEN
GENEVE -Grande Jour et Nuit Six years after the creation of his
Grande Jour et Nuit, the famous watchmaker offers a particularly
refined new interpretation. The various technical and aesthetic
choices facilitate the unique reading of the daytime hours (6
am to 6 pm) and night-time hours (6 pm to 6 am), the hour hand
points to the day with its longer end and the night with its short
end. It jumps to the following hour when the minute hand has perfomed
a full tour of the dial.
B) BULOVA - San Remo
The rectangular case sparkles with 224
diamonds, while the dial combines engine-turned and mother-of-pearl
surfaces. Bulova, with this model distinguished by its original
design, is specially designed for women. Inherently sophisticated,
San Reino is endowed with several distinctive characteristics
such as an interchangeable strap.The display of the different
functions gives the watch a very pleasant look.
This elegant watch is also available in non gem-set versions.
C) HUBLOT - Big Bang Black Magic
In its new "Black Magic " version, the Big Bang chronograph
is even more distinguished, more demonstrative and more technological
than its predecessor. The timepiece is a blend of power and aesthetic
elegance, particularly thanks to its superb 44.5 mm black ceramic
case. The use of new materials accentuates the brand's visionary
spirit, expressed through a new watch that is bound to find a
passionate audience, especially since it features
undeniable wearer comfort
D) ANDERSEN GENEVE -KAMAR
Taking advantage of the trend for large-sized wristwatches, Andersen
offers a complication combining inventiveness, generous dimensions
and a sense of detail. The majestic moon-phase display is the
result of an original concept: a single mother-of-pearl disc with
a dark moon and a light moon that moves one notch forward at noon
and midnight. By way of a signature, the slender gold hands form
the brand logo.
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Round is the shape to watch out for (pardon the terrible pun). Updated
with a highly contemporary look, the classic case is modern once
again. Also to be seen are the square parallel piped with eight
or twelve sides.
Gems will continue
to add the right touch of value that spells class rather than the
outright in your face flash and bling of a few years ago. New materials
are in, but more than a few of the pieces are updates of already
popular models that are revisions or sequels of acclaimed classics.
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E) MIDO - Mido
All Dial Lady Diamonds
The latest Mido creation flaunts its charm with an up-to-the-minute
flair, enhanced by the consistent and eternal beauty of
diamonds. The creativity and spirit of excellence of this
watch stand out through its clear and distinct consistency
of style. Beautiful and appealing, the watch plays its trumps
in the colours of passion with a red hue signifying elegant
seduction, accompanied also by a welcome touch of provocation.
F) RADO - Integral Chronograph Jubile
A new chronograph destined to delight the woman of today.
This timepiece displays a balanced blend of functionality
and feminine design, all with an undeniable and seductive
touch of glamour. With a dial and bracelet that come in
three different colours, the Integral Chronograph Jubile
has widened its horizons to better accommodate everyone's
tastes. This watch pays homage to beauty — a beauty
that is eternal, just like the passage of time.
G) HARRY WINSTON
- Ocean Lady Biretro As the first ladies' watch of this
collection, the Ocean Lady Biretro is both extremely feminine
in terms of the gems it is set with and highly technical
in terms of the functions it offers. Intended for a woman
who is sure of her tastes and ready to wear a less traditional
watch, it embodies a sublime union of high quality jewellery
and watchmaking and brilliantly illustrates a concept treasured
by Harry Winston: "Rare diamonds & Rare movements". |
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In terms of materials, gems for cases and dials and mother of pearl
for dials is still hot for ladies watches and bracelets in white,
pink and yellow gold, platinum and steel are the perennial favourites.
Rubber has been gaining ground over the past decade and certainly
seems to be continuing its successful run well into this season
as well. The real departure from the last few years' look is the
absence of colour or rather let us put it this way, the dominant
presence of black, white and red in the colour scheme. Red especially
seems to be the contemporary favourite in the ladies models this
year.
In terms of mechanism,
there are many original models with big complications. Dials are
equipped with different functions to ensure that not a single second
is lost. The second time zone, chronograph counters, and big date
windows seem to be particularly popular functions.
Sapphire backs
seem to be everywhere and watches that give a partial glimpse of
movements are here, there and almost everywhere. There is something
wondrous, almost magical in contemplating the workings of watch
mechanisms that never loses its fascination or charm for the wearer
and it seems that in 2006, the Swiss watch industry has made up
its mind to captivate connoisseurs with its charismatic appeal.
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H) CONCORD - Mariner Chronograph
It was a quarter of a century ago that Concord first introduced
the Mariner chronograph. And to mark its 25th anniversary with a
white stone, the watchmaker has taken up this timepiece once again
and bestowed a highly contemporary look on it. At once sporting
and sophisticated, the three counters lend this chronograph a particularly
distinguished air. The watch harmonises perfectly with that special
feature of the Mariner collection: a dodecagonal bezel.
I) HERMES - Heure H Ronde
With its square case and lugs drawing the initial of the venerable
House, it is the most emblematic of the Hermes watches. Now revisited
by its designer Philippe Mouquet, Round flour features a gentle
rounded shape. It is adorned with a welcoming "sunburst"
guilloche dial, completed with a seconds hand for the men's model.
The strap with its folding clasp or pin buckle is available in an
attractive range of Hermes leathers.
J) DANIEL ROTH -Quantieme Perpetuel Instantane This remarkable complication,
a precious re-edition of a creation presented in 2003, reveals the
intricacies of the brand's considerable know-how. Thanks to technical
developments, the calendar functions are user-friendly, accurate
and highly legible. The particularly attractive skeleton dial, with
its elegant and beautifully arranged counters, testifies the aesthetic
refinement inherent to Daniel Roth creations.
K) MONTRES DEWITT
Tourbillon Force Constante Academia Jerome de Witt presents a world-first
ingenious regulating system combining a tourbillon with a constant-force
device, designed to transmit impulses of identical force to the
tourbillon and thus to ensure an optimal control of the force, whatever
the state of winding. Issued in a limited series of 25 in platinum,
the Tourbillon Force Constante Academia features an original and
aesthetically pleasing lay-out separating these two regulating masterpieces.
L) ZENITH - Baby Star Open The youngest addition to the Queen of
Love collection, the Baby Star Open watch - an even smaller model
- houses the new automatic Elite 68 movement. Accommodated in a
design dedicated to love, it can be seen valiantly palpitating,
proudly exhibiting its small seconds in the shape of a heart. Round
like the feminine curves, the Baby Star Open puts forward a new
interpretation of the crazy score of passion, on a detachable high-impact
bracelet. Talk to me about love...
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