|
Prix Golay
2004 awards presented at BaselWorld
The
Prix Golay 2004 is the 20th edition of the contest of jewelry creation
for young goldsmiths. Over the years, professionals at the beginning
of their careers have contributed unconventional and often surprising
creations in this competition to the evolation of jewelry design.
The unique pieces have fascinated and inspired jewelry professionals
and jewelry lovers at exhibitions around the globe.
The theme of this year's contest was
"Pearls for the Twentieth!" The participants' mandate
was to create, with two baroque South Sea pearls, a present for
a twentieth birthday. The challenge has been particularly motivating
for the young professional participants, who are all in their twenties
themselves. They had the privillage of conceiving a present to their
very own liking. The result is a wide range of unusual creations.
|
|
| |
Left to right - The Grand Prize -
- creation by Milena Ruegg, Goldschmied Wipf in Wil, Gewerbliche
Berufsschule St. Gallen - - This award winning bracelet is reversible,
alternating convex and concave shapes. The white and black pearls
move together to show up alternately. An impressive finish makes
it pleasurable to touch the bracelet. The shape emphasizes the quality
of the design.
- The special Prize of the Jury ex
aequo - - creation by allan Dovat, Ecole technique de la Vallee
de Joux, Le Sentier - - The pearls are able to seduce without any
ambient light. This is possible thanks to the surgical achievement
of installing fiber optical conductors in the heart of the pearls.
The ingenious introduction of artificial light from a tiny electrical
source makes the pearls blink with blue, yellow, green and red light,
creating sort of an intimate disco ambiance. |
|
| |
All designs from
the contest were presented at the recent BaselWorld 2004 show,
with the award ceremony taking place at Basel's Convention Center.
The pieces entered
in the contest were created single-handedly by each participant,
from the original idea to the design, the crafting and the finishing
touch. Many went on to invent a matching container or packaging.
thus adding originality to the gift's presentation. The professionals
on the jury were thrilled to discover a wealth of ideas and innovation.
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
(1). The Conceptual Prize
- - creation by Keren Perret, Ecole d'art des Montagnes neuchateloises
in La Chaux-de-Fonds - - A great variety of rings can be composed
with this set of interchangeable elements. It is an ideal way for
the wearer to express various whims and moods. the idea and presentation
are so clear that the attribution of the Conceptual Prize seems
obvious.
(3). The Special Prize of the Jury,
ex aeque - - creation by Claudia Sturzenegger, Goldschmiede-Atelier
Lorenz Benovici in Bad Ragz, Gewerbliche Berufsschule St.Gallen
- - Classay, cool looking South Sea pearls add value to a piece
of great versatlity. This accessory can be worn by a woman or a
man, in any environment, fashionable or otherwise.
(4). The Technical Prize - - creation
by Julia Pfistere, Goldschmiede-Atelier Peter Gschwend in Basel,
Allgemeine Gewerbeschule Basel - - The design makes two presents
in one - - a desktop calendar and an original bangle. The key merit
is that it is a technical device and also an accessory. Hands can
feel the smooth touch of rotation as they set the date, and eyes
see the beauty of the design and the South Sea pearls that serve
as markers. |
|
| |
|
|
| |
GIA Gem Laboratory
to issue standard "Heat Treatment" disclosure on reports
for Blue Sapphires with unusual color concentrations
When, early in 2003, gemologists from
the GIA and AGTA laboratories first noticed unusual color concentrations
in a number of heat-treated blue sapphires, they were concerned
that this might be a new form of treatment (figure 1-3). In response,
they launched an intensive, months-long research project that involved
detailed documentation of many samples using standard gemological
instrumentation and highly advanced analytical techniques, as well
as two trips to Sri Lanka to visit the proprietor of the heating
process and conduct heating experiments to understand better the
color-causing mechanisms behind the ususual concentrations. The
results required a fresh look at the changes that take place within
the crystal lattice when sapphires are exposed to various heatings
conditions, and a reevaluation of hoe the GIA laboratory considers
and discloses heat treatment on its corundum reports. |
|
| |
|
|
| |
Hundreds
of non-heated and heated blue sapphires were involved in this research,
including several different types of geuda, the colorless to white
or pale blue starting material. Numerous tests were conducted to
compare the inner blue color concentrations and the outer decolorized
regions of the suspect stones. These included focused ultraviolet
/ visible / near-infrared and mid-infrared spectroscopic studies,
as well as hundred of highly sensitive chemical analyses involving
LA-ICP-MS and SIMS techniques (focusing on 65 different elements;
figure 4). In addition, during the course of two research trips
to Sri Lanka to investigate the specific heating process, more than
20 samples were analyzed before and after heat treatment to document
to document the charges that took place. |
|
| |
As
a result of this extensive research, GIA has concluded that
the color phenomenon observed in these stones is a product
of the specific heating regimen used by Mr. Punsiri Tennakoon
of Punsiri Gems, Ratnapura, Sri Lanka. We have found no
evidence of intentional or inadvertent diffusion of elements
from an outside source that would require special disclosure
on our gemstone reports. Therefore, blue sapphires that
have indications of heat treatment, as well as characteristics
and properties similar to the stones examined during this
research project, will be disclosed with the standard heat-treated
comment and read as follows on a GIA Gem Laboratory identification
report: |
|
|
Figure
2 : In immersion, these heated blue sapphires reveal unusual,
billowy color concentrations. Also indicative of this phenomenon,
a norrow near-colorless boundary follows the contours of
the inner blue color concentration. photo by Elizabeth Schrader. |
|
Natural sapphire, weight Comments: Evidence
of heat treatment is present.
Now,
more than ever, GIA is committed to the colored stone industry
and to addressing serious trade issues as they unfold. The
GIA research team will continue to study the vartious color
varieties of corundum and the effects of heat and other
treatments in their ongoing efforts to refine disclosure
nomenclature and anticipate future developments that might
affect the corundum trade.
|
|
Figure
3: Commonly these unusual color concentrations also display
a scalloped edge at the boundary with the colorless region.
Note, however, that the parallel growth planes extend across
both the inner and outer color zones without interruption,
except that the color becomes abruptly or less saturated.
Photomicrograph by Shane McClure.
Figure 4 : One hundred and
eighty-seven spot analyses were taken by LA-ICP-MS to map
the full chemical composition of this sample. No systematic
chemical variation was recoeded between the inner blue color
concentration and the outer decolorized region. Photo by
Wuyi Wang. |
|
|
|
|
Prix Golay 2004 Awards presented at BaselWorld... 
