Last issues
Vol. 24 No. 6  - JANUARY  2011
   
  Russian billionaire feathers his Faberge nest egg
Swarovski Gems tm New Product Collection Innovations 2011
     
     
  Russian billionaire feathers his Faberge nest egg  
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        Moscow’s most prolific art collector is channelling his expensive obsession into an extraordinary museum.

        By his standards, Alexander Ivanov had a quiet "Russian week" this year. He dropped a more $3 million last month, at the series of Russia—related art and antique sales held annually across London’s top auction houses.  
        
        His most notable purchase was a 10-inch high clock made by the jeweller Faberge on which he spent around $610,000. But such sums are trifling in comparison to his 2007 trip to London for Russian Weeks, when he made off with 3 Faberge egg bought for $14 million — described at the time as "cheap".

        Mr Ivanov, perhaps the most prolific Russian art collector, keep a low profile, but in a rare interview in Moscow he spoke about his collection and his long standing passion for Faberge, the imperial Russian jewellers best known for their remarkable gem-encrusted eggs.
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        Unlike most Russian art collectors, who have used vast fortunes built up elsewhere to fund their purchases, Mr Ivanov has made almost all of his cash by buying and selling antiques and artwork over the past two decades, amassing a collection in the processwhich he says is worth several billion pounds.

        The culmination of his Faberge obsession came earlier this year, when he opened a Faberge Museum in the German spa town of Baden Baden - the first ever Russian-funded museum to open in the West. The  museum has about 700 exhibits from the famous jeweller  - featuring everything from the famous eggs to clocks,  cigarette cases and vases.

 
        The collection has taken some time to build up.  Mr Ivanov, 49, served in the Soviet Navy for three years before going to university in Moscow, and he says he made his first money during the dying years of the Soviet Union, under Mikhail Gorbachev’s restructuring  of the Russian political and economic system, know as perestroika. Like many budding entrepreneurs, Mr Ivanov joined the Communist Youth League "co-operatives". and soon began spotting business opportunities. He started importing computers into russia - old Amstrad 1640s - and selling them to Soviet factories at a huge mark-up. As business picked up, he starts buying in bulk, and before long he had more money that he knew what to do with.
 
 
        "I was living in a student dormitory and we were bringing all this money in that we literally couldn’t. do anything with, he recalls, sitting in his Moscow office, over tea served from a vast antique teapot and slices of  bread smeared with caviar. 

        “I would have two or three large holdalls stuffed with dollars under the table at any one time. Property cost nothing back then, and there was nothing to buy in the shops, so I started to buy antiques."
Top : The $14 million egg, bought in 2007, that is the centrepiece of Ivanov's collection.
Bottom : Mr. Alexander Ivanov funds his collecting by selling artworks to Russia's rich and famous.
 
 
        He soon developed a passion for Faberge, the jewellery workshop set up in St Peterburg in 1842. Faberge was the official suppler to the Russian Imperial court from 1885 until the revolution in 1917 , and in recent years prices for Faberge items have rocketed as Russians began to snap them up in a patriotic nod to their country's heritage.

        Much of Mr Ivanov's purchasing was done before the prices went sky high, but it continued after - he claims that their value can "only continue to go up and up". Whenever a Faberge item came up at auction, Mr Ivanov was sure to be there bidding for it, whether it was a small lapel badge made for Tsarist officials, sold for a few hundred pounds, or an egg in the millions.
 
 
        The centrepiece 0f his collection is the $14 million egg, made in 1902, as an engagement gift to Baron nuard de Rothschild, a member of the French banking dynasty. It is made from gold and pink enamel, and has cockerel that pops out of the top and flaps its wings every half an hour. There is also a silver table clock, bought for Tsar Alexander III's silver wedding Anniversary by members of his family. Made with over 25 silver angels, One for each year of marriage. Elsewhere in the museum there are miniature bonsai trees with leaves crafted gold and encrusted with hundreds of tiny diamonds, an ivory cigar cutter, a kangaroo wine decanter made from the collection of Jackie Onassis.

        He funds his collecting by selling artworks to Russia’s rich and famous, usually at a huge profit. He has become an art dealer to the oligatchs, and claims that he always uses his own money to make purchases at auctions. "There's always a queqe of people who want to buy things from me, " he says. "If I've bought it, people know it's worth something. At auctions a lot of people can’t see what I'm making bids for and then they start competing with me. " He says he has established special eye signals at most of the London auction houses so that other people can't see when he's bidding. He has something of a rivalry going with Viktor Vekselberg, a Russian oil billionaire who has also taken an interest in Faberge and managed to pick up nine of the prized eggs, compared to Mr Vekselberg bought the eggs in 2004 from the collection of US publisher Malcolm Forbes, saying that he wanted to bring them back to Russia, but they have only been shown at temporary exhibitions. Although he has nine eggs, he has only about 300 Faberge items in total, says Mr Ivanov, somewhat defensively. "It’s a good collection. But it's not a museum."
 
   
 
        While the Kremlin and the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg have major collections of Faberge items, it does seem strange that a Russian collector w0uld open up a museum abroad rather than at home, but Mr Ivanov says he has done so mainly to ensure peace of mind.

        "It's very difficult here because of all the administrative barriers, " he says. "You have to be indebted to someone, and you can never feel that your collection is safe - not from the state, not from bandtis, not from anyone. In germany we spend serious money on security of course, but at least you know that the state itself won't do anything."

 
 
        Baden Baden is a town with a long Russian assciation. It was a favoured haunt of the Tsarist aristocracy, who came in their droves to bathe in the medicinal waters, and it was also frequented by writers including Ivan Turgenev, Nikolai Gogol and Fyodor Dostoyesky. "Every Russian feels an assciation with Baden Baden, especially the literary hereitage, "says Sergei Avtonoshkin, the director of the museum.

        The casio where Dostoyevsky ruiend himself gambling is still open today, and the house he lived in is now home to an estate agent's office. The windows are full of signs in Russian for elite properties in the region, proof that since the collapse of the Soviet Union, the town has re-emerged as a favourite haunt of the Russian rich. Every restaurant and cafe has a Russian menu, and there are hundreds of Thousands Russian tourists who visit every year.

        Recently, says Mr Ivanov, a wealthy Arab sheikh was so impressed after visiting the museum that he offered $3 billion to buy the whole collection. He claims to have no plans to sell, however. Quite the opposite - he has recently bought an adjacent building and is now seeking planning permission for a second museum, to house a collection of antique cars recently bought wholesale from two American museums that ran into financial difficulties earlier this year.


        "What is $3 billion? It's a lot of money, of course, but it's not the same as having a collection like I have, " he says. "We're not selling."

The Faberge story
        It all started with an egg. In 1885, the Russian Tsar Alexander III commissioned the jeweller Peter Carl Faberge to create an Easter gift for his wife.

        Known as the "Hen Egg", it contained a gold yolk, a miniature of the Imperial crown in diamonds, and a ruby pendent - tiny yet lavish surprises which characterised the 50 eggs that followed until the Russian Revolution in 1917. By then the eggs had become a symbol of decadence that mirrored Bolshevik feeling towards the royal family who were killed the following year.

        Having produced more than 155,000 pieces, the House of Faberge was nationalised and production ceased. The Faberges fled to Switzerland where Peter Carl died in 1920. In 2009, the company was revived by an American hedge fund company, producing 100 pieces which sold for between $38,000 and $6.6 million.
 
     
 
 
  Swarovski Gems tm New Product Collection Innovations 2011  
 

        Swarovski Gemstm.-  Swarovski's s distinguished product brand for genuine gemstones and created stones launches a  new collection of Innovations for 2011. Known worldwide for its mastery of light, poety of precision and unrivalled  consistency of cut, color and brillilance, this Swarovski Gems TM collection taps into Swarovski's worldrld-renowned artistry and unrivalled technical skill. The results is an ingenious array of new gem products for the coming season.

Created Stones
Pure Brilliance Cut For Zirconia
        Leading the way into heart of the collection for 2011 is the Swarovski Zirconia Pure Brilliance cut, the latest proof Swarovski Gems TM ongoing guest for innovation in the science of precision cutting. For the first time




Berries ring
Round Brilliant Cut Genuine white sapphire / white gold / White Ceremics

 

 



Genuine white sapphire
The extraordinary lustre and airy edginess of White Sapphire give it a quality of lightness, purity and clarity that is seldom seen staged with such eloquence. The secret of its sparkling appeal can be found in the stone's refraction quality and unique ability to bring out the stone's full brilliance.


in history, Swarovski has applied ideal diamond cut standards to Zirconia, creating an entirely new dimension of excellence for this exciting stone. Flawlessly noble, this is the first ever Zirconia cut to adhere with the exacting  standards of quality set by the Gemological Institute of America's Comprehensive set of
 

Opus beads
Round Brilliance Cut Genuine White Sapphire/Genuine Yellow Sapphire/White gold

 

Never-ending beads
Round Brilliant Cut Genuine White Sapphire18K Yellow Gold/Leather Cord
.

Opus beads
Round Brilliant Cut Genuine White Sapphire / Genuine Yellow Sapphire / Yellow Gold


Slide pendant
Round Brilliant Cut Genuine White Sapphire / White Gold
 
 
 
 
 
 
Standards for grading diamond cut quality. The GIA is the world's forement authority on diamond grading. The GIA's test methods, including sophisticated company modeling, confirm that the level of brilliance in the Swarovski Gems tm Pure Brilliance Cut equals that of the highest quality diamond, placing the latest addition to the inspired collection of created stones in a class of its own.
     
  Proof of quality
To ensure absolute proof of quality, every Swarovski Gems tm Zirconia features a microscopic
 
Alien ring
Arc Cut Passion Topaz White / Reversed Cut Zirconia White / White Gold

 
Core ring
Are Cut Passion Topaz White / Round Brilliant Cut Genuine White Sapphire / Yellow Gold / White Ceramic
 
   
"Swarovski Zirconia" Laser engraving that is invisible to the naked eye and does not affect the brilliance of the stone in any way. This special sign of authenticity and quality is the consumer's guarantee that these stones are of the highest.
   
       
 
Butterfly rings
Round Brilliant Cut Genuine White Sapphire / White Gold
 
Dots earrings
Arc Cut Passion Topaz White / Reversed Cut Zirconia White / White Gold / White Ceramic / Black Ceramic
  Tron ring
Arc Cut Passion Topaz White & Rainforest / White Gold
 
       
 
Arc Cut
The patent-pending Arc cut draws its allure from the vivid interplay of tradition and modernity that is the essence of the Swarovski ethic of innovation. The free-flowing form of the cut makes it perfect for individualist designs, and its soft lines boast tolerances of unequalled exactness. This curvaceous modern icon lends organic purity and perfection to watch design.
 
Geisha earrings
Arc Cut Passion Topaz White & Blazing Red / White Gold / Red Ceramic / White Ceramic






 
Pure brilliance
Swarovski's new cut for ZIrconia is truly a cut above the rest. It is the first Zirconia in the history to account flawlessly to the recently introduced, comprehensive set of standards for grading diamond cut quality of the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA), the world's foremost authority on diamond grading.
ZIrconia / White
 
 
 
 
 
 
precision and brilliance and match top cutting standards of the diamond industry. The laser engraving serves as assurance that the Swarovski Gems TM Pure
 
Brilliance Cut is the finest and most diamond-like Zirconia avaliable on the market. It is exclusively cut by Swarovski in Austria and satisfies the world's most demanding social and environmental standards. The star effect observed in a round Swarovski Gems TM ZIrconia, when viewed through the Starscope, reveals a distinct eight-point star
   
       
  Necklace, earrings
Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White / Silver
  Roots ring
Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White & Champagne / Yellow Gold / Brown Gold
   
     
Galaxy pendant
Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White & Champagne / Yellow Gold / Ebony Wood
 
  Necklace
Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White / Silver
  Melange necklace
Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White / Round Star Cut Passion Topaz Blazing Red / Round Brilliant Cut Genuine Yellow Sapphire / 18K White Gold / leather Cord

 
     
  Elephant ring
Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White / White Ceramic / White Gold
   
 
 
 
       
  Boa earrings
Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White / Yellow Gold

  Two ring
Reversed Cut Zirconia White & Champagne / White Gold / Yellow Gold
   
  pattern, the unmistakable sign of the perfect geometrical proportions - the mark of a truly ideal cut.
     
  Reversed Cut
The Reversed Cut reflects the challenges that were presented to jewellery conventions in 2011. It uses a revolutionary cutting technology that literally turns classic faceting on its head to capture a sense of impending transformation. This is
    Meringue ring
Reversed Cut Zirconia White & Yellow Gold / White Ceramic

 
      Naturals gemstones
White Sapphire
The new White Sapphire has an eloquence that derived from its extraordinary lustre and airy lightness. This aristocratic gemstone with a stunning purity
 
       
    Swan pendant
Reversed Cut Zirconia White & Champagne / Pear Diamond Cut ZIrconia White / White Gold

   
    a casual, creative cut with a touch of romance but it still retains a sense of softness and the intrigue of an antique glimmer.
   
  Reversed cut
The cutting technology used in the Reversed Cut turns classic faceting on its head to yield a more casual, creative cut with a touch of romance, yet more than its share of savoirfaire. The result is a modern classic that is as much a clever statement piece as a purist's pledge of allegiance to form.

 
Lemon Cut
The playfully named and shaped Lemon Cut has an appealing spontaneity and a sense of the uncomplicated simplicity. With echoes of the marquise, this cut has a pleasing roundness and generosity that tapers into elegantly narrow but softened points.
  Swan castle rings
Reversed Cut Zirconia Champagne / silver

 
    and clarity adds rich accents of light and luminosity to all new design directions for 2011.
Arc Cut
The ingenious Arc Cut unleashes the arresting Interplay of tradition and modernity that is the hallmark of all Swarovski innovations. This new cut for genuine gemstones is an arch individualist, combining the gentle curves of a solf profile with
  infinite reflections of precise geometric facets.
Components
Gemotion

Gemotion demonstrates Swarovski's world-renowned cutting-edge technology and plays with the concept of kinetic jewellery and gemstones, so that the inset gem, either genuine or created, moves with the movement of the wearer.
 
  Lemon Cut
Despite its playful faceting and spontaneous personality, the Lemon Cut is finely aligned to consumers' growing annoyance with overwrought and needlessly complicated product designs. It offers instead an unabashed ode to roundness and modulation composed of simple, sometimes geometric forms that reflect the growning movement of "togetherness" with zest and delightful directness.
Zirconia / White, Mint, Salmon Pink.

     
    Waterdrop cut
Water's elemental fluidity and sensuality surface with stunning clarity in this celebration of a resource that tomorrow may be a luxury. Its deep blue encapsulates both the beauty of the ocean and the glee of raindrops. The cut is turned to the times and will make a splash in 2011, when the theme of water promise to rise to global significance.
Synthetic spinel / Blue Medium (with and without hole)
   
      Burgeon Pendant / Brooch
Waterdrop Cut Synthetic Spinel Blue Medium / Oval Cut Synthetic Spinel Blue Medium / White Gold
 
 
Popple necklace
Lemon Cut Zirconia Mint / White Gold
  Wreath rings
Lemon Cut Zirconia Salmon Pink / Trilight Cut passion Topaz Paraiba / Lemon Cut Zirconia Mint / Trilight Cut Passion Topaz Ice Blue / Yellow Gold / White Gold

   
Mini drop earrings
Waterdrop Cut Synthetic Spinel Blue Medium / Round Cut Synthetic Spinel Blue Medium / Triangle Cut Zirconia Arctic Blue / White Gold

       
  Peacock earrings
Waterdrop Cut Synthetic Spinel Blue Medium Round Star Cut Passion Topaz Rainforest / White Gold
  Gemotion
Jewellery-makers can set new designs in motion with this cutting-edge component, with which both natural gemstones and created stones can be set either statically or to flow with the wearer's movements - a dream come true for the jewellery, eyewear, electronics and accessories segment. This sparkling component's two parts can be easily snapped together to breathe new life and variety into collections.
  Scallop bracelet
Gemotion set with Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White / 18K Yellow Gold
 
       
  Goldfish Pendant
Waterdrop Cut Synthetic Spinel Blue Medium / Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White & Plexi Blue / White Gold
    Ring
Gemotion set with Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia White / Yellow Gold / White Painted Metal
 
       
  Me 2 pendant
Waterdrop Cut Synthetic Spinel Blue Medium / Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia Red / 18K White Gold / 18K Yellow Gold / Leather Cord
  Ring
Gemotion set with Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia / White & Champagne / Yellow Gold
  Ring
Gemotion set with Pure Brilliance Cut Zirconia Amethyst & Amber White Gold
 
    Tango pendant
Gemotion set with Round Star Cut Passion Topaz Turquoise Blue & Blazing Red / White Gold / Yellow Gold
     
           
 

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