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Year 12 Issue 5 September-October 2012
DTC cuts August sight prices by roughly 8%
Stunning fashion-inspired jewellery from Wilfredo Rosado
Dynamic & determined, Avakian continues to shine
Theo Fennell’s fertile imagination displayed in latest collections
Faberg'e unveils treasured jewels for Christmas
A creative tour de force - Arido
Timeless Tiffany
Poetic talismans revealed in new collection by Va Cleef & Arpels
Nouvelle Bague's the Hammamdelle Rose
Goldsmiths' fair celebrates 30th anniversary
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  DTC cuts August sight prices by roughly 8%
 
      Diamond Trading Company (DTC) sightholders got closer to what they had been asking for, after De Beers reduced its prices by an estimated 8% at its August sight, reported Rapaport. The effect was immediate, as all the goods, estimated at US$580 million were snapped up. At the previous two sights, sightholders had rejected more than 20% of their allocations.

      According to the sightholders, the price tweaking was spread across the range of diamonds, with greater reductions in price, as much as 17%, for higher quality
goods, but more conservative for commercial quality.

      “It’s a step in the right direction,” one sightholder told Rapaport. “There’s still room for more of a correction, but De Beers said they don’t have any intention of making more adjustments.” According to the sightholder, there had previously been a 15% difference between the rough and polished prices, but that gap has now been reduced to approximately 5%.

      The DTC said it had a four-point plan for this sight to integrate the price adjustments to reflect a fair return on rough to polished in line with prevailing polished demand. “The sight seems to have been well received by all and shows our confidence in the market for the rest of the year,” said Louise Prior, the head of sightholder services and communications for DTC. “Sightholders have commented on the value in our boxes and the mood is much more upbeat this sight than previously.”
 
 
     Other sightholders that spoke with Rapaport confirmed this sentiment, with most welcoming the DTC price adjustments, hoping it will ease liquidity challenges and profit margins in the manufacturing sector.

     The other points stressed by the DTC were: De Beers’ strategy to mine according to demand; a dynamic distribution system; and a new fourth quarter US campaign by the De Beers diamond brand, Forevermark.

     The sight came on the heels of the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS). According to reports, prices were steady for low colour, SI and lower-clarity stones, while demand for higher quality stones was weak. However, it was also reported by Rapaport that Chinese buyers were making quite a few inquiries in recent weeks, which is hoped to translate to future transactions.
1) Rough diamonds from De Beers consolidated mines in South Africa    
     Despite the July and August DTC sights traditionally being the largest, Rapaport estimated that this August’s sight was 30% below that of one year ago, while the July sight was approximately 60% lower than the levels in 2011.

     Additionally, DTC year-over-year sales have dropped by roughly 23% to about US$4 billion through the seven sights thus far this year.

     August’s sight was special as it was held in Gaborone, Botswana, after the DTC transferred its aggregation division there from London.
          

 
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  Stunning fashion-inspired jewellery from Wilfredo Rosado
 
 

2) Feature diamond head white gold with Tsavorites. 18K white gold ring with 4.5 carat Tsavorites & white diamond eye
3) Honeycomb earrings, 18K Yellow gold earrings.
4) Armure black rhodium bracelet, 18K black rhodium plated gold bracelet with 11 carat white diamonds
5) A-Maze rose gold bracelet, 18K rose gold chain link bracelet with 9.20 carat rubies

 
     Wilfredo Rosado has always liked jewellery, and says that he wore it even when working with fashion icon, Giorgio Armani. The time spent there clearly had an influence on his jewellery creations, which are highly inspired by fashion, culture and modern trends.

     The exciting 2012 jewellery from Wilfredo Rosado includes the A-Mazze collection, which uses structure to unleash a minimal elegance. A labyrinth of white diamonds and rubies are knitted together with precious yellow and rose gold. The Feather collection has become synonymous with the brand , and now introduces an extension called Birds of Paradise, which celebrates the depth of flight in hues of emerald green.

     The Honeycomb series recalls a more ethereal aesthetic, with tree branches and glistening beehives echoed throughout bracelets, rings and cage chandelier earrings. The Armur collection is comprised of Wilfredo's unique floral workmanship embroidered within the diamond and gold lace. Over 1000 hours of painstakingly delicate dedication goes into each piece.
 
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  Dynamic & determined, Avakian continues to shine
 
 
6) Rainbow ring with Peridot 7) Rainbow ring with Citrine 8) Galaxy ring with Blue Topaz 9) Galaxy ring with Kunzite
       Establishing its first boutique in Beirut in 1969, Avakian grew rapidly under the determined ambition of Edmond Avakian. Despite a raging civil war, the young
jeweller remained steadfast and grew the company into a glamorous, highly sought after brand with international offices and exciting collections of jewellery.

     The Rainbow collection stands out with its vivid colours and takes inspiration from a varied palette. Swirls of colourful semi-precious stones shine against a backdrop of 18K yellow, white or rose gold. A dizzying variety of stones are used, including diamonds of various colours, sapphire, emerald, ruby, citrine, tourmaline, amethyst, green peridot, fire opal, blue topaz, rubellite tourmaline and mandarin garnet. With such an amazing set of stones, it’s little wonder the collection oozes vibrancy.

     Flowing like a glittering stream, the Riviera collection incorporates interchangeable parts to suit one’s fancy. Pearls or pavés or gemstones cascade from a volute of diamonds like drops of water dripping from a glittering chandelier. The set is inspired by the lightness of water with the energy of a shimmering wave, and comes available as earrings, a double necklace, single necklace, or ring.

     Avakian’s celestial creations go under the name of the Galaxy collection. Inspired by the powerful forces and infinite beauty of the cosmos, the Galaxy collection takes you on a radiant journey amongst the stars. Like little planets of shimmering light orbiting around the contours of your body, the gemstone cabochons add their sparkle to the glittering diamonds.
 
10) Riviera necklace with pearls 11) Riviera earrings with turquoise 12) Riviera necklace with jade 13) Riviera ring with pearls
 
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  Theo Fennell’s fertile imagination displayed in latest collections
 
  14) 18K white yellow & rose gold, blue topaz & diamond sealife ring 15) 18K white gold, citrine, blue topaz, tourmaline, sapphire & diamond Aquatic earrings 16) 18K yellow gold, emerald tear drop & diamond Rainforest Frog drop earrings 17) 18K yellow & rose gold, green tourmaline & diamond Secret Chinese Garden ring
       Intelligent, witty design and exceptional craftsmanship are the cornerstones of Theo Fennell’s philosophy, which results in remarkably fresh and imaginative jewellery. Each piece reflects the idea that jewellery should be original, beautifully crafted and designed with immaculate attention to detail and handcrafted in the company’s London workshop.

     Theo Fennell’s newest collections are, once again, highly creative works. The Chinese Secret Garden ring is an exquisitely made, engraved work of art. The beautifully crafted doors either side, open to reveal perfectly enamelled scenes of traditional Chinese gardens.
 
  18) 18K white gold, blue topaz & diamond Koi Carp pendant 19) 18K yellow gold, African green tourmaline & diamond Rainforest pendant 20) 18K yellow gold, green beryl & diamond Rainforest Opening ring 21) 18K yellow gold, green beryl & diamond Rainforest Opening ring
       The Rainforest collection pays homage to the earth’s oldest living ecosystem and its exotic and rare species including the beautiful frogs. The hand-engraved ring
opens to reveal a miniature gold tree frog perched on a branch. The pendant is fashioned from 18K gold and decorated with handcrafted gold tropical foliage.

     Under the Sea is inspired by the magical underwater world and includes a stunning aquatic, crafted from 18K gold with a vivid 44.87-carat topaz surrounded by diamonds. The delicate drop earrings are bursting with nautical charm, replete with diamonds, sapphires and crafted from 18K rose and white gold.
 
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  Faberg'e unveils treasured jewels for Christmas
       There's great variety in Faberge's latest collection of treasured jewels. Which effuse with the colours of Christmas. From purists to sentimentalists, fashionistas to children, there's a jewel for everyone.

     The Collier Pur is an interpretation of the iconic Faberge egg pendant translated into a chic, contmporary lariat-style necklace. The twin egg charms are suspended from a yellow gold and white diamond chain and an crafted from opalescent shades of iridescent pearl, prune or amaranthine enamel using Faberge's signature artistic enameling technique.
       For sentimentalists, Faberge presents Les Emaux Impereaux, a collection of enhanting egg charms, each entirely unique, in opalescent shades of deep crimson, forest green and golden creme. Embellished with white diamonds and employing Faberge's guilloche enamelling technique, these miniature treasures bring a fresh, contermporary glamour to a much-loved, iconic jewel. For a sentimental keepsake, the pendants can be engraved with personal messages.
 
  22) Ouef Spirale in white gold; Ouef Sapphia prune, set in 18K white & rose gold; Ouef Saphie rouge, set in 18K white & yellow gold; Ouef Saphie rouge, set in 18K white & yellow gold
23) Oeuf Olga vetermeraude, set in 18K white & yellow gold with round diamonds.
       The sleek Matelasse meanwhite is just right for fashion darlings and offers new designs for Christmas including the wide band statement ring with a contemporary quitted motif. The luscious cushions of white, yellow or rose gold are fabulously sculpted, and studded with diamonds or multi-coloured gems.

     The Solyanka cocktail rings go one step further, being crafted from extraordinary coloured gemstones: deep red Burmese spinel; sky blue sapphire; intense fire opal; and mesmerising green emerald, all set in white diamonds and platinum. These exuberant statement rings are dazzling treasures to pass from generation to generation.
 
24) Solyanka cabochon emerlad ring. Emerald & white round diamonds set in platinum 25) Bandeau Matelasse ring
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  A creative tour de force - Arido
 
     Arido creates fine art jewellery using only the highest quality gems and precious metals sourced from across the globe. The exclusive jewellery line was created when the creative forces of Arid Chappell and jewellery specialist Jesse Raphael came together.

     As a successful fashion designer and international stylist, Arid Chappell had already been turning heads for the past 25 years, gracing the red carpets of such prestigious premieres as the Emmys and the Oscars, and more, dressing up A-list stars. He then teamed up with Jesse Raphael, who comes from a family of jewellers dating back to the 11th century.      
 
  26) Arido 18K yellow gold with kunzite & diamonds 27) Adams & Arido 18K yellow gold with coloured diamonds 28) Adams & Arido 18K white gold with emerald & diamonds
29) Arido black tahitan pearl with 18K yellow gold
       The exciting line was first launched at the Ritz Carlton in Tokyo in December 2010. Later unveillings happened at New York Fashion Week. The Oscars in California, and the Arido Party Launch in New York City. More recently, Arido Jewelry embarked on a global international launch in China. A recent collaboration with Sam Salama from Adams Jewelry has resulted in the Adams & Arido line.

     These are timeless hand-crafted pieces to treasure, giving clients the latest trend setting designs in high fashion jewellery and mystique.   
 
  30) Arido Trio of earrings 31) Arido carved aquamarine with 18K yellow gold & diamonds 32) Adams & Arido 18K yellow gold with ruby & coloured diamonds 33) Arido 18K yellow gold with amethyst & coloured diamonds
 
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  Timeless Tiffany
 
     Tiffany & Co. celebrated its 175th anniversary in 2012, and with it came a number of new collections, each displaying the superior craftsmanship and exquisite jewels that have made the brand so renowned throughout the years.

     The Tiffany Enchant collection is basedon the symmetrical and ornate patterns of traditional 19th-century garden gates. Similar to these wrought iron masterpieces, the collection provides a frame through which nature's beauty can be viewed, The Enchant bangles, as with the other pieces in the set, trace the opuience of formal gardens with exquisite white diamonds, hand cut and set in platinum and 18K rose gold.
 
  34) Tiffany flower bracelet with Tsavorites, yellow & white diamonds & spessartites in 18K gold 35) Tiffany Enchant diamond bangles. Wide diamond bangle in platinum & 18K rose gold & Scroll diamond bangle in platinum 36) Tiffany pink diamond flower ring in platinum & 18K rose gold.
 
  37) Tiffany earrings with morganite briolettes & diamonds in platinum 38) Tiffany earrings with Oval tsavorites & diamonds in platinum 39) Tiffany pendant with blue Agate, Tsavorites & diamonds set in platinum 40) Tiffany pink & white diamond flower bracelet set in platinum & 18K rose gold
        Other collections feature gemstones that Tiffany introduced to the world, In 1974, Tiffany christened and debuted tsavorite, a rare type of green garnet found in Tsavo National Park near the border of Kenya and Tanzania. The stone is revered for its intensety rich colour and invigorating spirit.      

     A devoted Tiffany customer and gem collector, John Pierpont Morgan, had a shimmering pink stone discovered in Madagascar, named after him. In 1910, Tiffany introduced morganite to the world. Primarity Tiffany has become famed for its diamonds, and these are showcased fabulously in various newer pieces.

All images © Tiffany & Co.
 
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  Poetic Talismans revealed in new collection by Van Cleef & Arpels
      Van Cleef & Arpels celebrates the benign forces of luck in its latest collection, the Palais de la chance. Drawing inspiration from stories and motifs throughout the ages, the famous Maison has created sets of jewellery based on three themes: Your lucky star; Lucky-charm nature; and Lucky legends.

     While embarking on new creative territory, each piece also retains the edge of excellence that the jeweller has become famous for. Patented techniques that have become a signature of the brand, such as the Mystery Setting, or the Zip necklace, present themselves in the collection once again though with a subtle metamorphosis.
 
  41) Lucky star : Au fill de la chance ring. White gold, pink gold turquoise, diamonds, Mandam garnets, tsavorite garnets, yellow & blue sapphires & double-sided black opal
42) Lunaria, Lucky-charm nature clip. White gold, diamonds & white mother-of-pearl.
43) Lucky-charm nature:Muguet clip, Platinum, diamonds & emeralds
44) Lucky legends : Heket long earrings, White gold, fire opal beads, diamonds, onyx & yellow sapphires.
 
     " Your lucky star" looks to the heavens for its collective muse, where diamonds and gems rival one another for outright beauty. In these piece, lightness, movement and femininity reign supreme.

     "Lucky-charm nature" returns to earth, where various flora and fauna have been given form in the jeweller's workshop. In the earthly garden, animals, flowers and plants interweave and sing the praises a multitude of lucky charms in this terrsetrial delight.

     "Lucky legends" sets out on a historical voyage, reinterpreting the lucky symbols that fill our collective conscious. Oriental and Far-Eastern styles of the past are given new life, while captivating the imagination. These benign creatures, goddesses, dragons and flowers perpetuate the tradition of poetry and enchantment of Van Cleef & Arpels.
 
 

41) Lucky legends :Everlasting light short earrings: White gold, diamonds, onyx, tourmalines, yellow gold & Mandarin garnets
42) Lucky-charm nature: Coccinelle mystereuse clip, white gold, diamonds onyx, black spinels, yellow sapphires, red gold & mystery set rubies.
43) Lucky Star : Sept Etolles necklace. Platinum, 7 cushion-cut Kashmir sapphires & round, baguette-cut pear-shaped & rose-cut diamonds
44) Lucky-charm nature: Hirondelles necklace & detachable clip, white gold, diamonds, emeralds, tsavorite, garnets, onyx, black lacquer, grey-cultured pearls, chrysoprase beads & a Brazilian emerald-cut pink tourmaline

 
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  Nouvelle Bague's the Hammamdelle Rose
 
     The story of a dream, the wondering of an idea, the most precious expression of imagination on a journey through renaissance atmospheres with the whim of fashion on the move, between the past and future, are all presented and enamels, precious materials, and stones trace subtle signs of Nouvelle Bague.

 
 

49) The Hammamdelle Rose ring 50) The Hammamdelle Rose ring 51) The Hammamdelle Rose ring 52) The Hammamdelle Rose rings

 
  53) The Hammamdelle Rose earrings 54) The Hammamdelle Rose earrings 55) The Hammamdelle Rose bangle 56) The Hammamdelle Rose bangle
 
 
     With the shades of mother-of-pearl, together with red and blue tones, the Hammamdelle Rose collection conveys an oriental touch. A true innovation features glamorous diamonds and precious gold enriched with sapphires and rubies, while the enamel tones soften the jewelry, yet add sparkle to each piece. Being part of a leading italian jewels group, Florence's jewelry-making tradition and the heritage of its founder Leopoldo Poliare are embedded in every Nouvelle Bague item, as always.
  57-58 The Hammamdelle Rose pendant
 
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  Goldsmiths's Fair celebrates 30th anniversary
 
     First taking place in 1983, this autumn is the Goldsmiths' Fair Pearl Anniversary. For three decades working as one of the gems in the contemporary design calendar, beloved by designer-makers and collectors alike, the Goldsmith's Fair has maintained its high profile in supporting the trade as the Goldsmith's Company has been doing for more than 700 years. The fair today is the ultimate showcase of what is up-to-the-minute in the world of contemporary jewellery and silver.

     More than 180 jewellers and silversmiths present their latest designs and collection during a period of two weeks. Jewellery and silver for every occasion and in a wide variety of styles and permeations, each hand-made piece reflects the unique creativity and artistic personality of the individual designer-maker working in precious metal.

 
  59) Designed by Leyla Abadollahi 60) Designed by Ornella Lannuzzi 61) Designed by Yen 62) Designed by Janice Zethraeus
       From the breathtaking red-carpet creations by jewellers such as Ingo Henn, Alison Bradley, Lilly Hastedt ,and David Marshall, set with exquisite gemstones, to the quirky silver jewels inspired by microsopic cell life by Sarah Parker-Eaton and the flamboyant encrusted statement jewels of recent graduate Maud Traon.

     In the year of the fair's "Pearl" anniversary, an abundance of beautiful spherical beads made up of lustrous layers of minute crystals of calcium carbonate that develop in living tissue of an oyster into exquisite natural jewels, will be presented, from the classic creations of Eric N Smith, and Jan Sarginson, as well as less traditional but equally exciting piecesby Catherine Mannheim, Yen, Jesper Velling, and Jane Adam.
 
  63) Designed by Polly Wales 64) Designed by Mikala Djorup 65) Designed by Moud Traon 66) Designed by Wright & Tea gue
 
     One of the special aspects of the fair is being able to meet the designers themselves. This gives an insight into the whole is rarely achievable when buying off the peg from a shop. The whole experience is therefore more personal and comes with added value, while commissioning a new piece takes the process to an even more intimate and satisfying level.

     The fair has not only been a platform for the most acclaimed independent designer-makers on the scene, but has reached out to find emerging young talent, to support and foster the development of young craftspeople. The contacts, relationships, knowledge, and the sales made during the Fair are invaluable and provide these young rising stars with a major boost at a critical moment in their careers.

     No one visiting the fair can fair to be impressed by the sheer breadth of variety, talent and superlative craftsmanship on display. Goldsmiths' Fair'12 will be held during two weeks, on 24 to 30 September, and 2 to 7 October, 2012 at Goldsmith's Hall, London.
 
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