8th Year Issue 42/2003

A-Z Revolutionary Diamond Cuts
100 Amazing Fact of Gemstone



 
       
   
 
    If we think of a diamond we ussually conjure a vision of sparkling crystal clarity,specially cut to enchance its natural shape and beauty a brillaint jewel that signifies respect, love and fidelity. The quality of each individual diamond is measured by four constant characteristic (4Cs.): color, clarity, carat and cut. Cut is the most important characteristic,being the only one that man can contribute to by enchancing the natural beauty of a diamond. The uniqueness of any diamond , of course,is in its brillaince. A good diamond will naturally reflect a sparkling brillaince the more intense the brillaince, the more valuable the diamond . The more light it reflects in the in the eyes of its beholder,the more beautiful it is perceived to be.

    Let us recall a few detail concerning this unique diamond cut.The cutting of diamond originated in the 14th century and developed continously through to the 16th century, when the cut was considered nearing it idea cut. It was during this period that craftman invented the table cut .which improve the brillaince cut of diamond .During the 17th century,craftman founded the rose cut, know as a cut diamond , which adds more facets and brillaince to a diamond.


    The Ashoka diamond cut was first applied to a stone mined in the Gollconda region of India. The stone's namesake comes from the revered Buddhist warrior Ashoka, who reigned as king of the Mauryan Empire in India from 273-262 B.C.E. He was the most famous of the Mauryan kings and was one of the greatest rulers of India. The diamond cut was portraied an elongated cushion cut with rounded corners, capturing and dispersing light with a fiery brilliance. The Ashoka cut has 62 facets which bestow a breathtakingly dazzling effect upon the diamond which can immediately feel like treasured antiques.

    In the 18th century, the brilliant cut was invented and this unique technique is still inuse today . the brillaint cut provides 58 facets techniques is accept that this particular cut reveals perfectly,the exquisite beauty of a diamond and its full brillaince.From that time to the present day , the brillaint cut has been continously honoured and developed by legions of highly skilled craftmen who are attraced to this particular art form. It is also recognized wolrdwide , that the brillaint cut archieves the most beautiful facets, the most accurate classic form and is the most popularly coveted of all the diamond species.

    In addition to the classic round ,emerald ,marquist and oval cut, there have a wider choice than ever in cut diamond,becuase diamond cutters are using advanced technology and creativity to invent new and unique diamomd cuts, and become a revolutionary new shape.


    Bagillion diamonds,like Baguettes, are available in squares,rectangles and tapered rectangles,However,unlike Baguettes,Bagillion diamonds are brillaint cut intead of step cut . As a result, they posses more facets and sparkle more than traditional baguette daimonds.

    Bagillion diamond s are often used as accent stones in diamond jewelry, They are best used to fill curved, rounded channel, or prong set rings and jewelry.


    Diamond Briolettes, of drop cut diamonds, are pear-shaped with triangular facets on top.Brillainttes are drilled through the top and suspended to form a pendant.
    The shape of a diamond briolette lend itself to dangle as a pendant or earrings.The cut is found in the crown jewels of many royal families,including the Australian dynasty, the Romanovs of Russia ,and both the royal and Napoleon to the Empress Marie Louise and is noiw in the Smithsonian Insitute.



    Century cut diamonds are a new type of Round diamonds that have extra facets, By adding facets in the right alignment, the brillaincy ,fire , and life of the diamonds has been increased. Of great news to buyer is that cost of Century cut diamonda is competitive to that of standard brillaint cut diamonds.
    Standard round Brillaint cut diamond have 58 facets . Century cut diamonds have extra facets, depend on carat weight as follows :
    - up to 1/2 carat = 66 facets
    - 1/2 carat to 1 carat = 74 facets
    -1 carat and up = facets
 
 
 
 

    The square Context cut diamond is based on the natural sructure of a diamond an octrahedral crystal and feature a star -shaped cross cut diagonally into the stone so the planes reflect light light like a hall of mirrors. This diamond has only 8 facets but posses a remarkable amount of brillaince - up to 15% more than a standard brillaint diamond.
    The cutting process require excellent-quality rough diamonds and leaves a good deal of waste, Making a Context cut diamond 40% to 50% more expensive than a brillaint-cut diamond. A similar but round version is the Spirit Sun diamond.


    The Crisscut diamond is a new variation on the emerald-cut diamond, which is step-cut.Invented and patented by the Siman-Tov brothers, they want to design a rectangular shaped diamond with maximum brillaince.
    Crisscut diamond have 77 facets that appear to crisscross inside the diamond.Crisscut diamond diamond tend to be shallower than princess cut or emerald cut diamonds.


    There was only one way to capture the brightness, the splendor, the light of French Impressionism. And that was to create a diamond that totally broke away from all the traditional rules of diamond cutting. first started with the actual shape.It has rounded corners, but is neither square nor rectangle
    The Cusheete Diamond which introduces much more light into the diamond and creates an impact that was call " Diamond Impressionism." It result in a diamond that is... breathtaking. With a radiance and dazzle like never before.


    This 63 facets twelve-sided shape is a mixed of step and brillaint cutting style. With 37 facets on crown, 14 facets on the pavillion, the Dahlia cut has the total of 51 facets . Its shape is the oval version with flat ends.
    The Dahlia Cut was originally introduced as part of a group of "Flower Cuts" by De Beers 10 years ago. All the cuts in the group were the brainchild of master Antwerp cutter Gabi Tolkowsky, who thought this new cutting technique gave the stones "maximum brillaince."   

 
 

    The EFD 's PrincessPlus Israel branded cut is an update on the classic Princess cut. A diamond fire and brillaince is a direct result of excellent cutting with 101 facets, 40 more facets than a standard Princess -cut diamond, every PrincessPlus cut diamond meets or exceeds quality standard for cut,proportion and return of light.

    EightStar diamonds are recut from previously cut diamond to display ideal optical symmetry.There are about 2000 EightStars created every year. The low number is attributed to that the fact that it takes 30 hours to recut each diamond.
    Eight Star diamonds cost about 20% more than diamonds cut to "ideal" proportions. But their stature is well-suited to customer who enjoy precision cut,unique diamonds.EighStar diamonds, when saw from below show a pattern of a distinctive eight-ray symmetical heart due to their exacting optical alignment and light return. and when viewed from above they show a fireburst pattern.
 
 

 
    Seeking a precise and brillaint new diamond shape,which resolved to "Square the Circle," using the model of a round brillaint diamond to achieve a square yet brillaint diamond cut with exacting proportions and a fine finish.
    Elara's square-cut diamond has an intense sparkle and eight symmetrical hearts. The long sides are exactly twice the length of the short sides. When viewed from above,the Elara displays two perfect squares, each running pallel to the edges of the diamond. The Elara diamond is named after the twelvth moon of Jupiter.


   
The Escada diamond features a unique 12-sided dodecagonal cut with an original geometric configuration of facets. These diamonds reflect a signature star pattern from the cutlet facet.
    Exclusively and originally cut with 97 facets,the"Escada Cut " is a 12 sided dodecagonal cut hosting a unique multiplicity and gometry of facets,cut to radiate light and fire from every angle and emitting a signature star pattern from its culet.


   
Many of greatest diamonds have passed through the Aspery & Garrard diamond workshops including the Cullinan and the Koh-I-nor.Choosing an Asprey & Garrard diamond draws on centuries of expertise.Asprey & Garrard unveiled the Eternal cut, a new diamond cut pattented worlwide and designed exclusively for Asprey & Garrard.
    Asprey & Garrard 's Eternal cut has an extraordinary brillaince that stems from 91 facets and a petal design around the cutlet base of the stone. The Eternal cut creates a softer brillaince.This design increase the complexity of light reflected through the stone.


   
This 61 facets six-sided shape is a mixed step and brillaint cutting style.with 19 facets on the crown, 36 facets on the pavillion,the Firerose Cut has the total of 61 facets( including the 6 girdle facets ),as well as unconventional angle dimensions and large polished surfaces.The bottom culet faces up through the top facet,radiating special sparkle and shine . When looking through a loupe,it looks like the petals of flower.The firerose Cut was originally introduced by De Beers 10 years ago.
 
 
 
 

    
The Gabrielle diamond is named sfter master diamond cutter Gabi Tolkowsky.Comprised of 105 facets,instead of the standard 58 facets, it is referred to as a triple-brilliant cut diamond.
    Gabrielle diamonds display greater brilliance and fire than virtually any other well-cut diamond.Gabrielle diamonds,or Gbi diamonds, come in eight shapes, including princess,heart,oval,marquise,pear,heart,emerald,carre' and the lastes innovation is the graceful cushion cut with 121 facets.


    Heart and Arrow is the particular reference to cut that guarantees brilliance. All 58 facets are cut totheir highest perfection.Only one in a million is cut to this perfect dimension.
    when looking at a Heart and Arrow cut diamond from the base,or the pavillion,with specialized magnification,one zcan see eight equal hearts arranged in a circle.If we then look at the top, or table ,we can noe see eight equal arrows arranged in a similar circle.


   
 New technology unleashes revolutionary diamond cuts, the romantic Heart On Fire diamonds,or Known as ideal cuts.
    It uses a round brilliant diamond whose facets angles are calculated mathematically and placed in perfect symmetry to provide fire.giving this stone its name are its two distinct looks that can be seen through a special gemological instrument. The table,or top of the stone , provides eight-pointed fire burst ; the base, or pavillion, a kaleidoscope of eight perfectly matched hearts.


    This 43 facets shape best accents rounds, ovals,and Flanders shapes.The Half Moon diamonds are used mainly for side stone and have the profile of half a round or half an oval diamond.
    It looks great with rectangular center stone such as princess, radiant or emerald becuase they have one straight side.Becuase of the rounded edge,it also works well with ovals shaped stones.
 
 
 
     
       
 
   
 
1. It is not unusual to find large pieces of aquamarine crystals.In 1910,a huge piece of aquamarine crystal was found in Brazil, weighing 110.5 Kg. approximately twice the weight of an average woman.
2. Therapy by stone crystal is an ancient science based on the principle that crystal embodied energy highly necessary for human bodies.
3. For more than thousand years. Chinese medication has favored minerals and gemstones for healing.As examples, amethyst powder is used to heal stomach ailments and bad dreams ; lapis lazuli relieves mucus,hyperamia congestion and convulsion; the inner pearl shell relieves fast heartbeats,giddiness and high blood pressure.
4. The Burmese believe that ruby is a sacred mineral originating from the heat and blood vessels of the earth.
5. Scientists believe that when a crystal is viewed against the light and proves not to be translucent, it means the crystal contain mineral impurities,or other chemical materials,and thus cannot transmit vibration.
6. It is the belief of gem therapist that garnet is a mineral that creates balance in the digestive system, reactivates sex inertia , or subdues an over -sexed condition, and is suitable for person indulging in unhealthy sexual activities.
7. In the Middle Ages, there was a belief that bloodstones were stones that had absorbed the blood of Jesus Christ and therefore contained inner sacred energy.
8. Pliny,the ancient Roman writer,mentioned that Cleopatra eats a valuable pearl earring with wine to show her great love of Mark Anthony.
9. Elephant tusks are emblems of purity, a favourite material for making crucifixes and prayer beads.
10. Amber when rubbed with a woolen cloth produces electricity.Amber in Greek means electron which is the origin of the word electric.
11. Hindus believe the light colorrd ruby is ideal for women, while in the dark one better suits men.
12. Thai Northeners believe that whoever owns a skin bosieng ruby will be lucky becuase of itsauspicious name, which means you cannot eat them all.
13. In ancient belief,canelian had the power to eradicate jealously and protect a person from jealous element.
14. Cleopatra,of ancient Egypt,used weird cosmentics.She paint her eyelids with bright blue powder from lapis lazuli and her lower eyelids with green with powderfrom malachite stone.She blackened her eyebrows and her eyelashes with kohl, which was powdered lead sulfate mixed with mutton fat and painted her lips and cheeks red with red ochre powder (iron ore).
15. Natural diamond s occur within the earth's shell from graphite,which is another from of carbon, as in pencil lead.

16.Pearl divers from Borneo steadfastly believe that to multiply the number os oyster shells,nine of the pearls obtained from diving must be kept in the bottle and fed with two rice gains each. To ensure that the belief will come true,the bottle must be kept tightly closed by a dead man's fingertip!
17. It was the belief of the Persians that the world sat on a huge column of sapphire,which reflected light and made the sky blue.
18. Medicine men in India used lapis lazuli,or cat's eye to treat cancer.
19. The topmost quality ruby is pigeon blood red and considered to be of higher quality and value by weight than diamond.
20. Ancient Thais calledthe limpy blemish,or light,murky strips in jade,parsly strips.
21. The Peridot gem family has only a single color,which is green,unlike other gems families that have various colors.
22. The biggest diamond in the world is in Thailand.called Karnchanapisake Diamond .It is a yellow diamond whose weight before cutting, was 545 carats.It tops the royal mace,which was prresented to His Majesty the King on the 50th Anniversary if his Ascension to the Trone.
23. In the 14 th century.It was believed that turquoise could prevent horses from getting sick from over drinking very cold water to quench their thirst.
24. In the 17th century.Willium Selmon authored a book on medicines to improves skin. He dissolved pearl in lemon juice or vinegar,mixed it with horse dung and distilled the mixture. A clear oil surfaced, but no explanation was given as to whether the potion was for external application, or drinking!
25. Diamond can be poinous.History recorded that the death of Emperor Frederic II of Germany in 1250 AD was cuased by dust of blemished diamonds; so too , was the death of Sultan Bejaset of Turkey in 1512 AD.
26. While diamond attract sin and sorrow , the opposite also holds tru, in that they can also benefit mankind.The Taylor-Burton diamond was once the cherished gift of richard burton to his wife,Elizabeth Taylor,in 1969 AD.Nine year later when they divorced,Elizbeth sold it to raise money to build hospital in Botswana.
27. The clear colored zircon appear like a diamond , so much so that it has been nicknamed Thai Diamond since olden times.
28. In jewelry therapy,it is believed that rose quartz crystal can heal pimples and brighten skins,just as well as it is reputed to heal broken hearts and an inferiority complex.
29. To ward off evils, people in china favor children wearing amulets made of small pieces of jade.
30. The Ancient Egyptains siad that peridot sparkle at night but could not be seen during the daytimes.
31. In ancient time people thought that moonstone had the shiny silver color of the waxing moon and during the waning moon they themselves shon like a moon.
32. During the 14th century.people in europe believed that the opal was a foreboding of evil and cuased bubanic plaque,the so - called Black Death.
33. In Burma and among Thai Northerners,people favor amethyst ,with a seeping body and bluish gray,known as Gelah.
34. The Cullinan Diamond ,was found in the Premiere Mine in Africa in 1905,before the cut , was nearly 10 cm. in length,6.4 cm. in height and weight3,106 carats,Its was cut into seven large diamond and 98 rose cut diamond.
35. Cullinan I was a large diamond weighing 530.2carats,that require 3 craftman working 14 hour a day for eight month to finish the cut ,before being polished and then presented
36. Collinan II weight s 317.4 carat and currently adorns the Edward crown of the United Kingdom.
37. The two remaining Cullinan diamond decorate the crown of the Queen Mary,consort of king Geoge V and daugther in -law of king Edward VII .The remaining diamond were distribute among members of the Royal Family.Queen Elizabeth II called these diamond Stone Leftover of Grandma.
38. In Sweden, to prevent car accidents,crystal and powder and spread on road made slpperry by sheet ice.
39. During the Ranaissance period ,European aristocrats favored exchange of sapphire as sign and proof of friendships,The sapphires were said to continue in good condition so long as friend ship lasted.
40. The Puebo Indains in New Maxico ,believed in the sacredness to turquoise.only men could wear them.This belief lasted into the late 17th century.
41. In the 16th century, It was fasionable for them to adorn themselves with emerald ornament in spring, rubies in summer ,sapphire or amethyst in the fall and diamonds in winter.
42. Diamond have been steadfast friends of the Jews. The Jews have suffered persecution thoughout their history and in the Middle Ages,When fleeings wars and banishment by Spain, many sold their diamond to hide their wealth and facilitate their escape.Once resettled ,they would quickly restart trading in diamond again and later on,succeeded in dominating the diamond industry.
43. Thai have found a lot of precious stone in the group of quartz, and call all of them Pong Kham irrespective of whether they are amethysts , agate, or carnelain
44. The Cadian, during the Mesopotamia period,founded the relationship among stars and gem stones as follows: Saturn related to sapphire,Jupiter to yakin , the Sun to diamond ,Mars to ruby, Venus to jade and agate, and the moon the selialite.
45. The Egyptains wrongly believed that lapis lazuli,or cat's eye , was sapphire and classified it as a sacred stone to embelish the robes of high priests.
46. Quartz has a unique characteristic of controlling radio waves, without which the present communications system would not be possible.
47. It is believed jewelry for nightwear should include turqouise,jade,jasper,tourmaline malachite and lapis lazuli,as day are cloudly in color, so reducing body movement in sleep.
48. Similarly, It is believed jewelry for daywear should include garnet,sapphire,diamond,topaz,amethyst,ruby and quartzite,as being bright jewelry,they activate the brain.
49. It was a belief among farmers in Europe that if they spread powdered quartz on their plant beds, the would br refertilized and thus help the plants to grow .They also believed that it would bring power from the stars back to earth.
50. Light ,of course,affect the color of gems.Fluorescent lamps generate bluish colors and enhance the color of sapphire .They can change the color of red rubies into red violet,or gloomy dark plum.The remedy is to observe the color of stone under daylight lamps.
51. In the middle ages, it was believed that peridot could eliminate darkness and the fear of nighttime.
52. Jet is spinel,but black sapphire is a sapphire.
53. Amethyst or light purple quartz is called french Rose.The dark tone is called Tabeal violet,whiloe the laos called it Champask violet.
54. Marco Polo's travel took him to the island of Serendib( Sri Lanka ), and his thietheenth century book of Marvels tells the story of Sinhalese king,ruby,and the Chinese Emperor Kublai Khan. The ruby was huge 4 inches and Kublai Khan offered any entire city in exchange for it.The King refused,saying that he would not give up his prize for all treasure in the world.
55. In 1916, millions Mortan Plant wanted to purchase a magnificent rope of pearl at Cartier. Thge price was $ 1 millions dollars.He proposed an exchange a piece of real estate for the necklace and Cartier agreed.In 1956 ,these magnificent pearls were auctioned and brough only $ 151,000. The real estate is Fifth Avenue landmark building that Catier still ocupier .one of the most valuable corners in New York City.
56. In the Middle Ages,the aquamarine was believed to guarantee a happy marriage and inspire mutual fidelity in newlyweds.
57. Pure Corundum is not red or blue, but a colorless, triagonal crystal with ahardness between that of emerald and diamond.
58. Citrine can fade in the sun .
59. Garnet can be found in a wide variety of colors except for blue.The most precious and widely used gem of all these families are almadine and pyrope.
60. Amethyst is a form of quartz.The majority of Quartz samples are clear, but amethyst derives it's beautiful purple appearrance due to small amounts of iron impurities in the crystal lattice.
61. Citrine become dark brown when exposed to X-rays and white when heated.
62. Trace amounts of chromium give a ruby that lovely rich red color.

63. An Emerald cut diamond is the cheapes cut.
64. The Alexandrite is famous for changing its color in a defferent light : in the daytime its color palette varies from dark-blue for emerald-green , while in the artificial light it acquires a red-purple color.
65. One of the most famous topazes Braganza (1680 carats ) implants into the Portuguese crown has been long believed to be a huge diamond.
66. In 400 AD, the methods to enhance a Pearl's color and luster required that a chicken swallow the Pearl. It was believes the chicken 's digestive system would soften the Pearl's blemishes and even the color.
67. Muslims cherished the pearl becuase they were believed to present Adam and Eve's tears,repenting their sins and resembling the tear cried by those in pain.
68. It has beeen that when Moses received the Ten Commandment they rested on tablets of tablets. The sapphire hsa historically been the most sacred gemstone of all.
69. The amethyst was the traditional stone for the Bishop's ring .When worn on the third finger of the right hand it was who is not confuse ,distracted or overwhelmed by the intense fascination of external phenomenon.
70. Since 19 th century.opal had considered as the bad luck but this was just superstition and not fact Queen Victorain helped dispel the curse on opal by giving opal jewelry to relative as wedding gifts.
71. one of the world most famous rubies aet in the Crown Jewel of English.The Timer Ruby,was presented by The East Indea company to Queen Victory as a fine ruby. Further,early inthis century ,gemological testing proved this 316 carats were actually identifind as a fine red spinel,possibly of Afganistan origin.
72. In the thirtheen century.emerald was considered an enemy of sexual passion, Albertus magnus wrote that when King Bela og Hungary passionately embraced his wife,his magnificent emerald broke into three pieces.
73. The rarest and the most valuable colored diamond are vibrant red.
74. Tourmaline have adorned the jewels of royalty.The Empress Dowager Tz'u Hsi,the last empress of China,valued the rich pink colors above all other gemstones.
75. When considering fine colored gemstone,we should compare serveral factor that affect value : cut,color,clarity,rarity and place of origin.
76. the more rare a gem,the higher the value is the belief that is false.the prindiple of supply and demand set the price.
77. Among green,gold,blue and red,red is the least common color of beryl.Red beryl is only found in one place in the world,the wah wah mountains of Utah.Emerald and aquamarine are much more popular.,but much more abundant as well.
78. Diamond is the hardest natural substance on Earth Able to withstand extreme heat, it enabled an infrared radiometer on the Pioneer space probe to operate at 450/c near the surface of the planet Venus.
79.The secret to how bird migrate over great distance is thought to be tiny crystal in thier brains.It detects the Earth ' s magnetic field.
80. Painite is the world's rarest gem,and prineless. Only three crytals have ever been foundall in Burma.
81. People in 14 th century ,Venice Italy, noticed that opals became brilliant when a wearer caught the plague.
82. The engangement ring Prince Charles gave to Diana was a blue sapphire ,not a diamond .
83. Opal is sometimes considered the Queen of Gems,becuase it encompassed the color of all other gems.
84. Ruby is aptly named the King if Gems, also know as a sister to sapphire and rarer than diamond.
85. Tourmaline is of interest to scientist becuase it changers its electrical charge when heated.It become a polarized crystaline magnet and can attract light object .This property was noticed long ago before science could explain it : in Netherlands,tourmaline were called aschentrekkers be cuase they attracted ashes and could be used ao clean pipes
86. Vodka is said to be the good diamond cleanser which produces spakling result .
87. In the 15 th century,Amethyst was believed to have many usual powers, including the ability to cure drunkeness.
88. The weight of diamond is measured in carats, The worl drives from the carob bean,which is remarkable fotr it consitent weight of 0.2g(0.007 oz) There which is remarkable for approximately 142 carats to the ounce.
89. In ancient time it was thought that rock crystal, a colorless variety of quartz, was ice that had frozen so hard it would never melt.
90. The Black Prince , son of King Edward III of england,helped Pedro the Cruel,King Castile, Spain, to win the Battle of Nejera in 1367. He was rewarded with a balas ruby, now in the British imperial state Crown.
91. During the time of the Renaissance,both ruby and sapphire had found favor with the welthy, indeed, only the wealthy could afford them.Benvonuto Cellini, writing in 1506,stated that the price of ruby was eight time that of diamond. And ruby is still generally the most valuable gemstone.
92. Alexandrite was dicovered in the UralMountains,USSR, on the birthday of Czar Alexander II in 1830,hence the name.
93. Many watches use tiny quartz crystal to control time.The crystal slice in a quartz watch vibrates more than 30,000 time each second .It is this regularity of vibration which make it a good timekeeper.
94. Agnes Sorel(c1422-1450) ,the mistress of the French King Charles VII,was the first commoner in France to break the law made by LouisIX in the 13 th century decreeding that only kings and nobles could wear diamonds.
95. During th Middle Ages,physicains viceroy of Goa. He noted that Indain slaves working in the mines swallowed diamonds in order to steal them and showed no ill effects.
96. The Tanzanite was named by Henry Platt,former Vice President of Tiffany,after its country of origin ,Tanzania.
97. The Hindus considered spinels to be rubies and divide them according to caste.The members of each of the 4 major castes should wear the appropiate stone in order to benefit its virtues: The Brahmin priestly castetrue ruby;Kshtriya-rubicelle ; Vaisya-ruby spinel;sandra-balas ruby.
98. according to Apache lore, a turquoise attached to a gun or bow would guarantee accurate aim.
99. the origin of the name topaz is unclear , but it many have been from the Greek topos,meaning land or country. Brazilains nicknamed the topaz. Pingo de Agua after water droplets.
100. Diamond are not the most expensive gemstones.