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Purpose of setting to hold the gemstone secure in place
and protect possible damages trough the wearer from
depend on the type and shape of gemstones and
determinant by the design of object or jewelry the stone
are set.There are 6 main technics of setting
1. Prong
2. Bezel
3. Gypsy
4. Channel
5. Pavee
6. Invisible
There are newer technics:
Tension.
General setting rules.
a. Facetted, transparent stones In order to
show the
beauty (fire,color,brilliancy ),the gemstone depend on
light entering the stone and reflecting back to the facets
underneath the stone. The surface should be open,to
let light in from below.(For opaque stone it is not
required).
b. The prongs,should not go over 1/3 of the
crown-
facets.
c. By channel setting the gold should be trimmed
over
the stone, just to hold the stone in place, but not
cover too much from the lower crownfacets.There
should be no gap between each stone (touch) in
the channel.
d. The thickness of the material for
the bezel, should harmoniose(support) with the size of
stone, but not get the attention of the viewers eye. The edge of
the bezel should be tapered just enough to hold the
stone in place.
e. By pavee setting the stone
should be set , that there is no gap between
the stones and the prong which are shared with the neighbor stone. (to show
less metal).
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