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De-Beers'
Launches Malee Screener |
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De
Beers is now in the manufacturing stage with its melee screener
and will lease it to interested sightolders in the second
quarter before placing the device in a grading and research
facility it operates in Antwerp, making it open to the trade
more generally. The machine, officially dubbed the Automated
Melee Screening Device, or AMS , screen near-colourless or
colourless diamonds as small as 1 point and up to 0.20 carats
to determine if they are natural, De Beers said.
Unlike the screening device
for synthetic and high-pressure, high-temperature-(HPHT) treated
diamonds introduced last month by the Gemological Institute
of America that tests one stone at a time, De Beers device
can take up to 500 carats of melee at once and automatically
feeds the stones, table-down, into a measurement station.
Following testing, the diamonds
are automatically dispensed into one of five bins: - Pass:
The stone is not a synthetic or a simulant. Trials have indicated
pass rates of 95 to 99 percent for natural melee:
— Refer: A rare result, this indicates that more testing
needed;
— Refer Type ll: The sfone has a low concentration of
nitrogen and furTher testing is required, as it may be synthetic:
— Non—diamond: The stone is a simulant or synthetic;
and — Purge: This bin is for when The user needs To
empty out the machine because, for example, = placed The wrong
packet of diamonds into the device. |
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Because
the machine feeds and sorts stones automatically it
can be left unattended, and one person can operate muitipie
machines at a Time.
However, unlike the GIA,
De Beers won't be leasing its device at no cost in exchange
for data, or selling it to the general trade, at least
not righl now. De Beers said it will offer three—year
leases on the device, which was developed by De Beers
Technologies UK, To sightholders through The lnTernatlonaI
lnstitute of Diamond Grading & Research (IIDGR)
in Antwerp for $25,000 a year. De Beers declined to
say which sightholders would be leasing the machines.
Founded in 2008, the IIDGR
is part of The De Beers Group of Companies and is a
grading and research centre that offers a range of diarnond
grading services and specializes in developing verification
instruments.
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ln addition to leasing the machines to sightholders, De Beers
will install muitipie melee screening devices at the IIDGR
later this year. The cost of the screening service is yet
to be determined - and while the details are still being worked
outs, it will be available to the general trade, De Beers
said.
When asked if De Beers plans
to sell the device to the trade, a spokeswoman for the diamond
miner and marketer said the “initial plan" is to
lease the device to sightholders, which are the “current
priority at the moment.”
De Beers tested the device last year
in a pilot programme at the IIDGR. A number of the devices
also were deployed to diamond centres worldwide, to measure
the impact of differenT environmental conditions on the machine's
performance, De Beers . said.
After receiving what it describes
as “strong expressions of interest from many sightholders,"
De Beers opted to begin menufacturing the melee screener.
De Beers’ release of information
about its automated melee screener comes on the heels of the
GlA's official announcement that it had developed the DiamondCheck,
a screening device size for the detection of lab-grown as
well as HPHT- Treated diamonds as small as one point in size.
The GIA is is leasing the machines to diamond bourses around
the world at no cost in exchange for data about the stones
that get screened. Through GlA lnstruments, iT is also selling
the DidmondCheck To the wider trade for $23,900.
The bourses currently slated to receive
a DiamondCheck are in New York, Mumbai, Dubai, South Africa,
Hong Kong, Tokyo, Shanghai and Tel Aviv. Absent from this
initiall list is the bourse in Antwerp, one of the world's
main trading hubs, Though the GlA said Antwerp, along with
other diamond centres, likely will receive a DiamondCheck
laer in the first quarter. |
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GIA
launches DiamondCheck |
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The Gemological Institute of America
has developed, and will sell to the trade, a screening device
for the detection of lab-grown as well as high-pressure, high-temperature
(HPHT) treated diamonds.
The Table-top device, called the DidmondCheck, is about the
size of a toaster oven and can be used to test diamonds from
1 point to 10 carats in size. It takes a single stone at a Time.
The diamond is inserted table down via a small black hatch that
slides open at the top of the device, which is a spectrometer
loaded with GlA sofiware developed using years of diamond data.
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The
machine gives users one of three results about the lnserted
stone: it is a natural diamond ; it is a diamond but
should be referred to a lab for further testing because
it could be synthetic or treated; or if is non-diamond
material such as moissanite or cubic zirconia, though
the device does not specify the type of material.
GIA Senior \/ice President
of Laboratory and Research Tom Moses said that the device
is 100 percent accurate if used properly.
The GlA is leasing the
DiamondCheck to bourses worldwide at no cost, beginning
with the New York bourse and then going on to bourses
in major Trading centres worldwide including Tel aviv,
Johannesburg, Shanghai and Dubai, arnong others.
In addiTion, GIA lnstruments
will sell the DiamondCheck, which is priced at $23,900,
to interested members of the trade and any bourses that
require more than one machine. Moses said a number of
diamond dealers and “major retailers" have
inauired about buying the device, though he declined
to give any specific names. ln exchange for the devices,
The bourses, which will operate the DiamondCheck using
an internal employee trained by The GIA, will send The
machines’ data to the GIA, which will use it to
broaden ifs understanding on the type and number of
synthetics on the market.
The undisclosed mixing
of synthetics with natural, mined diamond, In melee
specifically, has been an issue in the trade for the
post several years, particularly after a parcel of hundreds
of undisclosed synthetics turned up of the lnternational
Gemological lnstitute’s facility in Antwerp in
the spring of 2012. Yet the truth is that no one entity
has any hard data about the guality of growing diamonds
is constontly evolving. |
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Top to bottom : The GIA DiamondCheck
Mr. Tom Moses
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Moses
mentioned that the GlA recently come across a diamond grown
using The CVD process that was Type la. Up until that point,
lab-grown diamonds were Type la. Up until that point, lab-grown
diamonds were Type lla. "What we get back from this is
more spectra, more experience," said GIA board member
and scientist Rodney Ewing, the Frank Stanton professor in
nuclear security at Stanford Universify.
The GlA’s DiamondCheck
device joins other synthetic detection devices already on
the market. ln the late 1990s, De Beers’ research and
development arm introduced the DiamondSure and Diamondview
machines, which are used in grading labs worldwide, including
at the GIA. The diamond miner and marketer also developed
a synthetic melee detector in recent years that can batch
test malee. De Beers is now in the process of manufacturing
the Automated Melee Screening Device. |
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GIA
Presentations on Rubies |
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Ruby — one of the most historically
significant and sought-after gemstones - continues to gain
widespread attention from the global gemstone and jewellery
trade. As part of the gemological Institute of America's (GIA)
mission to bring gemmological information to the public, Vincenf
Pardieu, GlA's senior manager of field gemmology in Bangkok,
will give three educational prsentations on rubies on February
8, 9 and 10 during the second annual Myanmar lnternational
Gems & Jewellery Expo.
On February 8, Pardieu will give a
Talk on “Understanding Rubies." He will discuss,
ruby deposits Throughout history — from The mountains
of Central also to the jungles of Myanmar and Thailand to
the remote bush of East Africa. Most rubies in Today’s
market originate from three different Types of deposits: classic
marble type deposits, basalt-related deposits, and amphibole~
related deposits. The study of ruby inclusions and the chemistry
from different geologic origins offen enables gemmologists
to identify whether a ruby was mined in Mydnmar, Thailand,
Mozambique or another source. |
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On
Februdry 9, Pardieu will give a presentation on “Rubies
from Mozombique and East Africa.” After the discovery
of The Winza ruby deposit in Tanzania in 2007, many gem buyers
moved to east Africa to find rubies. The arrival of these
buyers propelled ruby mining in Northern Mozambique and led
to rapid increase in production from the city of Montepuez.
Most rubies traded today in Thailand are from this new deposit,
and pardieu will present them and discuss their impact on
the trade.
"Rubies from Vietnam and CenTral
Asia" will be The focus of Pardieu’s Talk on February
10.
Rubies from mable-type deposits in
Myanmar are globolly recognised, and several other deposits
east and west of The Himalayan range — particularly
Vietnam, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Tajikistan— are known
for producing fine rubies. Pardieu, who has visited these
deposits. will discuss their characteristics and compare them
to Burmese rubies.
Pardieu speciallises in the origin
determination of gemstones and has visited numerous gem-producing
ares in Southeast Asia, Central Asia and East Africa and particularly
the llakaka-Sakaraha sapphire deposits of southern Madagascar
over the past decade. |
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India
Moves on Sybthetic Diamonds |
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India's
Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) issued
a circular to its members detailing how members can
guarontee the natural origin of diamonds that they sell
by making declarations on invoices and memos.
The guidelines form part of
a plan to deal with industry concerns over the undisclosed
mixing of synthetic diamonds with natural diamonds.
GJEPC confirmed that it has put efficient
detection methods in place; however, it noted that both
domestic and international diamond buyers have started
to request a declaration on invoices, similar to the
declaration used in rough diamond transactions, when
purchasing diamonds in lndia.
“The entire global industry
needs to be aligned on these and hence it is critical
that one organization takes the lead and responsibility,
for creating the guidelines and achieving alignment,”
GJEPC started.
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Following discussion with the World Federation of Diamond
Bourses (WFDB), The council recommended That members follow
guidelines stipulated by The WFDB as of January 6, when using
declarations, and stressed traders to monitor the guidelines
for updates and changes.
Independently, GJEPC also sought legal
counsel to understand the implications of the declarations
and repercussions that will result in the event that synthetic
diamonds are detected and a declaration is found to be false.
The council once again implored members to establish strict
internal control processes to prevent undisclosed mixing.
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Jade
Prices Rise |
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Hong
Kong jade dealers have fallen on hara times, as concerns over
a drying-up of jade from Myanmar cause prices to soar. A few
years ago, a quality piece of Burmese jade at trade fairs
in China cost about $2,700, said Li Qi, a Chinese jade trade
who own a shop in Hong Kong, and a piece of jewellery processed
from that stone could sell at 10 times the price of the raw
material.
But these days, the trade has become
far less profitable. Raw jade prices have skyrocketed so that
merchants like Li can barely afford To purchase the stones,
while cusfomers are turned off by the high prices, and demand
is falling.
“(Raw) stones that were only
worfh 10,000 yuan ($1,600) before, are now is sold of least
15,000 yuan ($2,400)," Li said. “People are definitely
buying less (jade jewellery than) last year. So, running the
business becomes a very difficult task."
Most of The world's jade supply —
as well the best— comes from the small mining town Hpakant
in the conflict-ridden Kachin region Myanmar, where Thousands
of workers bring up jade in hazardous conditions. About half
of Myanmar's yearly production of jade, which is worth about
$4.3 billion, however, Trickles over "unofficially"
to China. For 2012, The official export of Burmese jade stood
at only $34 million, which even taking into account Myanmar’s
domestic consumption, is far too low.
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The
government hosts several national gemstone emporiuma
each year, but jade producers prefer not to sell their
products at these emporiums as they would be subject
to high government tax rates, up to 30 percent of the
value of their sales.
And over over the past decade,
as the spending power of Chinese consumers increased,
jade prices too have risen. In response to the demand,
big jade producers are now using sophisticated technology
to speed up production, but that may not be a good thing.
"All the hills and mountains
you see produce jades and precious stones, " said
Yaw Han, a Burmese jade merchant, standing atop a mountain
in the jade mining region. " If we continue to
find jade through traditional hand-digging. I think
that we can find jade for the next generation. But,
if companies use modern technology these mountains can
be gone within 15 years". |
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We
cannot lose consumer trust in diamonds
By Philippe Mellier |
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Relationships
run deep through the diamond industry and have done ever since
the 15th century. When he first diamond betrothal ring was
given by Archduke Maximilian of Austria to Mary of Burgundy.
And today diamonds continue to represent
the ultimate relationship - the enduring emotional bonds of
marriage. However, for us, diamonds also represent our relationship
with you and the ties that bind together the people {in our
industry.
To my mind there are three fundamentally
important relationships that allowed us to achieve so much
in 2013 and that Wlll enable us to go on to further in the
year ahead. Firstly I would like to pay to the outstanding
relationship between Botswana and De Beers. We have been partners
for more than 40 years and over that time our relationship
has been prised internationally as a leading example of a
successful public-piivate partnership.
And the relocation of De Beers internationa
Sightholder sales activity last year saw the relationship
elevated to an entirely new level Botswana has grown being
a primary producer with a maturing manufacturing sector in
to one of the world' s key rough diamond trading destinations.
Not only does this bring incresed economic activity and a
regular influx of successful entrepreneurs to Gaborone but
it also sends a message to the global business community that
Botswana is so much more than the world s leading diamond
producing country.
The second relationship I would like
to talk about is that between Sightholders and De Beers Of
course. this will be the final Sight for someone who has been
central to every Sightholder relationship. and before we go
any further I would like to take this opportunity to raise
a toast to Varda Shine and say a huge thank you for thirty
years of outstanding service — not just to De Beers;
not just to the Sightholder community; and not just to the
people of Botswana and De Beers” other producing country
partners; but to the entire diamond world Varda has left an
indelible mark on the industry and it is undoubtedly a much
better place because of her influence. |
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As
we all know, a lot of Varda”s time over the last two
years has been taken up with the relocation project and obviously
it has been time very well spent Southern Africa has become
the new centre of gravity for the diamond trade and the relationship
between Sightholders and De Beers has been fundamental to
this shift of course, this relationship has been at the forefront
of many of the key developments in the history of diamonds,
whether it is catalysing growth in benefieiation or growing
consumer demand for diamond jewellery in new consumer markets.
And once again, the transfer of De
Beers' international Sightholder sales operations to Botswana
has demonstrated not only our belief in Botswana. but also
the ability of this relationship to lead and deliver important
and lasting change in the diamond industry. But as the world
changes, the most successful relationships are those that
have an ability to evolve, adapt and grow.
We have therefore looked at a variety
of new ways to strengthen our relationship with Sightholders
in the next contract. We have listened to Sightholders’
views on how best to do this and will focus on simplifying
the process where possible, giving Sightholders greater flexibility
and making Sightholder status even more meaningful. We are
proud to bring the Sightholder and De Beers brand names closer
together with our new
Sightholder signature and to reinforce its importance by ensuring
that only the most financially sound and transparent businesses
qualify to use it.
All of this is focused on strengthening
the key relationships — between Botswana, De Beers and
Sightholders ~ that drive the success of diamonds And of course
this is the focus of the relocation to Botswana. The move
of De Beers’ international Sightholder sales activities
to Gaborone was integral to De Beers — and by extension
Sightholders ~ accessing long-term supply frotn the world’s
leading source of rough diamonds, while providing the nation
of Botswana with a wonderful platform to drive economic development
and diversification. |
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None
of us could have achieved these era-defining successes without
the support of the other parties and our relationships can go
from strength to strength as a result of this.
The third and final relationship I would like to talk about
tonight is that between the diamond industry and its consumers.
It is this relationship that ultimately drives all of our prospects
so it is worth taking a couple of minuted of consider how it
is likely to develop in the year ahead.
Of course, any strong relationship has lts foundations in trust
and honesty. and anything that has the potential to undermine
these foundations must be taken seriously. The recent reports
of dishonest elements of the industry trading in undisclosed
synthetics represent a significant risk in 2014 and it is imperative
that we all take the necessary steps to protect our business.
However, we believe that a key
benefit of your relationship with De Beers is that we will continue
to support you with the necessary guidance and tools to help
you maintain the integrity of your business reputation. A consumer's
desire for diamonds is only true source of value in the industry.
We
must therefore lead by example, take all reasonable steps to
mitigate risks in this area and show that we are not prepared
to allow consumer trust in diamonds to ebb away as a result
of the actions of an unethical minority.
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And securing consumer trust in diamonds becomes even
more important when we cnnsider the positive economic
prospects in the year ahead. There are good signs coming
from the US economy with early reports of solid growth
in retail sales over 2013. and the jewellery industry
being one of the leading performers. Consumers are expressing
improved confidence in both economic and job prospects
and investors are increasingly moving away from the
safest investments and returning to stock markets. which
further supports the picture of growing economic confidence.
But question marks still hang over the consequences
of shifts in US monetary policy and its impact on the
global economy.
Looking east to China, there
are also healthy signs. The outlook for industry sales
over Chinese New Year is positive and expectations are
for a continuation of strong economic growth, at around
the same level as that seen in 2013. The Chinese government's
policy of refocusing the economy so that growth is generated
by consumer spending rather than state investment should
be of benefit to the diamond industry over time. but
we
will need to keep a watch on how this transformation
is managed.
Meanwhile. India, the other
engine of growth for consumer sales of diamond jewellery
in recent years. experienced a more challenging domestic
market in 2013. Although there are some ongoing concerns
about inflation and currency volatility. improvements
in the agricultural sector could trigger an upswing
in domestic demand and the economy can be expected to
pick up further after the elections in May. There is
also better news on economic prospects in Europe and
Japan, with the Eurozone starting to see a rise in industrial
production and Japan's economy bcnelitting from its
monetary and fiscal stimulus programme. In short, things
are looking up.
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So, in 2014 let us build on the firm foundations we have established,
continue to invest in the outstanding relationships that have
brought us so far and ensure we keep on working together for
our mutual benefit. With Sightholders at the centre of the
De Beers business and Botswana at the centre of the diamond
world. we approach a year alive with possibilities. Then we
continue to nurture the relationships on which our success
is based then we will also make sure that diamonds remain
the symbol at the centre of the consuniei"s universe.
De Beers Group chief executive Philippe
Mellier recently delivered the above speech at a dinner in
Gaborone, addressing senior representatives from the Republic
of Botswana, De Beers Sightholders and leading figures of
the Gaborone business community.
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Ruby
& Sapphire : A Collector's Guide |
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The Gem and Jewelry lnstitute of Thailand is to be congratulated
for publishing this most excellent book. Produced by The leadership
Team of The lnstitute, The book is an acknowledgement of their
dedication and expertise this volume embodies Three Things seldom
seen Together in a book today: Stunning pictures; a most readable
Text; and important information.
Of coffee-Table format, This large (24x28 cm) volume is decidedly
not a coffee-Table book in the usual sense of the term it is
a book to be read and re-read, savoured, refered to and treasured.
For enthusiasts of ruby. sapphire, gemmology or jevvels, This
book is a must.
The Book is just what the title says: a guide for collector.
It is neither an exhaustive technical treatise, nor a gemmology
textbook. The book will assist collectors of ruby, sapphire
and gemstones in coming to a greater understanding and appreciation
of their specialty.
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Author Richard W Hughes is a prefessional gemmologist of long
standing, and based in Bangkok. He is an accomplished writer
with an engaging literary style. He has Travelled to all The
producing ruby and sapphire fields worldwide. His unique portfolio
of expirience and ability has resulted in a volume which is
bound to become a classic.
The sections on gemmology and gemstone
appreciation are sufficient to enhance a collector’s
understanding of the science that lies behind all beautiful
gemstones. Collectors should find find useful the section
dealing with gemmological laboratory reports.
Worthy of special note is the large
section (228 pages) on the countries and gemfields producing
ruby and sapphire. A concise but comprehensive overview of
each production district is accompanied by remarkable photographs
— of gems, mines, locales and people, which together
impact a very real sense of travel and adventure in remote
and inaccessible pieces.
The sections devoted to Thailand
describes the country's progress from cottage industry to
today's status as a global centre for production and trading
of ruby and sapphire, all within 50 years. |
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The section on the collecting of books on ruby and sapphire
is truty a gem in its own right. The author reveals
a passion for book collecting that comes through on
every page. The bibilographies are volumnous and invaluable.
Throughout ruby and sapphire:
A Collector's Guide, " The pictures are a delight,
may being the author's own photos. Most of the gemstone
photographs were taken by two renowned Bangkok gemstone
photographs were taken by two renowned Bangkok gemstone
photographers, Ms Wimon Manorotkul and Ms E Billie Hughes,
All pictures in the book are attributed; the owners
of the gemstones photographed are acknowledged.
Above all, This volume gives
or insight t the philosophy and psychology behind The
collecting of ruby and sapphire. Beauty, rariy,wonder
- for whatever brings collector under the spell of ruby
and sapphirre, This volume is indeed an informaiive
and useful guide. "Ruby & Sapphire: A Collector's
Guide" is worthy of a place on The bookshelf of
every gemstone enthusiast. |
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Christie's
Online-only Jewellery Sale |
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Christie's is holding Statement jewels. The online only sale
of jewellery pieces. Comprising over 80 lots with price points
accessible to a wide range of collectors, this sale offers
an eclectic array of coloured stones, diamonds, jadeites,
cultured pearls, watches and more. The sale will open for
bidding on Tuesday, February 25th and run through to Thrusday,
March 6th. It is accessible Via www.christies.com/statementjewels. |
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In 2013, Christie's achieved the highest
annual result ever for jewellery in the auction house with
US$678.3 million. Further to this milestone, Christie's continues
to develop innovative sale channels, including the statement
jewels online-only sale, providing jewellery lovers with an
exclusive opportunity to acquire unique pieces from private
collectors.
Highlights include a set of ruby and diamond
jewellery, by Van Cleef & Arpels, a set of emerald and
diamond jewellery by Chaumet, and a set of ruby and diamond
jewellery, by Van Cleef & Arpels. |
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Timeless
and Trendsetting Pearls |
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For Thousands of years The Persian Gulf
was The hunting ground for pearl divers, armed with nothing
more Than a knife and nose clip. Dive after dive, These men
spent months in the salty water, risking life, limb and their
sight on the hunt for the most perfect of natural pearls.
Pearl farming Today is a very different art, with cultured
pearls and freshwater goods dominating The gem's use in jewellery
design, but the story of pearls — from those ancient
days in the environs of Qatar through to adorning starlets
on the red carpet today — still capTures our imagination.
The recent exhibition at the \/&A Museum
in London bought together thousands of years of pearl history,
with designs from Cartier, Mikiimoto and Hemmerle and pieces
worn by King Charles l, Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor.
The exhibition, a joint partnership between
the \/&A and The QaTar Museums Authority, was overseen
by co-curators Beatriz Chadour-Sampson and Hubert Bari, with
Chadour-Sampson, a jewellery historian. adding jewellery from
about 40 private lenders and companies To The exhibition,
which had previously appeared in both Qatar and Japan.
"From curating the exhibition I have
realised pearls are a global phenonon, "says Chadour
Sampson. "If you have gemstones They are usually sourced
at a certain time owing to a lift in demand but pearls have
remained fashionable over years and across cultures."
Chadour-Sampson point our that pearls are
a gem worn universally in The east and West. Whether for cockttails
in London or to work in Osaka ; They transcend cultures as
diamonds have, and surpass the popularity of many coloured
stones.
The history of pearls in the Middle East
is also evolving and, where pearls were once a trade, exported
by gem dealers for use all over the world, they have become
a status symbol, with many ancient pieces of natural pearl
jewellery being revamped for a modernday Middle Eastern customer
willing to pay the heftier price tag commanded by natural
pearls. |
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1.Lizabeth Taylor was partial to
a pearls
2.'Frozen' by Germany-based designer Sam Thi Duang uses tine
freshwater seed pearls
3. Precious : An Akoya pearl necklace, previously owned by Marilyn
Manroe, which is one of the items in the items in the V &
A exhibition |
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While
natural pearls are rarely fished today, They regularly hit
the headlines when sold at auction. As Chadour-Sampson notes,
natural pearls that would have cost tens of Thousdnds of dollars
at auction 20 years ago are today fetching millions. They
s’starred in several fine jewellery auctions in 2013,
including Sotheby's Geneva auclion of Gina. Lollobrigida's
jewels, in which a pair of natural pearl earrings sold for
CHF2.29 million. AT a Christie's Geneva sale in May lost year,
a single strand natural pearl necklace went under the hammer
for US$8.45 million, setting a world record for This slyle
of neckldce sold at auction.
“The symbolism has chdnged for pearls,”
states Chadour-Sampson, referring to 1930s Cartier neckldce
selected for the V&A exhibition boasting five strands
of graduated, natural pearls. Many of those glancing upon
it today would be hard pressed to comprehend just how many
dives the necklace would have Taken to make. “It Tells
you a story about how long it takes to put together, but we're
spolit Today as we have access to cultured pearls.”
she adds.
The cultured pearl, championed by Kokichi
Mikimoto who invented cultured pearl farming on an industrial
scale, has become the norm for jewellers Today. “Mikimoto's
dream that any womon could adorn her neck with pearls has
become very true," explains Chadour-Sampson. “But
it has also gone way beyond him now as Chinese mass production
of pearls by the tonne means that everyone can afford a pearl
necklace.”
The rise of fine cultured pearls has also
answered modern-day consumers’ desire for absolute perfection
in their jewellery. The most prized are larger South Sea or
lustrous Tahitian pearls that have a strong, uniform colour,
in hues that imitate the colour of the mollusc shell in which
they grew. “The rarities of today are The South Sea
pearls,” says Chadour-Sampson. “The most expensive
are those in natural, untreated colours; in The exhibition
we showcased rare examples in shades of pink, gold, black,
pistochio green, aubergine, and lavender.”
Despite the boom in cultured pearls,demand
for imitation pearls has also grown. While not a new phenomenon
— imittation pearls have been in production for hundreds
of years, made using various materials and means — They
have certainly widened the scope of customer now buying and
wearing pearls. “l Think we've come a long way from
the stigma of grandma's necklace, ” says Chadour Sampson
in reference to imitation pearl jewellery . “Certainly
pearls are attracting wearers, and what started in the 20th
century with Coco Chanel wearing imitation pearls has become
democratised in 21st century. Today pearls have a different
story to tell and you can wear them with anything." |
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4.Channel-Pearls
5.Sotheby's recently sold the pieces in the Miss Lollobridgida
collection for $4.9 million. Among the items sold were a pair
of fabulous diamond and natural pearl earrings. A spokeman for
the auction house said that eight bidderes veid for the earrings.
They fetched $2.3 million from the highest bidder, setting a
new auction record for an item of that nature
6.Magnificent : A 1930s Cartier necklace made from Gulf pearls
and finished with diamonds and platinum clasps
7.Mikimoto pearls necklace |
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Among Today's boundary-pushing
pearl wearers are the likes of pop stars Lady Gaga and Rihanna.,
and the actress Sarah Jessica Parker , both as herself and as
the character Carrie Bradshow, whom she portrayed in The series
Sex & The City for six yeors. Each is known to layer up
her pearls with other jewellery“ or wear them in chunky
cuff or choker form.
Alexander McQueen’s
AW13 runway paid homage To The Elizabethans wilh lashings of
freshwater pearls that adorned intricate jackets and even face
masks. “l would more and more as an interestlng adornment;
They are being used in on clothes, on bags and on boots in lavish
quantities," states Chrissie Douglas, The founder of brand
Coleman Douglas. “Pearls can be fun and serious at the
same time ”
Their pop-culture
positioning in to the minds of younger consumers, up The various
style references, whether subtle or outlandish, and translating
them “Rihanna is promoting Chanel someone wearing the
same look, the whole Chanetto do (like Rihanna), says Chadour-Sampson. |
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8.A model wears freshwater pearls
in the Alexander McQueen AW13 runway
9.Rihanna
10. British pearl brand Coleman Douglas |
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Opportunity
for Thai Gem Industry in Ingeria |
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Before
the economic slowdown of the western world in the last decade,
business was booming for precious stone dealers across the
world. This boom resonated in Thailand's coloured gemstone
market and consequently benefited the miners in Africa, especially
Nigeria. Surprisungly, even after the economic slowdown in
western markets 7 years ago, the coloured gemstone mining
sector grew exponentially . This was due to the ever higher
demand for gemstones in the eastern markets, especially China.
China has not only sustained and buoyed
the gemstone market for the past 7 years, it is the sole reason
behind the boost in gemstone mining. Nigeria, a mineral-rich
country, has enjoyed this boost and has continued to be a
top supplier of rough coloured stones. Due to this recent
surge in Chinese demand, Nigeria has opened new opportunities
for miners and foreign investors. |
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Most
gemstones from Nigeria are highly prefered by the market due
to their attractive colours, high quality and crystallization;
for example, Rubellite, Spessartite Garnet, Kunzite, Tourmaline,
etc.
Previously, most African mine
production, including from Nigeria, headed straight towards
the markets in Thailand, mostly Bangkok and Chanthaburi. That
trend has gradually declined in the past decade due to many
obvious barriers. This reduction of business and raw material
may well be due the country's political uncertainties, lack
of business incentives, slow and complex customs procedures,
and weak or non-existent trade agreements with mineral-rich
countries like Nigeria. |
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In
other words, Thailand has not taken the necessary steps to
continue its lead in being a top coloured gemstone and jewellery
hub. On the contrary, it has played catch-up in the race against
other emeraging and highly competitive markets. Unlike Thailand,
these other gemstones hubs have given strong incentives to
pull the business towards them. These incentives range from
government funed cash injections, to open customs import taxes
and VATS. As an example, most African gemstone miners, including
those of Nigeria, head straight to Hong Kong, a strong and
competitive gemstone hub, because of its highly simple and
uncomplicated customs procedures. |
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Without
a doubt, this process of gemstone mining in Nigeria will increase
far into the future and the Chinese demand for finished gemstones
will increase as their market matures even further. Thailand
can start off by strengthening its trade agreements with Nigeria
and possibly invest in the Nigerian gem mining sector. Furthermore,
Thailand can play an important role between the mine and the
end markets by positively engaging its skilled labour, manufacturing
installation, and the required materials. This process of rough-to-finished
product can promise more stable jobs and opportunities for Thai
workers and businessmen. It is to be hoped that the Thai government
will direct an urgent focus towards this industry, and that
Thailand this industry, and that Thailand can continue to be
an influential hub for gemstones and jewellery. |
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Breathtaking
Jewels by JAR |
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1. Colorred Balls
necklace, 1999, with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, amethysts,
spinels, garnets, opals, tourmaline, aquamarines, citrine, diamond,
silver and gold. Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtasy of JAR,
Paris.
2. Multicolorred Handkerchief earrings, 2011 with sapphires,
demantoid and other garnets, zircons, tourmalines, emeralds,
rubies, fire opals,spinels, beryls, diamond, platinum, silver
and gold. Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtasy of JAR, Paris
3.Jewel by JAR |
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4. Butterfly brooch,
1994, with sapphire, fire opals, rubies, amethyst, diamonds,
silver and gold. Photograph by Katharina Faerber. Courtesy of
JAR Paris
5. Poppy Brooch, 1982, with tourmaline, diamond and gold. Photograph
by Katharina Faerber. Courtesy of JAR Paris
6. Raspberry brooch of rubies, diamonds, bronze, silver, gold
and platinum by JAR, 2011. . Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy
of JAR Paris |
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No retrospective of any contemporary artist
of gems has ever been featured in the Metropolian Museum displays
more than 400 works by renowned jewellery designer Joel A.
Rosenthal, who are better known by his initials JAR. The exhibition
is the first retrospective in the United States of his work.
"We are not afraid of any materials,
" said Rosenthal. The designer takes unique approach.
He uses metals as strong as platinum and as lightweight as
aluminuim as bases. Rosenthal also reintroduced the use of
silver in fine jewellery making and blackened the metal to
enhance the colour of the stones and the shine of the diamonds.
His two significant design themes are flowers and butterflies
often in the form of brooches.
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Rosenthal
grew up in Bronx, New York. He attended Harvard University
and moved to Paris shortly after his graduation in 1966.
It was in Paris that Rosenthal met Pierre Jeannet, the
other half of the JAR story. The two first opened a
needlepoint shop. For Rosenthal needlepoint meant painting,
mainly flowers, on a white canvas and playing with mainly
flowers, on a white canvas and playing with the palette
of the colours of the woods. In 1976, Rosenthal moved
back to New York to work at Bulgari but returned to
Paris and decided to open his own jewellery business.
JAR was opened in 1978 first on the Place Vendome but
then relocated to a larger space next door to better
cater to their growning client base. They also expanded
the team to include the few exceptional craftsmen still
specializing in this field.
In conjunction with the exhibition.
JAR has designed a unique collection of earrings and
watches for the Museum.
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| 7. Cameo and Rose
Petal brooch, 2011, with rubies, diamonds, silver and
gold. Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR Paris |
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Alorosa
Creating a Brand |
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Although Russia's largest diamond miner
Alrosa well known domestically and in the rough industry,
its name means to most consumers buying at retail. A new
worldwide marketing and branding cambaign, which includes
selling diamonds polished mine miner s manufacturing subsidiary
through top international auction houses such as Sotheby
s designed To change that.
Reaching Out
"While De Beers is known worldwide
Alroso doesn't enioy such popularity. We hope to make the
company well known through Sotheby's diverse clientele the
private buyers who not port of the trade, said Alexandar
Malinin, director general of Brillanty Alosa, the cutting
and polishing subsidary the miner established in 2000.
Alrosa signed a memorandum of cooperation
with Sotheby‘s in May 2013 for its diamonds to be
sold through the auction house. So far, The company has
token part in one auction in February, at which it sold
two diamonds, and a second one in September, at which it
sold three pink diamonds and one brown diamond. It is plannlng
to sell a 47—carat round diamond at auction either
by the end of 2013 or early in 2014.
“There was spirited bidding for
the items that were consigned by Alrosa. People appreciated
not only the vibrant colours of the diamonds presented but
also the exceptional cutting quality,” sold Gary Schuler,director
of Sotheby’s jewellery department.
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1. This stone
was produced at Alrosa's mines, one of the world's major sources
of high quality diamonds located in the Yakutia region of
Russia. The pear-shaped Fancy Dark Brown Diamond weighting
40..45 carats and graced with small round near-colorless diamonds,
was set in an 18-karat gold ring
2. Alrosa and Sotheby's signed a letter of Intent
3. Alrosa brown diamond sold at Sotheby's
4.Alrosa put up for Important Jewels Sale was the Fancy Coloured
Diamond and Diamond Pendant Necklace (platinum)
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Two Programmes
In the first stage, Alroso has Iaunched two
programmes: one for large diamonds and the other for coloured
diamonds — each designed not only to increase profits,
but also to market and brand the company's diamonds.
Athough Alrosa is the second-largest diamond
miner in the world and has just completed its initiai public
offering. (IPO), The company has solid reasons for wanting more
name recognition “The more people know about Russian diamonds,
The more they will want to buy them, and this will mean more
sales for Alrosa rough,” said Mallinin, nothing that the
Russian cut,while it has a certain reputation in the industry
for quality, needs wider exposure with the general public.
lt is not a new idea. Kristall Smolensk,
the country’s largesl diamond manufactuer,has been working
separately on promoting the Russian cut for a long time Milinin
doesn’t exclude cooperation with other Russian manufacturers
on branding initiatives in the future, although there haven't
t been any negotiotions among them to This point. |
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The
other reason forcreating a promotional programme is that the
diamond market in general has long needed a marketing initlative.
“There hasn't been anything similar to De Beers ‘diamonds
are forever’ campaign for a long while,” said
Malinin. “In addition, The diamond market is facing
threats, first and foremost from synthetic diamonds.”
Tracking Prices
Brillianty Alrosa was first established
to serve as a price— tracking vehicle on the world market
for Alrosa diamonds. The manufacturing subsidiary buys around
5 percent of Alrosa's rough, and generated sales of $160.5
million in 2012. The company sells its large size diamonds
directly to clients or through approximately five annual auctions
held in Alrosa's offices in New York, Antwerp, Hong Kong and
Ramait Gan.
Even Though The company is the miner's subsidiary,
Malinin said it buys the same lots and on the same terms as
other Russian manufacturers. But unlike other Russian companies,
which sell off the rough that is not profitable for them to
polish — usually rough smaller than .30 carats ~ Brillianty
Alrosa polishes all The rough it buys to get a complete reading
of market prices for all sizes.
The Message
The promotional and branding campaigns the
manufacturer was assigned to develop are potentially very
profitable. “The record prices have been on exclusive
stones, either big stones in D or F colour or fancy colours,”
said Malinin. “Exclusive stones are less subject to
fIuctuations of the financial markets and their prices should
continue to rise.” He added that selling them through
auctions such as Sotheby’s provides good publicity for
the companyln, In addition to achieving the highest prices.
Since The launch of the marketing effort,
the company has polished six rough stones over 50 carats and
five other large diamonds are being polished of the moment.
The stones are carefully selected by a group of the company’s
top employees. The cutting and polishing work on one stone
takes over two months with the best and the most experienced
of Brillianty Alrosas 150 polishers assigned to the task.
Malinin said that the quality of the cut is what makes a stone
unique. Sergey Lutsishin, The companys head engineer, proudly
adds that the perfect polishing could not be achieved without
a special technique the company uses to restore the perfecfly
srnooth surface of its polishing disks using machines designed
specifically for the company. Alrosa also has a 52~ carat
pear that will be offered for sale, as well as a number of
diamonds larger than 20 carats.
The skill of the company's cutters was established
by a recent ruling by a special expert the of the country's
metals and gems that one of its stones, a round diamond to
be sold at Sotheby's, was prohibited from being sold country
because it was “unique” by Russion According to
Russion , large rough and stones have to be by the subcommittee
to determine if they are “unique” or purpose of
the legislation especially significant diamond within the
country. The Irony in this case was that the rough stone over
100 carats had not been deemed unique by the been the polished
one out of it was ruled unique, testimony to the skill of
the cutter.
Stones considered unique offered first to
The Russian Finance and if it declines the Republic of Yakutia,
diamonds are mined. In case, it was only after those two parties
confirmed they willing to buy the stone company asked for
the permission to sell it abroad., it took half a year to
get the necessory paperwork signed by The prime minister before
the diamond could be scheduled for auction by SoTheby's.
Fancy Colours
Coloured stones are another product of which
the compony is proud. The rough for these stones comes from
the alluvial deposits of Almazy Ansbara—which contain
a large percentage of colour diamonds, mostly fancy yellow
— and Severalmaz, located in the northwest section of
the country.
“Coloured stones are commercially
profitable, which meansthat the difference between the cost
of polished and the cost of rough is very large," said
Malinin. “When a stone is certified, that certification
gives it approximate price, but when one buys rough, it is
not always clear what the outcome will be.” The three
pink diamonds— .30.50 and 1.02 carats -that were sold
at Sotheby's in September for $230,000 come from The rough
of Seyerqlmaz.The mine has yet to reach its full production
capacity,which is expected in late 2013. Malinin recalls that
the rough out of which The Three pinks were created was nothing
special beginning, but when the rough cutting was done, unique
were uncovered.
During 2013, Brillianty Alrosa bought approximately
60 colour stones weighing over 100 carats in total from Seyerdimqz,
which in, miner had collected over several years. Malinin
said that the company is currently negotiating with big jewellery
firms to sell them a steady supply of coloured stones mostly
small ones.
For the long term, the hope is that new
marketing efforts wil result in a well-known brand name and
brand reputation for Russian diamonds. Malinin believe the
compony has the company has for creating a brand would be
widely recognized and approxing to the public. First of all,
Russian diamonds are unique in their quality, secondly, They
are not conflict diamonds and third they are mined in an ecologically
clean environment and cut to triple excellent quality standards
“De Beers has its Forevermark, we need to create something
of our own ” concludes Malinin.
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